Question about 1992 Buick Park Avenue

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Broken turbocharger- Can engine run with turbocharger removed?

Turbocharger was out of oil for months. It is now ruined. Can we remove it and still run the engine in our otherwise very good 1992 Buick Park Avenue?

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  • Buick Master
  • 3,103 Answers

See if a local (dare I use the word) junkyard may have a replacement you can put on..if not your fuel economy may go kaput and your service engine light will come on with the 0-2 sensor going bananas..good luck..

Posted on Jan 17, 2013


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SOURCE: front brake pads & rotors on 2003 buick park avenue

first you put the car on stands and and then you take the two bolts out in back of the caliper and remove the caliper and then remove the pin in the center of the rotor and the nut and then take the rotor off and do not forget to repack the bearing with grease and then put it back together take one side apart at a time.just in case you need to take a look at how it goes back together

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SOURCE: removing water pump 98 buick park avenue

You need to poke a small extension with a 13mm socket through the holes in the power steering pulley, undo it, and slide it back.

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SOURCE: 2000 Buick Park Avenue Service engine soon light

need to take car somewhere to have the code read with a scanner,try parts stores first some will do it for free if not the dealers have them

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SOURCE: How do you remove and replace the fuel pump on a

Through the access hole in the trunk just behind the seat back on the passenger side.

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Here is a link explaining this problem

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I have just had air mass sensor fitted, swirl pipes removed,and intake manifold de-coked, 250 miles later tubo has failed i e,blades come loose, is there a connection

The cause of damage There are several main causes of turbocharger damage:
Find your cause by checking what was your Turbo's condition.


To work effectively, a turbo needs a constant flow of clean oil, and to keep your turbo in top condition, you need to ensure that you change the oil and oil filter regularly.
This helps to prevent the build up of carbon deposits and contaminants that can cause abrasive damage to the inside of your turbocharger, reducing its efficiency and causing irreparable damage over time. Fully synthetic oil produces the least amount of carbon.

Foreign objects

Sometimes, foreign objects like broken engine components, dust particles, small stones, dirt and leaves can enter your turbocharger, either via the compressor inlet or the turbine inlet.
These can then cause impact damage and abrasion to the compressor wheels and turbine blades, which will start to reduce the efficiency of the turbo. To prevent this happening, you need to ensure that your air filter is serviced regularly, and that you check your turbo for loose connections or debris.


A turbocharger works by increasing the air pressure in an engine (check out our beginners FAQ for further info).
If there are any leaks, cracks or poor seals between the compressor and the engine, the turbo will have to work much harder than it should have to increase this pressure. This will reduce the efficiency and boost delivered by the turbo.

