Question about 1995 Honda Passport
The light doesn't come on every time i turn the key on
I would suggest having someone check the circuits at the key switch.
The switch could be going bad.
The check engine and other warning lights must come on as a self-test when you turn the key on, then go off once the engine starts.
Posted on Jan 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My car starts most days
Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. These are some things that it can be. The following parts may be not woking properly. If you have a vehicle that will turn over and over but will not start, I will tell you some things that you need to check. Every vehicle needs air, fuel, and fire to start. Now, the first thing you want to check is the fuel system. You want to make sure that the engine is getting fuel. The easiest way to test the fuel system is by testing the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. You need to refer to your owner manual for the correct measurement of pressure. Another easy test is using starter fluid. If it starts when you spray the fluid, you have a fuel issue. If it doesn't, check the ignition system. If your pressure is not correct or you have no way of testing the fuel pressure, start by checking your fuel pump. The fuel pump pumps fuel out of the gas tank and to your fuel filter. When you first turn your key on, you should be able to hear the fuel pump kick on for a second or two. It makes a soft buzzing sound. Listen for this sound. This will determine if the pump is kicking on and working. If you don't hear this sound, check your fuel pump fuse, relay, and your reset button. Not all vehicles have a reset button, so once again check to see if you have this button. If you change all of these and the pump still doesn't work, you may have a bad fuel pump. Test and make sure the pump is getting power before you change it. Now, you want to make sure the fuel filter is not stopped up. Check the gas lines and make sure they have no damage. Lastly, make sure fuel is getting to the fuel injectors. If you are getting fuel, you will need to make sure you are getting fire. You need to test your spark plugs or coils for spark. If you have spark, you should look over your timing belt or timing chain to make sure it is not broken or slipping. If you are not getting spark, you will need to check the spark plugs, coils, coil packs, wires, distributor, distributor cap, and rotor. Anyone of these can cause a vehicle to not spark. Check everything you can. Make sure the rotor is spinning and make sure the distributor cap has all metal contacts. Also, make sure the cap is not damaged or cracked. Make sure none of the plug/coil wires are damaged. Make sure they are all hooked up correctly. Now, it is possible that you could have a bad camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor. In some vehicles, the camshaft sensor is built into the distributor. You want to test each of these parts and make sure each one is getting power. If a part is not getting power, that may be the reason your vehicle is not starting. If you have a check engine light on, you need to get your computer scanned for error codes. More then likely, if your vehicle won't start, your check engine light is on. The light is on because your computer has detected a problem with the vehicle. You can buy a cheap code reader for around forty dollars from Autozone or Advanced. Just make sure you know all your codes for your vehicle. When you have it scanned, the computer may know the exact parts you need to change. Most of these parts listed run off your ECM. The ignition system is a very complex system. It is rarely, but they do go bad. If you believe that the computer is to blame, make sure you have it flashed before you put it in your vehicle. If you don't, it will not work. Finding your error codes is the best way to finding your solution. If not, you will have many things to check. Always make sure you run a test on a part before changing it. Make sure that part is getting power. If it is not, check the power source. I know this is a lot of information, but any of the parts listed can cause the vehicle to not start. If you have no access to a code reader, fuel pressure tester, or a code reader, you can still check a lot of things. It is just harder. Remember, always use the process of elimination. Determine if the part is working or not and move on to the next part. You will eventually find your problem. Lastly, electrical problems can cause the symptoms you are having. They are very hard to find. When trying to find an electrical problem, you need to make sure you know what to test for. Each wire has a purpose. One part of the engine can shut down another part. You need to know how many volts you are testing for on each wire. You can use a voltage meter to test for current.
Posted on May 13, 2011
SOURCE: 2000 accord V6. Engine
do you have power to the pump?
If not than the first thing I would check is the PGM-FI relay located under the drivers side of the dash.
It will have 7 wires going to it.
The red with white wire is the power in to the relay for the fuel pump. The black with yellow is power out to the pump. There should also be power on the blue with orange wire.
The relays are pretty common to fail. Usually what happens is the solder joints crack. With the relay removed from the vehicle you can remove the cover. Carefully inspect the solder joints. If any of them look like they have a ring around then the joint is bad. If you have a soldering iron you can reflow those joints and the relay should be good as new. Or you can find a new relay at your local auto parts store. They are pretty reasonably priced.
Posted on Aug 07, 2011
SOURCE: My 2004 Honda CR-V occasionally
Hello and welcome to FixYa!
Looks like that you have a failing IACV (idle air control valve). If the IACV is faulty, the vehicle tends not to start or may stall during operation. I suggest that you have the vehicle scanned to know exactly what the fault is. Though I suspect that it's the IACV.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
Posted on Aug 12, 2011
Multiple problems. Take it to a mechanic. If the car has high mileage, call the junk man.
Posted on Apr 23, 2012
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Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All
Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be something as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.
Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter solenoid.
Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this problem.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.
Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start
Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.
Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.
Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.
Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.
Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off
Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you
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