Question about 1998 Plymouth Voyager

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I found a chaine that is broken right underneath the oil pump. I'm not sure what it is. Is it part of the whole oil pump assembly or something else

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It could be the timing chain broken

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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2002 bmw 530 I oil pump located


Your oil pump is located inside the oil pan but is part of the chain assembly. The first picture is with the oil pan removed and the engine upside down (the red arrow) the second is right side up red arrow pointing to the oil pump. That gear with the chain on it is left handed thread when removing and installing. Hope this helps....

10_28_2012_5_46_56_pm.jpg10_28_2012_5_47_12_pm.jpg

Oct 28, 2012 | 2002 BMW 5 Series

2 Answers

Need timing gear marks for 2004 Kia Sadona 3.5L engine



Removal & Installation

3.5L Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Record the radio anti theft code data.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Engine cover Accessory drive belts Idler pulley Crankshaft pulley Power steering pump pulley Belt tensioner pulley Upper and lower timing belt covers
  4. Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the engine mount.
  5. Rotate the engine to align the camshaft sprocket timing marks with the cylinder head cover timing marks.

    0996b43f8022cb71.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Timing belt routing and timing marks-3.5L Engine

  6. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Auto tensioner Timing belt

    0996b43f8022cb72.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Timing belt and related components-3.5L Engine


To install:
  1. Ensure that the engine is set to Top Dead Center (TDC).
  2. Prepare the auto tensioner for installation by compressing it in a vise and installing a retaining pin.
  3. Install the timing belt in the following order:
    1. Crankshaft sprocket
    2. Idler pulley
    3. Left bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
    4. Left bank intake camshaft sprocket
    5. Water pump pulley
    6. Right bank intake camshaft sprocket
    7. Right bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
    8. Tensioner pulley

  4. Install the auto tensioner. Do not remove the retaining pin at this time.
  5. Check that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks are aligned correctly.
  6. Rotate the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn Counterclockwise .
  7. Rotate the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn Clockwise to return the engine to TDC.
  8. Loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt.
  9. Apply 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) torque to the tensioner pulley as shown and tighten the center bolt to 32-41 ft. lbs. (43-55 Nm).

    0996b43f8022cb73.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Adjusting the tensioner pulley-3.5L Engine

  10. Remove the auto tensioner retaining pin.
  11. Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions Clockwise , then wait 5 minutes for the auto tensioner to adjust.
  12. Measure the auto tensioner rod as shown. If the measurement is not 3.8-4.5 mm, then repeat the belt tensioning procedure.

    0996b43f8022cb74.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Measuring the auto tensioner rod-3.5L Engine

  13. When the auto tensioner measurement is correct, install or connect the following:

    Engine mount Upper and lower timing belt covers Belt tensioner pulley Power steering pump pulley Crankshaft pulley Idler pulley Accessory drive belts Engine cover Negative battery cable
  14. Reprogram the radio anti theft codes.

    Kia_Sedona_2002-2006
    Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover & Seal

    Print


    Removal & Installation

    3.8L Engine

    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
    2. Record the radio anti theft code data.
    3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
    4. Remove the drive belt. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the air conditioning compressor.
    5. Remove the alternator. Remove the drive belt idler. Remove the drive belt tensioner. Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the intake manifold.
    6. Remove the connector bracket from the left cylinder head cover. Disconnect the right ignition coil connector, condenser connector and remove the bracket.
    7. Remove the left cylinder head cover retaining bolts. Remove the cylinder head cover from the engine.
    8. Remove the right cylinder head cover retaining bolts. Remove the cylinder head cover from the engine.
    9. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing mark T of the lower timing chain cover.
    10. Check that the mark of the camshaft timing sprockets are in straight line positioning on the cylinder head surface. If not rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Do not rotate the engine counterclockwise.
    11. Remove the oil pan. Remove the crankshaft damper pulley. Remove the timing chain cover.
      NOTE Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the cylinder block, cylinder head and timing chain cover. Before removing the timing chain, mark the right and left timing chains with an identification mark based on the location of the sprocket because the identification mark on the chain for TDC can be erased.
    12. After compressing the timing chain tensioner, install a set pin. Remove the right cam to cam guide. Remove the right timing chain auto tensioner and timing chain tensioner arm.
    13. Remove the oil pump chain cover. Remove the oil pump chain tensioner assembly. Remove the oil pump chain guide. Remove the right timing chain.
    14. Remove the right timing chain guide. Remove the oil pump chain sprocket and oil pump chain. Remove the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump and camshaft drive gear.
    15. Remove the left cam to cam guide. Remove the left timing chain auto tensioner and timing chain tensioner arm. Remove the left timing chain.
    16. Remove the left timing chain guide. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and left camshaft drive. Remove the tensioner adapter assembly.

