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Re: we have volt riched to injetions but the car dosenot...
Not much details here. ECU is not the most likely candidate have you checked the basics - Spark plugs and ignition coils? While you have the spark plugs out what condition are they in is there alot of carbon build up (injectors blockage - over fueling), is there oil on the plugs - bore wear. How was the car running before it would not longer start - did it over heat - run low on oil?
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How do you know #5 is running rich? error codes tell you that? I doubt it. But if you are sure, check the connections and the wire all the way back to the Ecu. my wild guess, the control is shorted to a positive supply and therefore the injector thinks it is supposed to supply wide open fuel. Or you have a bad ecu that is telling it the same thing.
on CO cars, it's below the ECU/PCM but if you have lambda's, then its not a CO car. CO cars are missing 02 sensors. and you said, Sensors, as Plural. got 2? you failed to post where car is and where it was sold new. Or VIN. Engine controls vary by country. this car may be OEBD type ECU/PCM , "use a scan tool" and if motor is rich , that can be for 2 reasons. ENGine is rich Catalysis dead, or both. and CO is not HC. but high CO usually does, give you high CO.
check whether your temperature sensor is not working and as it is not doesn't send message to the ECU correctly and is sending that the engine is working cold start and the ECU allows the Injection system to spray rich fuel as it needs for cold start. Check this out
Sounds like a MAP inlet Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor fault.
Symptoms of a faulty MAP
Poor starting/erratic idling/engine
stall - with the MAP not sending the correct inlet
air pressure signals to the ECU, incorrect fuel injection volumes then
result.The imbalance in the
fuel/air ratio often leads to rough engine performance and poor starting
and stall.The engine might be kept
running at start up by pumping the accelerator pedal
ceiling - the engine may seem to perform normally in
the lower rev range but will severely run out of power above about 3000
Poor fuel economy.The
ECU tends to supply an over rich fuel mix to the engine in the absence of
signal from the MAP resulting in very poor fuel economy. The reason for this is
that if the MAP has no signal this ECU assumes 'no vacuum' = fully open throttle = engine
is under load.To match this 'open
throttle' signal the ECU increases the injection cycle to supply more fuel
How to Check? The MAP has three electrical
pins, one for 12 volts (or 5 volts) reference, one for ground and the third
(the middle one generally) is the 'signal' output.Put a voltmeter positive connector on the 'signal'
pin of the connected socket (back probe by inserting a bit of wire).Apply suction to the vacuum input, even
sucking on it with your mouth, should result in a measurable voltage output.At normal air pressure (open throttle) the
voltage seen should be 0 volts.As
vacuum is applied the voltage output should change to about 5 volts (throttle
closed at idle).If no transition seen
the MAP is faulty.
replace lambda probe expensive but it will run ok after that, i dont know if you know how they work so here's a brief: lambda tells ecu how rich the exhaust gasses are, ecu ajusts fuel input as neccasery eg lambda says not anough fuel ecu puts more in and the other way round.
so if your lambda is covered in **** when you get it out just clean and put it back, if it looks clean enough it needs replacing!! jezza
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve this is all I could find