Question about 1997 Buick LeSabre

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I seem to have a busted brake line. The is NO pressure to my brakes. Is this an easy fix or would I be beter off taking it to a shop?

There is brake fluid squirting from underneath car approximately 1/3 of the way back the rear drivers side passenger door. The is no pressure when brakes are applied.

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As you describe the line is broken or a fitting is loose.If you want to do tyhe job yourself take the line out and use it as a sample to either get a new one made or get one from a wrecker

Posted on Jan 17, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: 1991 buick park avenue brake problem had busted

Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

Posted on Nov 02, 2011

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1 Answer

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the problem most likely is warped discs
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1991 buick park avenue brake problem had busted brake line on drivers side rear brake so i fixed it then bleed the brakes.aint getting no brake fluid comming out of the passenger side rear so took of the...


Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

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There may be a leak in the lines, the brake system is pressurized so if there is a loss of brake power the lines may not be holding that pressure. Another cause may be a faulty master cylinder and brake caliber. When it comes to brakes there are not to many places to check, any problems all surface around those components mentioned above. If you do have a leak in the system, you can go to a parts store to get a replacment part or hose. If it seems to be the master cylinder or caliber then it would be recommended to go to a repair shop. One shop that has done good work for me has been Pep Boys.

Hope This Helps!

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0IdNb3hEqI
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Its where the brake pedal is hooked to. and all the brake lines are hooked to it. if you pump the pedal up and leave little pressure on the brake pedal and it slowly goes down with just the wieght of your foot? That is a sighn your master cylinder is bad.

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