Question about 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe

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04 tahoe 4.8 240degrees eng.temp. in cold weather. frt.and rear heaters blowing hot new water pump and thermostat back insummer. never run hot before.

Lower radiator hose is ice cold even at 240 temp.

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 5,316 Answers

Sounds like you may have blockage in the radiator. Give it a good cleaning and flushing.

Posted on Jan 16, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: heater/defrost doesnt blow hot heater hoses one

The heater core is probably clogged. The best method i have found is to remove the heater hoses, and blast compressed air into one side or the other in short bursts. This will tend to launch a clump of sludge out of the other side, and is very messy. Once the heater core is unclogged and reconnected, it is a good idea to chemically flush the entire cooling system, then flush with clean water and refill with universal coolant.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

tburtk
  • 158 Answers

SOURCE: overheatng after water pump replacemant

check to make sure belt is on correctly. also check to make sure cooling system is full of antifreeze.

Posted on Feb 11, 2010

  • 134 Answers

SOURCE: had water pump replaced engine

Have you checked your thermostat that sounds like the problem

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • 14585 Answers

SOURCE: replaced water pump engine overheats

You still have air in the system. remove the radiator cap, if you have one, if not remove the resevoir cap. start the car and let it warm up to operating temperture. keep check on the level and fill as necessary. you may have to do ths a couple of times.

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: The temp guage pegs out

Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...


Did your heater work before your work?

Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?


If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn

Posted on Jan 09, 2011

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yeah, low on coolant, or a blockage in the cooling system. I would do the thermostat first, should be simple and fairly inexpensive.

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I'd still check the thermostat. Or basically just replace it. Have you ever drained all the antifreeze and flushed the system? Good time to do both. If the hose's get real hot that doesn't really mean the thermostat open. Wouldn't they get hot even if the thermostat didnt open.? If the thermostat was stuck open you'd would have cold air and low temp gauge. Then maybe hit a pump or something and have the thermostat stick closed and have high temp. Maybe water pump. Check it when you have the belt off. Spin, pull & push the water pump pulley around. I'd replaced my water pump at about 110,000 on a '97 dodge Dakota. My 97 never had a very good heater. Always heated up more after driving. Idle never got it warmed up.

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Did you open the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is full of coolant? Sometimes the hose from the coolant reservoir to the radiator becomes plugged, and the radiator will become low on coolant even when the plastic reservoir is full. Low water levels will prevent the coolant system from getting hot water from the engine to the radiator or heater cores. This will cause the engine to run hotter while the heater appears to not be working.

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I think you could be right about there being air trapped in the system.
Or the heater core(radiator) is plugged.
Either way you need a pressurized radiator coolant pump to put the coolant in without air being trapped.
Although,i have seen it done by jacking the vehicle up high enough that the radiator was now higher than the heater core level, and then the coolant was put in.
But this is dangerous to try.

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