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leave it to a garage as they will need special tools if you can buy the bushes ,normally its a complete lower track control arm and the tracking will need checking afterwards ,Special tools required are a hacksaw and big hammer with suitable old big bolts as drifts ,remove the track control arm and then set light to the rubber in the bushes with a blow torch or a BBQ or a small bonfire ,then when rubber is burnt out and the inner piece drops out unclip hacksaw blade and push through hole mount blade ,cut a slot in the metal housing then the old piece will tap through ,take new bush and push a screwdriver through the hole and lightly run the outer casing over a bench grinder to take a knats whatsit off then put in the freezer compartment and leave for a hour ,warm up the track control arm hole either with blow torch or bonfire and then the bush will go in fairly easy with a few taps from hammer or push in with a big vice ,This is the cowboy way of fitting and not the text book recomended way but it will work ,wasnt a commercial fleet truck fitter for a many a year for nothing .No tracking gauges ?? got a tape measure ?? set to equal back and front taking measurement from lip on end of wheel rim not the tyre.Now when i was in the desert and we captured abandoned tanks ??? sorry that was the old mechanics that taught me 40 yrs ago but the dodges to get them going still applies today .
One of my customers had the same problem. I sprayed all the bushings with WD-40 and the noise went away. The rubber bushings have metal sleeves inside them that bolts go thru, over time, rust will build up and you'll get a squeak. The newer cars have alot of bushings on them.
It is most likely the control arm bushings. These are notorious for going out on Cobalts. I have had mine replaced twice.
The control arms on both the driver and passenger side have rubber bushings which probably deteriorated. This is causing metal to hit metal when the car goes over bumps.
The bushings themselves are relatively inexpensive; you can most likely pick them up at a dealership for under $40. The only issue is installing them. You have to use a hydraulic press to press the old bushings out and press the new bushings in. This isn't difficult, but you need the equipment.
the 4x4 shifter has a bushing that lets it pivot to each position you can see it under the vehicle,it bolts on to the trans/transfer case.it will seize fast and not let you move your shifter,sometimes you can loosen the large bolt that holds the bushing and spay it with wd-40,and work it back and forth then more spray .it happens even to the 2000 ford trucks.
I wouldn't replace this bushing unless it's obviously worn out. I know of this recommended method when a puller is not available, pack the bearing bore with grease and use a socket and extension or similar rod that fits snug as possible in the bearing bore and hit this tool with a hammer as to use a hydraulic effect. the pressure of the grease will push the bearing out. This method is used on, rear wheel driven, flywheel bushing removal. Good luck!