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1997 honda civic si taillights don't work -keeps blowing out fuses

Turn lights on, and then the taillights don't work and keeps blowing out the fuse for the taillights

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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obzy
  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 honda civic vp keeps blowing low beam fuses left and right.

Fuses nearly always blow because of a bad earth. The switch only needs to short for a moment and the fuse will blow.

See if you can find a replcement swtich from a local breaker's yard or ebay and go on from there.

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

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SOURCE: 1995 HONDA CIVIC 1.5L KEEPS BLOWING 80A MAIN BATTERY BLOCK FUSE

its shorted to ground some where

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: Taillights dont work

the rear bulbs have 2 coils in them (1 for brake light and 1 for taillights) You need to replace them with new ones. This will solve the prob. Good luck

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 396 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2004 Honda Civic Coupe. The headlights

check to see if there is a short in the lights by removing the bulbs if so replace bulbs and see if that works

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

philschneide
  • 448 Answers

SOURCE: #14 fuse in a 1991 honda civic si keeps

That leaves only two probablities: 1) a possible short in the wiring to the alternator, or 2) the alternator itself, particularly the voltage regulator inside it. Voltage regulators can be changed, but virtually nobody does that. Since you have to take the alternator off to do it, most people simply replace the alternator as a unit.
I would take a good look at the wiring to see if there are any worn-bare places. I doubt that that's the problem, but it could be. There is also a fusible link (flat single piece of metal which melts under too high a charge) in SOME models of your car in the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the alternator (I doubt that your car has one since it probably would have blown rather than the fuse you indicated).
Next (you won't be delighted by this) change the alternator. It might look difficult, but if you take your time and you have or can borrow the appropriate wrenches, you can do it.
Here's how:
Detach the negative cable from the battery.
Mark and detach all of the connectors from the alternator (do not trust your memory).
Test the tension of the drive belt (you’ll have to get it roughly back to that tension when you change the alternator)
Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt (the one that goes through the oblong hole so you can tighten the alternator against the belt).
Loosen the pivot bolt (the only other bolt holding the alternator in place).
Detach the drive belt (push the alternator away from it, but do not take the belt off, unless you have a diagram indicating how it goes on).
Remove the adjusting bolt and the pivot bolt, then the alternator should be free.
Take the alternator with you when you go to get a replacement (some place like Autozone would be okay. Ask for a rebuilt alternator (they are cheaper and usually reliable).
Make sure the rebuilt alternator has the same connections as the old one. Look at it carefully.
Alternators usually don’t come with the pulley. Have them put your old pulley on the alternator you are buying.
Take it home, put it in, tension the belt to approximately where it was. Start the car.
I hope that this helps you.

Posted on Nov 25, 2009

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