      0996b43f8020193b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing chain and related components-3.8L Engine


    To install:
    1. Check the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets for wear and damage, replace as required.
    2. Inspect the tensioner arm and chain guide for wear and damage, replace as required.
    3. Check that the tensioner pin moves smoothly when the ratchet pawl is released with a thin rod.
    4. The key of the crankshaft should be aligned with the timing mark of the timing chain cover. This indicates that the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
    5. Install the tensioner adapter assembly. Install the crankshaft sprocket and left camshaft drive.
    6. Install the left timing chain guide and torque the retaining bolts 14-18 ft. lbs.
    7. Install the left timing chain. Be sure to install the chain with no slack between the camshaft and the crankshaft (crankshaft sprocket, timing chain guide, exhaust camshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket). The timing mark of each sprocket should be matched with the timing mark (color ink) of the timing chain at installation of the timing chain.

      0996b43f80201924.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Left timing chain markings and installation: (D) exhaust camshaft sprocket (C) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine

    8. Install the left timing chain tensioner arm and torque the retaining bolts 14-16 ft. lbs.
    9. Install the left timing chain tensioner and torque the retaining bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
    10. Install the left cam to cam guide and torque the retaining bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
    11. Install the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump and right camshaft drive.
    12. Install the oil pump chain and oil pump sprocket. Torque the retaining bolt to 14-16 ft. lbs.
    13. Install the right timing chain guide. Torque the retaining bolts to 14-18 ft. lbs.
    14. Install the right timing chain. Be sure to install the chain with no slack between the camshaft and the crankshaft (crankshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket, exhaust camshaft sprocket). The timing mark of each sprocket should be matched with the timing mark (color ink) of the timing chain at installation of the timing chain.

      0996b43f80201925.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Right timing chain markings and installation: (C) exhaust camshaft sprocket (B) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine

    15. Install the right timing chain tensioner arm. Torque the retaining bolts to 14-17 ft. lbs.
    16. Install the right timing chain auto tensioner. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    17. Install the right cam to cam guide and torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    18. Install the oil pump chain guide. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    19. Install the oil pump tensioner assembly. Torque the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. lbs.
    20. Pull out the pins on both the left and right hydraulic tensioners. Install the oil pump chain cover.
    21. Rotate the crankshaft two revolutions in the clockwise direction. Confirm the timing mark. Be sure to rotate the crankshaft in the clockwise direction.
    22. Apply sealant on the chain cover and on the cylinder head, cylinder block, and lower oil pan. Be sure these parts are free of engine oil and dirt.
      NOTE Before assembling the timing chain cover, the liquid sealant TB1217H should be applied on the gap between the cylinder head and block. The part must be assembled with five minutes after the sealant is applied.


      0996b43f80201926.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Sealant application (1 inch bead width)-3.8L Engine

    23. Apply sealant on the chain cover.
      NOTE The liquid sealant TB1217H should be applied on the gap between the cylinder head and block. The part must be assembled with five minutes after the sealant is applied.


      0996b43f80201927.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing cover sealant application-3.8L Engine

    24. Install a new gasket to the timing case cover.
      NOTE It is important that the dowel pins on the cylinder block and holes on the timing chain cover should be used as a reference in order to assemble the timing chain cover in the correct position.


