Question about 2000 Toyota Sienna

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Car wont start, battery works and makes fast clicking noise

I got a new battery, new starter, checked the relays, checked my battery connections, could it be the ignition switch?

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  • 60 Answers

My Sienna did this when the battery cable became loose. Remove the cable completely, clean the cable and battery terminal with a wire brush, the reinstall. You'll need a jump start or a charger to get things going again, but from here on you should be fine. It's a great van, and should have plenty of miles left before you need to go replacing starters and solenoids. Here's hoping yours was as easy as mine. Good luck!

Posted on Feb 19, 2015

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  • Contributor
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Check and make sure you have battery voltage on the signal wire when they ignition is in the start position if the voltage is constant then the problem is probably your starter. Also check for battery voltage and amperage draw on the main cable coming from your battery to your starter, also check for high resistance from your starter to your negative battery terminal. Also make sure that you didn't get a bad battery. Also possible that you have a bad starter relay.

Posted on Jan 05, 2015

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  • Toyota Master
  • 3,103 Answers

Check all connections for tightness, sounds like one is loose somewhere between the battery and the starter or a ground is not tight..turn lights on and see if they go dead when key start is turned,,check the engine to frame ground also(usually a flat braided wire)..if lights go dead when key is turned need to charge the battery for around 4 hrs with a 6 amp charger and try again..may also be a neutral safety switch,,if not out of gear it wont start,,

Posted on Jan 17, 2013

  • Mark Miller
    Mark Miller Jan 04, 2015

    you might have a dead spot on the flywheel starter drive is not engaging wish i could here it id know

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 333 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Camry; Starter won't work when engine is cold

There are contacts located inside the solenoid of the starter that fail with age.

As the contacts where down, the starter likes to 'stick' and can take many tries to start, often requiring jostling like turning the wheel.

There are two options to correct this. The first obviously is to replace the starter.
To save some money you can replace the contacts instead.

Doing this requires unhooking your battery and removing the starter from the car.
Then remove the access plate on the back of the solenoid (3 8mm bolts), take out the plunger and spring. From there you can see the copper contacts, and how they have worn. Remove the 12m and 14mm on either side of the housing and push the bolts through to release the contacts and install new in the same order they came apart.

If you are taking this to a repair shop, be advised most independent shops will just try to sell you a $450 starter. Provide them these instructions or take it to a Toyota dealer and ask for "starter contacts" and they will know exactly what you need.

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

jeffbanko
  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1992 Toyota MR2, one evening I cam out to

This sound like a more common issue than we in the mr2 community would like to see. The cars are old and the ground wires tend to wear out. But normally the gas pedal cable becomes the place were it grounds out and start a fire. get a cheap ground wire kit for the engine compartment as well as put a few on the battery. Also check existing ground wires. Hope this helps!

Posted on Jan 10, 2010

  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: my 2002 celica won't start. making a clicking

If its a nippon denso starter you need solenoid contacts (low cost repair if you find your local starter repair man)
If your the handy type once you have got the starter off
remove the tin cover (3 screws) the contacts are inside

Posted on Oct 23, 2010

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I have a 2004 Chevy trailblazer no start no crank but if I put key on hot wire the starter it will start I replace new ignition switch and new starter relay b


Before you do any thing check for loose or bad connections. Also check you ground connection to engine. Check Fuses, relay and for a Fusible Link open circuit. Now let me explain what a Fusible Link does. They are short lengths of small gauge wire installed between the Battery and the Ignition Switch, or the Battery and the Fuse Panel. They'll melt and open the circuit before damage occurs in the rest of the circuit. I hope this was helpful you.

Aug 09, 2014 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

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Chevy Tahoe Intermittent No Crank


I will try to help, powell. Your start circuit from battery to ignition switch to starter-and back to battery. You may need to check every thing here, including the grounds, for a loose connection, or just possibly a failing part.
If only complaint is intermittent starter action, and no other problems with ignition switch, let's assume switch is good, so battery to ignition switch is good. Now from the switch, a yellow start wire goes to the instrument panel fuse block, to "crank" fuse #8 (10 amp), from there a purple wire goes to the safety switch. If manual it is a clutch pedal position switch (simple on/off switch-when clutch down switch is on). If automatic, purple wire goes to Transmission Range Switch on the transm.-in park or neutral the purple wire has continuity in and out of switch.
From that switch, the purple wire goes to the starter relay (under hood fuse-relay center). Now the relay: purple wire in start will energize the relay- wire goes to coil side of relay, and then coil side goes to ground. On relay power side, the power feed is a red wire-and it is the same red wire that initially sends power to the ignition switch. A 40 amp fuse in fuse-relay center sends power to ignition switch, and a splice goes to the starter relay as the power feed for relay. When relay is energized, contacts close, and power is sent from relay to the starter solenoid, again on a purple wire. When solenoid contacts close, starter motor is connected to the big battery cable on the starter.

There is your start circuit. try a new or different relay, try a new or test the clutch switch (or transm. range switch). Buy a $5 test light and use it to check where power is lost when starter won't operate. Hold key in start and check if fuse #8 is getting power. Check the safety switch, with key held in start, the purple wire should be hot. Check if relay has a power feed (pull relay out and check terminals) and if relay coil has a power signal in start. Check the relay's coil side ground. If that ground is intermittent, relay won't work.
When it won't start, use a test light, you should be able to find it.
Good luck.

Jan 10, 2014 | 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe

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Replaced starter and ignition relays under hood on my 99 chevy silverado and to wont do anything no security light no nothing is on everything good on all connections replaced wiring harness...


Is power getting to the ignition switch? Do the warning lights and gauges come on when key is turned to on? That would verify power in and power out at the switch. Then you would need to check the start circuit. A single start wire comes out of the switch, the signal travels through the neutral safety switch and a starter relay and then to the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. Solenoid closes contacts so battery power can operate the starter. If new starter doesn't work, power has been lost between the ignition switch and the starter.
If no power to the ignition switch check maxi fuses, all fuses in fact, and possibly a fusible link from the battery that may be the feed for the switch.

Sep 22, 2013 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

2 Answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.


You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

Jul 14, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

1998 ford f150 doesnt have signal for starter solenoid and ignition switch is new


Using a jumper wire, connect the S. terminal on the starter relay to the battery connection on the relay. the starter should engage. if it does not, your problem is between the starter relay and the starter itself. if it does engage, check your neutral safety switch if you have an automatic , or your clutch pedal switch if you have a standard shift.

Mar 03, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

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