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The left axle is a little tricky I use a crow bar and tuck the curved end in behind the cup of the axle then look for a good sturdy position on the transmission and do a quick snap on the crowbar and the axle pops out. Be ready with an oil pan if you did not drain the transmission oil as it will come out. Also Saturn transmissions get serviced with dexron III even the manual transmissions. When reinstalling the new axle place the transmission end in first and get the snap ring to hold before re-assembling the rest of it. Is best to insert the end of the axle into the transmission, then hold the axle straight while pushing inward on the axle until you feel the cv joint bottom out inside the cup then with a dead blow hammer, strike the outer end of the cv joint and you should be able to feel the inner snap into place. To make sure that it is reach in and grab the inner axle you should not be able to pull it back out by hand. If you try to hammer on the inner cv joint during installation you take the chance of damaging the boot. And causing premature failure of the inner axle cv joint. Hope this helps.
The transmission is transversely mounted in these vehicles. The mount that secures the transmission to the body is also supporting the engine. If you want to remove the transmission without also removing the engine you will have to support the engine once you remove the transmission mount. You will need to remove the drivers side wheel, caliper, and rotor. You then need to remove the drivers side CV shaft. You will need to separate the lower ball joint in order to remove the shaft and to provide working room to separate the transmission from the engine. You need to disconnect the Shift cable (automatic) or slave cylinder (manual) from the transmission. You must separate the passengers side CV shaft from the transmission, but you do not need to full y remove it. Ensure that you do not separate the inner CV joint when pulling the transmission free from the inner splines. Remove the flywheel shield plate. If automatic transmission, unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel. Disconnect any electrical connections from the transmission. If automatic transmission, disconnect the hydraulic lines running to the radiator. Unbolt the transmission from the engine at the bell housing. Automatic transmissions will come out fairly easy...manuals you must pull back to disengage the transmission splines from the clutch disc.
CAUTION: It is advisable to get this job done by a qualified technician otherwise you will take the consequences.
Do the following job at your own risk.
- Place the car on a level floor.
- Pull up the hand brake.
- Block the rear wheels with wheel stoppers, wooden blocks or bricks.
- Call a friend or relative to depress the foot brake, turn the steering wheel little towards left side and put the car in 4th gear.
- Loosen the axle nut force fully (large one in the center of wheel) with a socket and double extension rod.
- Loosen the four wheel nuts.
- Lift up the front left wheel with Jack, place a support under the strong chassis and remove the jack.
- Remove all the wheel nuts and remove the front left wheel.
- Place a container or tray under the inner CV joint to preserve the transmission oil which will come out unavoidably during the axle removal.
- Remove the lower ball joint nut.
- Remove the tie rod end.
- You don't have to remove the hub completely but to release it a little.
- Pull the hub out by pressing the CV joint in and take the outer end of the CV joint out of the hub.
- Place a strong long chisel like lever between the inner CV joint cup and the transmission and push the cup away from the transmission to take the lock out of its host.
mark the relationship of the inner cv joint to the flange.place a large screw driver between wheel studs hold driveaxle and remove the inner cv joint to axleshaft flange nuts remove the freewheel hub remove the driveaxle snap ring and spacer pull the inner cv joint off the axleshaft flange studs lower the inner cv joint and pull the driveaxle assembly out of the steering knuckle.let me know if this helps.
It can be fixed but now you will need to remove it from the trans and cut the band off the larger side of the boot. then re-alighn the knuckles and slide the 3 joints in 1 at a time. You going to need a new band and the crimper which you can usualy rent from a parts store that has free tool rental. Make sure you grease the joint before you slide the boot back on. Its easier that it looks. When you pull the cv joint out of the transmission some fluid will come out too so use a drain pan. Sometimes they are a pain to get out but a good prybar and some patients usualy works. Pry as you turn the cv joint and it will pop out. Good luck!
CV joints are on the inner and outer ends of the front drive axles. They come as a complete unit known as a "half shaft". After setting the vehicle on jack stands and removing the tire, you have to remove the axle nut. This nut has a lot of torque holding it, so it may require the use of an impact gun. then the lower ball joint has to be taken apart so that the hub assembly can be rotated out of the way to remove the axle. Then you have to pull the whole shaft out of the transmission. Some fluid loss is normal so have a pan under the tranny. It is held in by a ring that rides in a groove and it has to compress to get the axle out so it may take some effort to pull it out. Getting the ball joint apart will require the use of a tool called a pickle fork. If you don't have the proper tools, this is a job best left to a shop.
to find this out hold with both hands the cv joint pull on the inner shaft when holding the outer shaft still if it moves a lot its the joint, if it dont move much, its not the joint so then pull on the outer part of the joint that go's into the gearbox, dont hold the shaft only hold the inner most part of the cv joint that go's into the box if it moves/ flops about its the bearing in the gear box