      0996b43f80201928.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing cover gasket installation (A) gaskets-3.8L Engine

    25. Install the timing chain cover. Torque the retaining bolts in the proper sequence and to specification. The engine should not be started for at least thirty minutes after timing chain cover assembly.

      0996b43f80201929.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

      Fig. Timing cover bolt torque sequence and specification-3.8L Engine

    26. Install the timing case cover oil seal.
    27. Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

May 19, 2012 | 2004 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Replace water pump 95 Nissan maxima


Remove the Old Water Pump
  • 1

    Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.

  • 2

    Place a car jack underneath the oil pain to support it. Also, to protect the engine parts, put a block of wood onto the jack.

  • 3

    Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the engine mount and bracket on the right side.

  • 4

    Take out the drive belts as well as the idler pulley bracket, the chain tensioner cover and the water pump cover.

  • 5

    Push the timing chain tensioner sleeve up and put a stopper pin in it to keep it from slipping. Take out the chain tensioner assembly.

  • 6

    Turn the crankshaft pulley in a backward motion until it rotates 20 degrees.

  • 7

    Place 2 MB bolts into the threaded holes of the pump and tighten them by hand, alternating turning a half turn each at a time unit they reach the timing chain rear case. Doing it this way will prevent damage to the timing chain rear case.

  • 8

    Remove the water pump, throwing away the old o-rings. Make sure not to let the water pump hit the timing chair.

Install the New Water Pump
  • 1

    Clean all the mounting surfaces on the water pump and covers.

  • 2

    Install the new water pump with the new o-rings, tightening the bolts to 75 to 95 inch pounds (8.5 to 10.7 Nm).

  • 3

    Turn the crankshaft pulley back to its starting position (20 degrees forward).

  • 4

    Install the chain tensioner and water pump covers, tightening to .092 to 130 inch pounds (2.3 to 3.3 mm).

  • 5

    Take out the stopper pin from the timing chain tensioner.

  • 6

    Put a bead of liquid sealant onto the mating surfaces of the water pump and timing chain tensioner.

  • 7

    Install the timing chain tensioner with the water pump to the engine block, tightening the bolts to 87 to 113 inch pounds.

  • 8

    Add the drive belts, the idler pulley bracket and the engine mounting bracket with the engine mount.

  • 9

    Reinstall the negative battery cable and remove the jack from under the engine. Install drain plugs to the cylinder block.

  • 10

    Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Continue to monitor for the next few days for air bubbles in the system causing the fluid level to go down. NEVER TOUCH A HOT ENGINE, CHECK WHEN ENGINE IS COOL.
Good luck! --My Car Doc

Oct 24, 2011 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

On a dashbord flashing "oil


STOP the engine immediately !!! There is an oil pump failure of 2.0 TDI engines !
Remove the oil pan and the oil pump & balancer shafts assembly.

tdisline_456.jpg


Either the shaft driving the pump from the balance shaft rounds off or the balance shaft drive gears eat themselves.
The same issue ... low oil pressure warning light, noisy rattling engine, and the turbo has gone. Diagnosis: oil pump balancer shaft assembly ...


tdisline_457.jpg

tdisline_458.jpg
tdisline_459.jpg tdisline_460.jpg tdisline_462.jpg tdisline_463.jpg
Many 2.0 TDI engines show excess chain noise and wear anywhere from 50,000-100,000+ miles. Cars have broken the chains/tensioner as low as 65,000 miles. This is just a range of cars that have been reported, diagnosed, and repaired. The actual statistics on dealer repairs or failures is unknown and I've heard cars over 100,000 miles that, in my opinion as a non mechanic (most mechanics wouldn't recognize this sound and problem either), aren't noisy. From what has been reported, noticeable noise/chain-tensioner wear/greater risk of breaking is around 60,000-150,000 miles. Your case may vary. The most obvious symptom is a rattling loose noise from the oil pan. Unless you listen to a Passat TDI with a tight chain and one with a loose chain, it's hard to describe the difference other than rattling chain noise.
The reason the gear drive oil pump modification was started is because a few mechanics who specialize in TDI have seen many worn oil pump chains/sprockets/tensioners. There will always be a few defective parts that come off the assembly line and all mechanical components like chains wear out sooner or later, but in my opinion, the failure rate is abnormal considering the number of Passat TDI sold versus the number of reported oil pump failures. This does not necessarily mean that every or even most Passat TDI will have this problem, just that the reported failure rate is high enough to consider this part a design failure. Nobody, not even VW-Audi knows the average time between failure for these parts and the percentage of cars that will have this problem, but they changed this design and if you want to not have this specific failure, the only sure way is to swap to the geared module.


