Question about 1984 Ford Bronco II

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Ring gear needs to be replaced on the flywheel

My son has a 1984 Ford Bronco II with the 2.8 ltr engine and 5 speed transmission. The vehicle was making alot of noise starting and he replaced the starter but the noise continued and I suggested that he may have flywheel problems.

The vehicle finally would not start but we pulled it off to get it home and I had my son and his friend pull the front and rear driveshaft down and the transmission brace.

I had expected the transfer case to be on the side and not behind the transmission and was surprised that it also had a hydraulic clutch.

The notes from autozone says that we should take the transfer case off the transmission, along with the drive shafts.

It seems that if we placed a regular jack with a transmission saddle under the transmission and a transmission jack under the transfer case, we could just move and lower the whole assembly without removing the transfer case. Is that possible or will the 4 wheel lever hit before we can get it lower or back far enough?

I have taken my CJ5 Jeep transmission and transfer case down together, it's hard but less than taking them apart and replacing them separately or so it seems.

thanks, in advance, for your help.

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  • ricktbrooks Jan 25, 2009

    Rapid Transit gave great detailed information on the problem and the solution to the question about what to do on dividing the transfer case.

    The part about the hydraulic line and the white connector is still confusing as I have a red plastic line about the size of a pencil that is coming over the driver's side of the transmission and ends in the top of a bottle shaped container with what looks to be a fitting on the top end of the container. I don't see anything white or gold.

    All the rest of the information is extremely helpful and answers all my questions and more. I will have to begin the procedure and I am sure the rest will be verified.

    Thanks for Rapid Transit and also to brlfg for encouragement and additional information about the transfer case gasket and dividing the two components.

    Thanks for all the help.


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RapidTransit is wrong on one thing...we changed my 84 Bronco II over from auto to 5speed and never had to seperate the tranny and transfer case...the 4wheel shifter comes off. Its harder to balance and move the tranny/transfer case as a single unit (took 2 of us with a hydraulic jack), but saves a lot of time and aggravation later...and money if your on a budget.

Posted on Nov 01, 2010

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I've removed and replaced many,many of those transmissions,as well as the automatic trans version,and the 2 wheel drive version where a "dummy" transfer case is still in place but 2 wheel drive only,but that's another story entirely.The transfer case shifter will interfere with removal making it impossible to remove without breakage.The first technical tip on the hydraulic line disconnect at the transmission is the white plastic.Locate where the hard plastic hydraulic line comes over from the body,to the transmission.The line goes from small to big,and is gold in color.The female receiver socket is the hydraulic slave cylinder.In between the two gold halves that are attached as one is a round,white piece of plastic.This white plastic is plunged,evenly,and gently,into the slave cylinder with either a couple of small pocket screwdrivers,or there is a tool available specifically for this.The transfer case is attached with 5 or 6 bolts that from the factory,took a 13mm socket to remove.The point of the excercise of removing the driveshafts and the transfer case is because reinstallation with everything in place WILL be impossible.There is also an issue with the exhaust head pipe or Y pipe on the V6 version.The EASIEST and LEAST frustrating way to remove is actually MORE work,but in the end you will have to do it anyways.First is to support the transmission with a floor jack or trans jack,then remove the transmission crossmember and mount,13 mm,18mm,and 19 mm bolts,both driveshafts,mark with a marker before removal,to index the driveshafts the same way they came out and prevent any possible vibrations.Disconnect the transfer case shifter,just let it lay there off to the side,or fasten it up out of the way with a bungee cord.Disconnect speedometer,remove transfer case.Some trans fluid can drain out if you haven't drained it already.There is a gasket between the trans and transfer case,and if not replaced,you will have a leak there when reinstalled.Remove the starter and any bolts attached to the engine plate at the front of the trans.The shifter bolts on the transmission can be removed either through the cab of the vehicle which involves removing the rubber shifter boot assembly,then accessing the 3 shifter bolts,they take either a 25 or 27 torx socket,it's been awhile since i've seen a Bornco 2.Some guys leave the torx bolts in place and opt to remove the 18mm nut they see at the shifter stub.The nut can be removed,and then the pin driven out the opposite direction,but this leaves a shifter stub,about 3 inches tall that also interferes with removal and installation.I just remove the 3 torx bolts from under the truck with a tool i've made,and leave the shifter and boot hanging in the trans tunnel..After all that it is time to remove the bellhousing bolts,which are 13mm head.I believe 6 of them.Trans should slide out now.Check crankshaft endplay as part of your inspection procedure.The crankshaft thrust bearing is more prone to wear on a manual trans vehicle.It isnt hard to do,and requires a relatively long pry bar.You can hook your pry bar in between the flywheel and engine oil pan,and GENTLY pry the flywheel backwards.Now remove pry bar,place pry bar in between flywheel and the floor pan,or the transmission tunnel,and pry the flywheel back,give it a quick firm shove,towards the front of the vehicle.Acceptable endplay of the crankshaft is minimum .006" to maximum .015" and unacceptable of around .020"and up.Endplay can be checked with a magnetic base,or clamp base,dial indicator.After the endplay check,remove the flywheel to visually inspect the ring gear.Look for stripped teeth,or teeth that are missing or damaged in any way.I have replaced many a Ford,GM and Jeep and others,flywheel ring gears.An oxy/acetylene torch is required to remove and reinstall a new ring gear.Set the torch on medium to hot heat,place the flywheel on a steel workbench,ring gear up,and start contacting the ring gear with the flame,and keep the torch moving in a circular direction until the ring gear has heated up low glowing red or barely red.Knock off the old ring gear with a hammer and punch.Reinstallation is directly the opposite.You can also opt for a new flywheel,with a new ring gear,or good used if you can find it.Good luck.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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