Other causes

In addition to the causes listed above, excessive exhaust gas temps (EGT's), moisture ingress, wear and tear, fuel intake systems, the wastegate and the exhaust system can also cause damage to your turbocharger.
The warning signs There are several ways that your vehicle will let you know that its turbo is in need of maintenance or repairs:
Check engine warning lights - On most modern cars, the computer diagnostics will pick up turbo faults and the check engine light will come on. Of course, the check engine light doesn't just cover turbo failure, and you will need to do some further checks to see what kind of engine problem you have.
The boost gauge - Some turbocharged vehicles are fitted with a boost gauge, which lets you know how much boost your turbo is producing (you can also fit one to your car if desired). If your boost gauge isn't going up as much as it used to, then there is a good chance your turbo is in need of repair.
Power loss - If you notice that your turbocharged vehicle is accelerating more slowly than usual, or isn't capable of reaching the speeds it once could, this may be a sign that your turbo is failing.
A smoking exhaust - If the turbo housing has cracked, or the internal seals have blown, oil will start to leak into your exhaust system. As this burns off, it produces a distinctive blue/grey smoke, which will probably become more apparent as the engine revs increase just following an idle situation.
A loud whining noise - Often, a failing turbocharger will make a loud, distinctive noise when under boost - a bit like a dentist's drill or police siren if compressor wheel damaged. If you start to hear this noise from your engine, it's definitely time to have it checked out!
The next steps - checking your turbo If you notice any of the warning signs, then get your turbo checked as soon as possible. Your turbocharger isn't going to repair itself, and the longer you leave it, the worse (and more expensive) the problem will get!
At AET, we're always happy to help with the cost-effective diagnosis and repairs on a full range of turbochargers. Alternatively, if you're mechanically minded and aren't afraid of looking under the bonnet, you can check for a range of faults yourself by inspecting the turbo.
Essentially, you are looking for signs of oil, excessive movement, impact damage and contact between the compressor wheel and housing.
Before you start the process, we recommend checking the air filter, exhaust system, breather system and fuel system on your vehicle are all working properly, as these can cause similar symptoms to turbo failure.
Once you've done that, you'll need to remove the air filter to gain access to the turbo. First, examine the exterior, checking for any signs of oil or loose connections.
Then, check the compressor wheel - it should be clean, without any dings, chips, or signs corrosive pitting. Look out for evidence of excessive movement, ensuring that the wheel can't touch the housing, and check to see whether the turbocharger is able to rotate freely.
I you are feeling particularly ambitious; you can also check the exhaust side of the turbo. First, remove the exhaust pipe all the way to the turbo, so you can see the turbine wheel. This should look clean, with no carbon build up, scale or oil along the surface, and the blades should be free from cracks, wear and damage.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at

Jan 13, 2018 | Cars & Trucks


Turbocharger installation

In order to avoid any possible damage while installing your turbocharger or premature operating problems, either of which could invalidate the warranty, please follow these simple intructions carefully and completely.
1) Ascertain why the old unit failed, you don't want the same problem to recur and damage the new unit.
2) check for cleanliness. the smallest particles of dirt can do irrevocable damage to a turbocharger so check engine intake/exhaust and aftercooler systems for cleanliness and obstructions, carefully removing oil, pieces of gasket, dust, dirt and other debris. Replace the air filter.
3) Check the oil inlet and oil drain flanges are clean and free from obstruction, internal carbon and sludge, removing them to clean if necessary. if in doubt replace with new.
4) Replace the oil and filetr
5) Check that manifold casting is not cracked on the outside or breaking internally.
6)Mount the turbocharger on the exhaust flange checking that turbine inlet gasket fits correctly to give a gas tight seal.
7) Connect the oil drain pipe using gasket supplied - do not use any liquid gasket products.
8) Fill the tubocharger oil feed hole with clean engine oil and rotate the rotor by hand.
Finally connect all external fitting to the turbocharger. Start the engine and idle for few minutes, check the oil is not leaking and the warning sign does not come up, check all connection for possible leaks using soapy water.

on Apr 29, 2010 | Mazda MAZDA6 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

There is white smoke coming out of the back of my 2005 aui a4 2.0 tdi

It's very simply to find out if the turbocharger is causing white smoke from the exhaust vs a blown head gasket. So, remove the turbocharger's compressor inlet centre hose (from the aluminium side of the turbo). Then see if there's in plenty of oil coming out from the hose and from the turbo. I'm 100% convinced that the turbocharger is damaged in your case. You can remove also the exhaust pipe out from the turbocharger, and see if there's a lot of oil coming out.
Repair or replace bad turbocharger with a new one (or with a second hand in good condition one).
Good Luck!

Oct 01, 2011 | 2005 Audi A4

1 Answer

How to recognize if my turbo is causing blue smoke from the exhaust vs a blown head gasket. I don't have anti freeze mixed with my oil but it smoke coming out the exhaust when the car is running. ...