tdisline_464.jpg

Apr 17, 2011 | Audi A6 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Oil warning light on saying oil pressure pump STOP engine Oassat diesel 2.00litre First Reg Nov 2005 mileage 56,5000 approx.On standard servicing schedule not long life


STOP the engine immediately !!! There is an oil pump failure of 2.0 TDI engines !
Remove the oil pan and the oil pump & balancer shafts assembly.

tdisline_448.jpg
Either the shaft driving the pump from the balance shaft rounds off or the balance shaft drive gears eat themselves.
The same issue ... low oil pressure warning light, noisy rattling engine, and the turbo has gone. Diagnosis: oil pump balancer shaft assembly ...


tdisline_449.jpg tdisline_450.jpg tdisline_451.jpg tdisline_452.jpg tdisline_453.jpg
tdisline_454.jpg
Many Passat show excess chain noise and wear anywhere from 50,000-100,000+ miles. Cars have broken the chains/tensioner as low as 65,000 miles. This is just a range of cars that have been reported, diagnosed, and repaired. The actual statistics on dealer repairs or failures is unknown and I've heard cars over 100,000 miles that, in my opinion as a non mechanic (most mechanics wouldn't recognize this sound and problem either), aren't noisy. From what has been reported, noticeable noise/chain-tensioner wear/greater risk of breaking is around 60,000-150,000 miles. Your case may vary. The most obvious symptom is a rattling loose noise from the oil pan. Unless you listen to a Passat TDI with a tight chain and one with a loose chain, it's hard to describe the difference other than rattling chain noise.
The reason the gear drive oil pump modification was started is because a few mechanics who specialize in TDI have seen many worn oil pump chains/sprockets/tensioners. There will always be a few defective parts that come off the assembly line and all mechanical components like chains wear out sooner or later, but in my opinion, the failure rate is abnormal considering the number of Passat TDI sold versus the number of reported oil pump failures. This does not necessarily mean that every or even most Passat TDI will have this problem, just that the reported failure rate is high enough to consider this part a design failure. Nobody, not even VW-Audi knows the average time between failure for these parts and the percentage of cars that will have this problem, but they changed this design and if you want to not have this specific failure, the only sure way is to swap to the geared module.

tdisline_455.jpg

Apr 15, 2011 | 2006 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

How to replace a waterpump on a 2001 olds alero 2.4 cam


Water pump is driven by timing chain idler and is mounted on the rear of the timing chain housing. Disconnect the neg. battery cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect oxygen sensor connector.
Remove upper exhaust manifould heat sheild. Remove exhaust manifold brace. Remove lower exhaust manifold heat sheild. Loosen manifold to exhaust manifold spring loaded nuts. Remove radiator outlet pipe to water pump coverbolts. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Pull down on the exhaust pipe to disconnect it from exhaust manifold bolts. Disconnect outlet pipe from oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with manual tranaxle, remove exhaust maifold brace. Leave lower radiator hose attached and pull down on radiator out look pipe to disengauge from water pump. Leave outlet pipe hanging.
Lower vehicle. Remove exhaustmanifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove exhaust manifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove manifould. Remove timing chain front cover. Remove timing chain tensioner. Remove bolts bolts securing water pump cover to cylinder block. Remove water pump to timing chain housing nuts. Remove water pump attaching nuts. Remove water pump and cover assembly. Separate componets as necessary.
WHEN INSTALLING WATER PUMP MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCES THAT AFFECT SEALING. My frist one I messed up and broke the pump so becarful.
Installation
If cover was separated from body during removal, join this componets with a new gasket and hand tighten bolts. Apply bearing grease to splines of water pump drive. Set body and assemble into position.
Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Installand hand tighten nuts securing body to timing chain housing. Lubracate outlet pipe "O" ring with antifreeze. (I use RTV) Connect outlet pipe. Install and hand tighten bolts. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification in the following sequence. I'll ad the torque spec. at the end but this is where if you tighten out of order something will break.
pump assembly to timing chain housing nuts.
pump cover to pump body bolts
pump cover to cylinder block bolts (Bottom Bolt First)
outlet pipe to cover bolts
To complete installation reverse removel procedure.
Torque specs are 19 in. or 26mm all except water pump cover bolts which are 124 in or 14Nm
I never torque the bolts just make sure there done in the right order.

