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Re: 96 Dodge Diesel, ignition switch
Inside engine compartment, look for injection pump, on side or top you will find an electrical connection, that connection comes from Your Key, it is an on and off electric valve, if You bring 12V power strait from the battery and clip it to that valve, go and try starting car, if car runs, after Your key or a Relay, my be defective, look for oil and coolant level, and Diesel Filer
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When you remove the lock cylinder, the ignition switch needs to be in the run position, and you need to put the new cylinder in the run position before installing it. It may be possible to get the cylinder into the switch housing in a different position, which may be what happened with yours. See the YouTube video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xN88TceP12c
The ignition switch has two positions inside the switch. There is an ignition feed when the ignition is in the crank position and another feed for the run position.
Both feeds may come out the same external terminal on the switch, but internally there are 2 contact points, one for each positon on the keyswitch.
The common symptom is the engine will hit or run briefly off the startup and then die. It does this because it loses the ignition feed. Not really familiar with the module wiring for a Chrysler, but I was 37 Years old when your car was built. In the day, you could bypass the ignition switch and wire a power source(alligator clip) directly to the coil + terminal and once the car was started it continued to run this way.
Then some nut invented the solid-state Module. It complicates testing and you know the rest.
You can get wiring diagrams free at Autozone.com by registering your car. I remember tuning up the dual-point distributors and the 440 Six-Packs for this era car.
The wire from your solenoid valve goes directly to your ignition switch there is no fuse in line. The ignition switch contacts or the plug just behind the switch probably has a bad contact. The switch is easily replaceable, just one screw that holds it in place. They did have a tendency to wear out. Don't forget to check the plug behind the switch, and make sure that there is no immoblizer fitted that can give you the problem.
replace the ignition starter switch, this switch is attached to the back of the ignition key cylinder, this a very common issue on your car. remove the **** shell covers of the column to access very easy job here is the part number and price.
ACDELCO Part # E1463 Price $46.79
The problem is the new PCM you installed does not have the correct VIN number of your car.
You may be able to relearn the VIN using the preceedure below, however, there is no gaurentee it will work. You may have to have a dealer reset the VIN for you by way of a scan tool.
1) Instert key into ignition and rotate to run position (do not try to start engine)
2) Leave the key in the run position for 10 minutes until security light stops flashing.
3) Turn ignition key to off position for 10 seconds ( no more, no less)
4) Turn ignition to run position again for 10 minutes until security light stops flashing and repeat step 3 and 4 for (1) more cycle.
The process is a security verification step for the VTD system. ( Vehicle Theft Deterent)
Next time this happens leave the key in the on position, open the hood and lift the fuel solenoid link (between the fuel solenoid and the injection pump) up. If it stays up the truck will start and run. The solenoid is shot but that might be a symptom of set of bad starter contacts.
Check the ignition switch for proper adjustment and operation. Switch is above the column (attached to it) under the dash...sometimes easier to reach if you drop the column. (don't remove it, just take out the bolts that hold it to the dash)