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Your first problem is no power to the coil/s. This could be the ignition switch or wiring from there to the coils. With ignition on, you should have 12 volts to the coil/s. The ECM grounds it out with help from the crank sensor. If you turn the ignition switch on and have the dash gauges and hear relays kick in, then check for bad/broken wires. Several things come on while in the run position. Like radio, blower fan, lights/gauges in the dash. If they don't come on, first would be checking the switch, then wires. You need a volt ohm meter, electrical shcematics.
You will need a self powered continuity meter to test the cable.
1) Disconnect the cables from the battery
2) Disconnect the cable from the alternator if possible
3) Using the meter attach one lead to each side of the alternator cable
Most meters have an audiable sound if there is continuity. If the cable is good, the meter will beep and the display will show a low number.
If the cable is bad, the meter will show a high number, or the infinity symbol.
well are you sure that you have a good or it just shows the correct
amount of voltage. which that should 12.6 volts for a fully charged
battery. to actually answer your question, (assuming)
you do have a good battery your alt. shouldn't keep it from cranking
unless it is locked up, but you would use a digital volt meter and
select the d.c. volts setting touch the red (positive lead) to the red
(positive post) on the battery and the ground ( black lead ) to the
ground terminal on the battery (negative post). it should read very
close to 14 volts. if not check to see if you are getting voltage to
your alt. by using your volt meter to test the power wire going to your
alt. it will be the one on the backside of your alt with a protective
boot over it. with your volt meter still set on dc volts touch your
black lead lead to a good ground and your red lead to your power wire
going to your alt. it should have 12 volts there. if not check your
fuses. if your car clicks when you try to start it then you may have a
bad battery connection. dirty terminals with corrosion built up on them
will do the same thing. also a starter that is bad will click because
the bendix can't kick out to engage the flywheel to turn your engine
over. well hope i answered your question and then some.
There should be connection to the window motor inside the door panel. Disconnect it and run two leads from the battery.. One on negative one on positive. touch the leads from the motor with the leads from the battery. reversing the positive and negative leads, change the direction the motor turn.
I would get a second opinion on your alternator. Does your battery light come on while your driving? That can be an indicator of an alternator going bad. Also, there's an easy way to check the alternator yourself if you have access to a multi-meter. Turn the multi-meter on to DC volts and start the car. Put the positive lead on the positive battery terminal and the negative lead on the negative battery cable. While the car is idling, the meter should read 12.5 - 13.5 volts. Have someone rev the engine. With the increased RPM's the meter should read over 14 volts. If the voltage goes down when you rev the engine, your alternator is bad.
If you have a multimeter you can pull a battery terminal off and insert the amp meter between the battery and the main lead. You should have no more than 100 milliamps continuous draw, if you do, start pulling fuses one at a time until you find which circuit has the draw. This will at least give you an idea where to start looking.
sounds like electrical power is lost to engine.
So, power source is at starter relay. Check connection there. If you have a volt meter - use it. If not, rig up a 12V light and use it. Find the bad connection - starting at the starter relay. I guess that the lights (head lights, radio, etc.) work.
So, carefully clean battery power leads. The problem is in that part of the electrical system.