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You could have any number of defects causing this problem.
If the starter works when you short across the relay, it's clearly not that, but it cloud be the relay itself, which is not uncommon. You can test to see if the relay is engaging by supplying electrical power to the smaller positive connecter on the relay using a piece of wire direct from the battery. If that works your problem is in the electrical supply from the starter switch, which is usually part of the ignition switch. For example, if you engage the start position with the ignition on, you should get an electrical voltage at the small terminal on the starter solenoid that you previously shorted with the bit of wire. The starter circuit will be protected by a fuse or circuit-breaker, if the problem is with the electrical supply to the solenoid/relay then you need to check the starter fuse or circuit breaker. If the fuse looks intact you need to check it with a meter as looks can be deceiving. If the fuse checks out as good then the problem is either the starter switch failing to make a good contact or a break in the wire between the switch and the solenoid/relay.
If you decide to check the starter switch, it is not uncommon to find a voltage at the switch but due to bad or dirty contacts in the switch, insufficient electrical current will pass to engage the solenoid/relay. This will of course be the same when you check for electrical supply to the relay, that is why you need to try to engage the relay with a remote bit of wire. Unless you can dismantle the switch and clean the contacts you may need a new switch. So, check the wire from the switch to the relay. If you remove the small positive wire at the relay and attach your remote power supply to the end of the wire, taking care to insulate the connection to prevent it shorting on anything else, you should get an electrical power reading on your meter at the start switch. If you don't you have a broken wire or connection. Sometimes it's easier to run a new wire and isolate the old one, if this is the case and you can't find an obvious break in the connection. Rgs. Bob
You have a short somewhere in electrical system of truck that is slowly draining battery. When battery is too low, cranking speed and voltage is too low to operate electrical system to allow fuel etc to start truck. First make sure dome light is not staying on after you close door. Sometimes a kneecap hits the dash switch that turns on domelight. Second make sure battery is FULLY charged. Have auto store check battery to see if it is fully charging. At same time they will check to see if alternator is not malfunctioning and charging correct amount. Replace as needed. If all checks out OK...Third, get an amp meter, remove negative battery cable. Attach one probe to the negative cable and other to negative post on Battery. Turn amp meter on. It should read zero. If reads anything it is showing you have short in system. With meter hooked up this way(I use radiator clamps to secure probes to post and cable) Start pulling fuses first, one at a time, then relays in fuse box to until meter goes to zero. When goes to zero you have found the circuit. Look at fuse box picture in owners manual that came with truck. Replace relay or relay connected to the circuit shown in manual. For instance if fuse you pulled to make it go to zero...says it is for wipers and windows...look at manual diagram and locate and replace relay for wiper or windows one at a time, then check amp meter to see if battery drain continues...If you can't locate source of problem you have at least identified circuit. You can get all data schematics at library from ALLDATA free....then try to track down further...if not able to do yourself take to GOOD auto shop that does electrical work. OR.....buy at hardware, auto parts store or Wal Mart....Red wire at least 6ft long. one Toggle switch, get inline fuse connector and a matching fuse that matches the fuse you pulled out that makes amp meter go to zero( If 5 amp, get tubular 5 amp fuse for inline connector)...buy electrical wire connectors kit. Make two 3 ft long wires. Put connector onto both wires and screw tight onto toggle switch. Now cut one wire in half and splice inline fuse onto that wire with connectors. Next make a one prong connector for each end of wire. Carefully make it so you can plug one connector of wire into the left side of where fuse used to plug into fuse box. Then plug in other wire into right side of where fuse use to connect when plugged into fuse box. use electrical tape if need be so they cannot short across these two wires. Check with amp meter on neg cable and negative batt post to see if meter shows drain. If shows drain... simply switch toggle switch off. Meter should be at zero with toggle switch one way, then shows drain with other. Secure wires with plastic tie straps electrical tap, and duct tape the toggle switch to lower dash board area you can reach while driving. If your wipers or windows etc, aren't working with switch shutting off drain, simply turn on when needed and shut off when you park truck. Recheck with amp meter again when all secure...Good luck all!
Both front electric windows are fed from relay T40 in the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment therefore if one window works its not a relay problem. Check fuses F85 & F86 in same box and if OK could be a faulty window motor, faulty window switch, faulty wiring or a faulty body computer(unlikely)
If its electric.. check for fuses blown? Automatic window motor atleast making noises?? If fuse isnt blown or window motor doesnt make noise it could be broken wire inside the door.if the motor makes noise (clicking noises with no movement) could need replacement. The window might have slipped out of the guides..check owners manual for fuse location.."haynes manuals" sells some good books on how to replace parts on automotives. U will find detailed info there.they can also be found online or for sale in Canadian tire or places like that.
You first have to determine if the problem is being caused by an electrical problem or a mechanical problem. To do this, the electrical circuits to the window must be tested or use other clues such as the window motor making noise when the button is pushed to eliminate the electrical circuit. If the electrical circuit is working, then the problem is mechanical and the door will have to be disassembled to find the exact cause (most likely a bad motor or broken window regulator).
hi, there is a relay for the windows. in the fusebox (s) there should be a relay for each window. these relays do fail (open circuit on switch side). the feed POWER side may be shorted. these circuits are hard to find the fault, but check all the door relays. the motor can stick and put heavy current to blow the fuse, if you leave the engine OFF and put the ignition ON press the other window and listen for this relay noise. a click can be heard to pinpoint the location of other relays. once you find these switch relays to determin if these are working and use this to put the rear window back up. gerry
hey kempster_rob the problem is in the wiring between the doors and the body, the wiring is short and is constructed wrong, so when you after 3000 openings and closings the wires brakes and either loose connection or makes shortcuts between the different cables causing fuse blows and disrupted working electrical system. Solution is to open the isolation around the cables and either repair them or displace them, its possible to buy a repair kit at the peugeot dealer