An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: I am changing the front breaks. Caliper problems
Hello, I just happen to be doing my breaks too. Open the bleeder port on the caliper and put a flat piece of metal across both pistons and compress them with a C-clamp. When you have them compressed close the bleeder port and remove the clamp and install caliper. You should always compress the caliper piston with the bleeder open especially with ABS brakes. Otherwise you have to reset the ABS. Good luck and remember to add brake fluid.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1.jack up both tire. 2.remove tire. 3.unbolt break caliper. 4.remove old break pads and take cap off break fluid. 5.use pliers or c clamps to push back in caliper to sit ffush. 6.install new break pads 7.reverse process
IS THIS A REAR OR FRONT CALIPER?
1. FRONT CALIPER: INSERT A LARGE C CLAMP WITH THE SCREW END INTO OPEN BORE OF CALIPER PISTON, THE STATIONARY END SHOULD BE SNUG AGAINST THE CALIPER END HOUSING: THAT THE PISTON MOVES IN AND OUT OF
COMPRESS C-CLAMP UNTIL CALIPER PISTON SEATS FULLY AGAINST THE CALIPER SEAL. INSTALL NEW PADS
2. REAR CALIPER: RENT AT AUTOZONE A REAR DISC CALIPER COMPRESSION TOOL. THESE CALIPER PISTONS WIND IN CLOCKWISE, INSTEAD OF JUST SLIDING BACK INTO A SMOOTH BORE. THEY HAVE GROOVES THAT FOLLOW A MATCHING SET IN THE CALIPER HOUSING.
Front aren't to bad just remove tire.Caliper holds pads, there are to bolts to be removed they may be allen wrench type from back to front One on the top one on bottom of caliper. After removing and a small amount of wiggling should allow you to tip the caliper back away from rotor and allow you to unsnap pads from caliper. Next you need a large C-clamp you use this to slowly push cylinder back into caliper, The cylinder has to go all the way back in or after you install new pads you wont be able to get them back down over rotor.Once you have pads set in caliper replace caliper over rotor and replace bolts in caliper pads are changed. BUT before taking off with vehical drive back and forth to ensure the brake pads properly set up and that you have brakes before taking off down the road.ONE other thing you may encounter,after removing bolts to take caliper off there are to spacers that slide with bolts as brakes wear.These to spacers have to be pushed into the caliper to allow you to be able to get the calipers properly seated on rotor. These spacers are seated in rubber and sometimes you have to drive them back in, be careful with the brake line so you don't break it while changing brakes it does Not have to be taken off to change the pads.Good luck let me know how it goes.
the piston needs to be turned and pushed at the same time. There are several different tools for this.
This one works the best but is also more expensive.
This one is very cheap and may work. Personally not worth it to me.
These will lock into the slots in the piston. Then turn the piston while applying pressure. Because the E-brake is built into the caliper the piston has a mechanism that allows it to ratchet out. Turning the piston while pushing it in will release the ratchet mechanism and allow to piston to be pushed back into the caliper.
I am going to assume since you have a late model car that you have 4 wheel disc brakes. You will need to take all four wheels off to get to the caliper. The caliper is usually held on with two bolts or pins. Sometimes there are retaining springs on the back of the bolt or pin, so double check for these. There is one pin/bolt in the front and one in back of the caliper. These are called floating calipers. You will need to take both bolts out and then give the caliper a smack with you hand or a small hammer and it will pop loose. The caliper needs to to be moved up over the rotor.
Take the caliper off the rotor. At this point it will be hanging from the brake line. Be careful with it, if you let it hang it could damage the brake line. You can lay the caliper on top of the rotor and pull the pads out of the caliper. If you do not have a caliper piston compression tool get a very large pair of channel locks and wrap a rag around the jaws. Use the channel locks to compress the pistons in the cliper as far as they will go. The new pads will be a lot thicker and if you do not compress the caliper you will never get them back on with the news pads. The point of the rag is so you do not score the pistons in your caliper.
The pads may or may not come with anti-squeal jel/grease. I would get some if they dont. You apply this to the back of the pad before installation. The new pads have spring clips on the back that just slip over slots in the calipers. Before careful not to confuse the front pad with the back pad upon removal, they can look really similiar in size and shape and sometimes you can install the wrong one in the wrong location and it will not function correctly.
Place your pads into you caliper then put the caliper back on the rotor. Put the bolts back into the caliper and tighten them down. I am unsure of the torque specs for your caliber bolts, but tight and a quarter of a turn more is a good rule of thumb.
Chalk the front wheels, car is on jackstands i hope, release the handbrake, use the old pad with a c- clamp to compress the pistion on the caliper, install new pads. may have to take the cap off the master cylinder, if none of this works, open the bleeder valve, and compress the piston, rebleed the caliper.
you should be able to compress the piston in the caliper with ease but a word of caution. you should open the bleedr screw when compressing the piston because of your ABS system. you could run into problems with the abs if you don't open the bleeder. if you are haveing problems compressing the piston with the bleeder screw closed you may have a siezed caliper or collapsed brake line. if you still can't push the piston in with the bleeder screw open you have a siezed caliper.
1. Jack up and remove tire
2. Remove 2 brake caliper mounting bolts
3. Remove caliper and hang out of way with wire
4. Remove rotor, if stuck hit on all sides with a rubber mallet until it breaks loose.
5. Install new rotor
6. Remove old pads from caliper
7. Using a c-clamp and a block of wood against caliper piston, compress piston until it is flush w/caliper
8. Install new pads in same location as old pads
9. Reinstall caliper, may have to nudge it into place with rubber mallet
10. Reinstall tire.
note: There are no bearings to grease. You must replace the entire hub assembly if yours are worn.