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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like it could be the transfer pump. Turn the key on and then crank the engine for about 1 second but leave the key in the run position and listen for the transfer pump to run. It should run for about 15 seconds after you stop cranking. If not, then you will need to replace the transfer pump with a in-the-tank conversion kit if your is mounted on the side of the engine block below the fuel filter housing. If you already have the in-the-tank pump then it might be siezed or the "sock" might be plugged up with alge or other contaminants. I usually lift the bed rather than removing the tank to replace the fuel module. If the check engine light is on you might want to have it scanned for codes to make sure since the modules can be spendy.
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
The check valve is a small brass fitting where the return line attaches to the filter head. I believe it takes a 7/16" wrench. There is a 'duck bill' inside that prevents fuel from leaking back to the tank causing air in the system. It should allow flow in only on direction. Some times you can see light through it if it's bad enough. Also, the lines between the injectors can dry out and start to leak air. Air will leak in before fuel leaks out, and you won't see it. There are plastic, cup-shaped connectors for these hoses that press onto the top of each injector. They are sealed by two o-rings on each injector body where it meets the connector. These o-rings can dry out and also leak air and fuel. Your Ford dealer or diesel service professional should have the proper o-rings. Any other o-rings might not seal, as they won't be the exact size. You already changed the fuel solenoid when you replaced the pump. It is inside. There has to be battery cranking voltage to it while cranking, and battery voltage with key in 'on' position. The wire attaches to the top of the pump. This is not likely to be the problem, since it restarts every 2 hours.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
SOURCE: 1991 dodge with a
You could have a bad cold start valve, go to an auto parts store and buy the cold start valve and replace it. you will see it on the intake manifold also pull off the air cleaner or hose and get a can of berry mans carb cleaner and clean the throttle plate inside and out then lube the throttle cables with Wd 40 then try it, if it starts your set, if not try pushing the throttle all the way to the floor and crank for 15 seconds then wait one minute then slightly press the gas pedal and try starting again this is how you clear flooded engine. If it starts you know that the throttle plate or cable froze shut and would not allow air into the engine causing it to flood. also check that the O-ring is not missing on the distributor cap which would allow condensation to form inside the cap shorting out the plugs and allowing it not to run. if it does it again pull the cap and look inside the cap if you see moisture then you need to replace the cap and rotor and O-ring.
Posted on May 28, 2009
SOURCE: wont start after warmed up
here are things to do.
Clean MAF sensor wires with carb cleaner and toothbrush carefully. This will remove varnish.
Check under distributor cap and rotor (1 screw) and under slotted plate. If brown dust, you need new distributor. Clean optical sensors for cam sensor before re- assembling. Temporary fix only.
Check ECT, engine coolant temp sensor.
Have Autozone run free computer scan for fault codes.
Finally, go here for expert Villager support
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
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