It's very simply to find out if the turbocharger is causing blue smoke from the exhaust vs a blown head gasket. So, remove the turbocharger's compressor inlet centre hose (from the aluminium side of the turbo). Then see if there's in plenty of oil coming out from the hose and from the turbo. I'm 100% convinced that the turbocharger is damaged in your case. You can remove also the exhaust pipe out from the turbocharger, and see if there's a lot of oil coming out.
Repair or replace bad turbocharger with a new one (or with a second hand in good condition one). Good Luck!

Sep 27, 2011 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

How do you know the turbo is bad in a 1988 t-bird

Hello there and welcome to fixya

Turbocharger problems are some of the most difficult to troubleshoot. The main purpose of the turbocharger is to provide more air to the engine. The more air going into the engine the more fuel that can be burned, which results in an increase in horsepower. There are four main parts of the turbocharger: the wastegate, center rotating assembly, turbine housing and the compressor housing. By understanding how the turbocharger functions, it is possible to uncover the causes of problems.
Difficulty:Moderate Instructions

    • 1 Check the air filter element as this is a main cause of blue exhaust smoke. This blue smoke occurs when there is not enough air going into the engine. Check all ducts and pipes for obstruction or leaks.
    • 2 Clean the turbocharger. Dirt that has caked onto the compressor wheel or the diffuser vanes can cause all types of problems. If the turbocharger is very dirty or the center housing contains sludge then you should also check the filters. Dirt coming in to the turbocharger is most likely due to broken filters.
    • 3 Check with the engine manual to ensure that the camshaft or pump is working at the correct timing. Adjustments may need to be made as the turbocharger can change over time. If the turbocharger is out of sync, then this will result in a noticeable decrease in engine power. An additional cause of decreased power is a gas leak in the exhaust manifold or the turbine outlet duct. The less gas the less power that is produced.
    • 4 Check the turbine blade and compressor for any damage such as indentations or notches. This type of damage will cause screeching noises, whining noises, rattling and scraping sounds. You will need to replace the turbocharger as well as locate the source of the damage to prevent further damage. There is a chance that the noises are due to other eternal components and not the turbocharger, but a visual inspection is easy to check before moving onto other components.
    • 5 Inspect the actuator if the entire turbocharger is frequently overboosting or underboosting. Make sure that the actuator is not loose and if so tighten it to the specified torque values. If there is visible damage to the actuator and air leak or if the actuator spring has broken a new actuator is needed.

Aug 28, 2011 | 1988 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

Where do I find the turbo charger in the engine and locate the VW serial number so I can buy a direct replacement?

First time remove the engine cover


Then you will see the engine

A - Airflow ducting
B - Integrated EGR/ASV valve
C - Crankcase vent tube (CCV)
D - Timing Belt cover
E - VNT actuator - part of turbocharger
F - Engine Oil Fill cap
G -Turbocharger control unit
H - Alternator
I - N75 / turbocharger boost pressure control valve
J - Mass Air Meter
K - Fuel Filter
L - Power steering fluid reservoir
M - Screen Washer Fluid
N - Coolant Expansion Tank
O - ABS stuff
P - Ducting to Intercooler
Q - part of CCV piping connector
R - N75 / Turbo Pressure Control solenoid
S - vacuum reservoir ball
T - FLex couplling for Exhaust system
U - Hot side of Turbo: flex pipe
V - Air throttle actuator
W - Pipe for EGR

Yellow arrow shows the turbocharger

The VW serial number is located on the front of the turbocharger


May 24, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

I need to find a free complete diagram for a turbo charger off of a 1987 toyota pickup 22ret

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the coolant.