Oct 19, 2010 | Oldsmobile Alero Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

92 voyager oil pump replacement.


Remove the engine front cover then drain the engine oil and take out the oil pan. It is under the engine and looks like the bottom of the motor.
Unscrew the oil pump mounting bolts with a wrench and proceed to remove the oil pump itself by pulling it down and out of the engine. Avoid getting any contaminants into the oil pump assembly while removing.
Add fresh oil to the new pump to prime it. Check the alignment on the new oil pump drive with the crankshaft/intermediate crankshaft timing.
  • Step 2 Install the new pump carefully, rotating it back and forth a little to make sure it has full surface contact between the pump and the engine block.
  • Step 3 Hold the pump in its sealed position and put in the pump mounting bolts, tightening them to 15 ft-lb.
  • Step 4 Put the engine oil pan back in and refill the crankcase. Start the engine and check for leaks on the parts you replaced
  • May 21, 2010 | 1992 Plymouth Voyager

    1 Answer

    Oil pump replacement


    This MAY seem Strange But It IS ALL necessary for Oil Pump Replacement. And Please Don't Forget to Rate Me as Most Folks Do Not. Thank You and GOOD LUCK with the Oil Pump Job Also


    OIL PUMP
    It is necessary to remove the oil pan, oil pickup and chain case cover to service the oil pump rotors. The oil pump pressure relief valve can be serviced by removing the oil pan and oil pickup tube. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Removal and Installation for procedures.

    DISASSEMBLY
    1. To remove the relief valve, proceed as follows:
    2. Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8 inch) hole into the relief valve retainer cap and insert a self-threading sheet metal screw into cap.
    1. Clamp screw into a vise and while supporting chain case cover, remove cap by tapping chain case cover using a soft hammer. Discard retainer cap and remove spring and relief valve.
    2. Remove oil pump cover screws, and lift off cover.
    3. Remove pump rotors.
    1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear.
    Oil Pump Assembly
    1. Assemble pump, using new parts as required. Install the inner rotor with chamfer facing the cast iron oil pump cover.
    2. Tighten cover screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
    3. Prime oil pump before installation by filling rotor cavity with engine oil.
    4. Install chain case cover. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Installation.
    REMOVAL of Timing cover
    REMOVAL
    1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
    2. Remove timing chain cover.
    REMOVAL Of Oil Pan to gain Access to OIL PUMP
    1. Disconnect negative cable from battery and remove engine oil dipstick.
    2. Raise vehicle on hoist and drain engine oil.
    3. Remove bending brace to transaxle attaching bolt.
    4. Remove bolts attaching dust cover to transaxle housing. Lower dust cover to gain access to oil pan bolts.
    5. Remove oil pan screws and remove oil pan.
    INSTALLATION
    1. Clean surfaces and apply a 1/8 inch bead of Mopar (R) Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent, at the parting line of the chain case cover and the rear seal retainer.
      1. Use a new pan gasket.
      2. Install pan and tighten screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
      3. Install dust shield and bending brace to transaxle housing.
      4. Lower vehicle and install oil dipstick.
      5. Connect negative cable to battery.
      6. Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.

    Mar 27, 2009 | 1998 Chrysler Town & Country

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