Question about 2001 Honda Accord

1 Answer

All dash lights spontaneously come on. Go off in steps as decelerate. Off at stop. Come back on as accelerate.

2001 LX V-6. 98000. Just passed inspection in NYC. Average 26 MPG on highway. Good machine. As riding lights spontaneously on. Shows all doors open, air bag lights on, oil light on, etc., all indicators light. Car continues to operate well. As decelerate by removing foot from gas, lights begin to go out and are finally all out at stop. As begin to accelerate lights begin to come back on until all indicators are active. Car still running as if nothing is wrong.

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  • clarkastillm
    clarkastillm Jan 20, 2013

    This was the ultimate solution. Many thanks.

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  • Honda Expert
  • 284 Answers

Bad voltage regulator in alternator or short somewhere. Sounds like voltage regulator or belt slipping and not allowing alternator to work properly

Posted on Jan 18, 2013

  • clarkastillm
    clarkastillm Jan 18, 2013

    Thanks for the rapid response. We'll know tomorrow when I take it in and first wait to hear what my shop says it might be and if they miss this, tell it to them. Thanks again.

  • clarkastillm
    clarkastillm Jan 20, 2013

    This was the ultimate solution.

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SOURCE: 2002 honda civic battery indicator light

hi it the regulator which is in the alternator get a new reulator and replace or the complete alternator yates210456

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SOURCE: 2001 Honda Crv Bake light on dash is on

make sure your emergency brake is off all the way.

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SOURCE: transmission downshifts erroneously

Sounds like the computer that controls the transmission.....but don't just go buy one because there is a diagnostic route.I just worked on two of those earlier this year,and the computer can drive you crazy.92 is pre OBD 2 or OBD anything,codes are pulled from the car manually.Passenger side interior,front kick panel.Remove the kick panel,locate BLUE colored TWO WIRE connector.It isnt connected to anything.Take a paper clip or wire,bend in a U,insert into connector.Turn the ignition switch on,engine off.This throws the trans computer into self diagnostic mode.Count the number of times...on the dash...the "S" light flashes.This is the code number.Now you look up the code number on a code chart.If there are NO CODES,the "S" light just comes on for 2 seconds when you turn the ignition on,then the "S" light goes back out.Thats normal operation,no codes.If no codes,you are back to square one.Welcome to code diagnostics.Remove paper clip.IF,there are any codes,they must be identified on a code chart,as a diagnostic trouble code for say...the shift solenoids,is a definite solution to this problem.Honda trans's are problematic on solenoids,shift and line pressure.So,check for codes,diagnose any codes and repair them.If no codes,or codes have been repaired,and the same symptom still persists,then it's time to look at the computer,or PCM.The PCM is located either under the carpet on the passenger side front,near the firewall,or under one of the front seats.Remove the PCM,take to a clean bench,and dissasemble.Remove outer cover and look,don't touch,look for a capacitor that may have exploded.I had very similar problems on one....the gear selector indicator would indicate Park and Overdrive....AT THE SAME TIME,when actually in Overdrive,and the car would failsafe to 3rd gear.It was a bad PCM,but did not see an exploded capacitor inside that one.Good Luck...Hondas,gotta love em.

Posted on Jul 09, 2008

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SOURCE: Cruise control just doesn't respond

Could be a blown fuse, or it could be a faulty sensor switch , either on the brake or excelorater.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

philschneide
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SOURCE: 2000 accord ex w/ 4 cylinder engine. The light

The D4 indicator light flashing indicates that your car's computer believes that there is something wrong with your transmission.

This is what the manual for your 2000 Accord says:

The "D4" indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). If it flashes while driving (in any shift position), it indicates a possible problem in the transmission. Avoid rapid acceleration and have the transmission checked by an authorized Honda dealer as soon as possible.

Sometimes this will mean that you are simply low on transmission fluid, but you really should have it checked.

Hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 05, 2010

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Take extra caution while performing dirve cycles on public roadways. Drive cycles can be difficult to follow under normal driving conditions. Begin by: - Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. - Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above will set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog test.

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Cant get passed by emission test. No codes are coming up but someone keeps saying evap system Catalytic converter, fuel pump, gas cap. O2 sensor has been replaced . Also eating alot of gas. Engine light...


You have to do a drive cycle, the fuel tank has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank of fuel, can not be above or below this fuel level.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50ºC (122ºF) and within 6ºC (11ºF) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

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Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

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Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

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Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

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8. Decelerate
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1997 Honda Civic did not pass smog due to O2 sensor heater fault failure, sensor 1, bank 1. If I replace the sensor, how do I get the check engine light reset?


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disconnecting the battery for one minute will also remove the code.BUT
if your smog test uses an OBD scan as part of the process,then there will be a problem,because the monitors will not have been set,as they are reset if the battery is disconnected..
most tests allow only one monitor missing,and not the catalyst .
A drive cycle will have to be done to set the monitors.
Typically cold start coolant temp less than 50F,idle for 2 minutes no air condition, accelerate at half throttle to 50mph then drive 3 minutes with a/c on at 50mph steady.decelerate to 10mph without using brakes..Accelerate to 60mph and drive for 5 minutes at steady speed without a/c
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drive in 3rd gear or overdrive off with rpm 3000 for 1 minute.
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decelerate without braking to 10mph.
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