When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

  1. Disconnect the O2 sensor wire clamp and connector.
  2. Disconnect the Nos. 1 and 3 PCV hoses.

Exploded view of the turbocharger-22R-TE engine
Click to Enlarge 85783064.gif

Installing air cleaner hose-22R-TE engine
Click to Enlarge 85783065.gif

Clip installation-22R-TE engine
Click to Enlarge

  1. Disconnect the Nos. 1 and 2 turbocharger water hoses.
  2. Loosen the clamp on the throttle body, remove the two nuts and lift off the air tube assembly.
  3. Remove the No. 1 air cleaner hose assembly and the No. 2 air cleaner hose.
  4. Remove the exhaust manifold and turbocharger heat insulators.
  5. Disconnect the No. 3 turbocharger water hose.
  6. Raise the truck and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the turbine outlet.
  7. Remove the turbocharger bracket stay.
  8. Disconnect the turbocharger oil pipe.
  9. Remove the turbocharger and exhaust manifold as an assembly.
  10. Remove the No. 2 turbocharger water pipe.
  11. Remove the oil pipe.
  12. Remove the No. 1 water pipe.
  13. Remove the turbine outlet elbow with the O2 sensor attached.
  14. Disconnect the turbocharger from the manifold.

To install:

  1. Pour approximately 20cc of new oil into the oil inlet and then turn the turbocharger impeller wheel so as to wet the bearing.
  2. Using a new gasket, attach the turbocharger to the manifold and tighten the nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
  3. Install the turbine outlet elbow and tighten the nuts to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  4. Install the No. 1 water pipe. Install the turbo oil pipe and tighten the nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
  5. Install the No. 2 water pipe and then mount the assembly to the cylinder head.
  6. Install the oil pipe and tighten the union bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Tighten the nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Install the turbocharger bracket stay.
  8. Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbine outlet elbow and tighten the nuts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm). Lower the truck.
  9. Connect the No. 3 water hose and install the heat insulators.
  10. Install the No. 2 air cleaner hose with the arrow facing the turbocharger and fasten the clip as shown.
  11. Install the air tube assembly. Connect the O2 sensor and clamp.
  12. Refill the engine with coolant, start it and check for leaks.
  13. shinehutt_48.gif
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i hope this will help you

plz comment reply if you have any questions

Jan 20, 2011 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Car doesnt have power and is also smoking ,,,i put the new airflow mitter but still the problem doesnt go away

Check immediately the turbocharger! DO NOT START THE ENGINE WITH THIS KIND OF PROBLEM!
Remove the air inlet axial center hose of the turbocharger, in other words the compressor air inlet hose. Then check axial & radial gaps of the turbocharger rotor.
Check also the turbocharger oil pressure supply. Check the engine oil level also.
Repair & replace bad pieces.
In the most cases the turbocharger is out of order when engine puffing off blue smoke and losing power.
If the car goes in "limp mode"!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp mode" engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

Dec 08, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

Audi A4 B6 1.8T puffing off blue smoke and losing power.

Check immediately the turbocharger! DO NOT START THE ENGINE WITH THIS KIND OF PROBLEM!
Remove the air inlet axial center hose of the turbocharger, in other words the compressor air inlet hose. Then check axial & radial gaps of the turbocharger rotor.
Check also the turbocharger oil pressure supply. Check the engine oil level also.
Repair & replace bad pieces.
In the most cases the turbocharger is out of order when engine puffing off blue smoke and losing power.

Dec 02, 2010 | Audi A4 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to remove the turbocharger from truck to replace oil cooler. Am unable to get it out. It is a 2003 ford 250 superduty tubo diesel 6.0 litre

1 - Remove the turbocharger intake tube
2 - Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe
3 - Remove the push pins on turbo cowl
4 - Disconnect the turbo VGT solenoid
5 - Remove the oil supply tube
6 - Using the special tool, remove the oil feed tube
7 - Remove clamp from the turbo down pipe
8 - Remove the clamp from the turbo inlet
9 - Loosen the exhaust inlet pipe-to-EGR cooler clamp
10 - Loosen the RH & LH exhaust inlet pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts
11 - Remove the rear turbocharger mounting bolt
12 - Remove the front mounting bolts
13 - Position the turbocharger and remove the turbocharger drain tube
14 - Remove the turbocharger

If you cant do it with these instructions put down your wrench and take to a dealership for a professional to work on it

Sep 03, 2010 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

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