My truck just started shaking and pulling to one side. When I parked the passenger side rotor was so hot I could fry meat on it. Mechanic told me he thought it was the brake hose but I think it is the caliper itself. Does anyone agree?
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Re: Brake caliper or brake hose?
The way to know if the caliper is bad or frozen is: Turn Your engine on, have some body on the inside pup the brake, have that person press the brake all the way to floor and hold it Loose bleeder on defective side, if fluid is not coming out strong, defective flex hose, To test the caliper, pride caliper towards the inside, like you are installing new brake pads,with small pride bar or big flat screwdriver, don't pride against the disc, do it from the top space between the back of the pad and the caliper. i
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you don't lube the piston only the studs that hold your caliper it have to slide freely on them some times rust, dirt or using the wrong tools for them cause them to drag or jam i hope thats your problem otherwise i recommend to have it checked by a specialist as you may have issues with the antilock valve body or the splitter !
it means the brake caliper is hanging up dragging the pads on the rotor causing heat. replace caliper and bleed brakes. also check the flexible hose that connects to that caliper. could be collapsed inside not allowing fluid to return. if in doubt replace it too at the same time with caliper and bleed brakes.
Dust and dirt accumulating on brake parts during normal use may
contain asbestos fibers from production or aftermarket brake linings.
Breathing excessive concentrations of asbestos fibers can cause serious
bodily harm. Exercise care when servicing brake parts. Do not sand or
grind brake lining unless equipment used is designed to contain the dust
residue. Do not clean brake parts with compressed air or by dry
brushing. Cleaning should be done by dampening the brake components with
a fine mist of water, then wiping the brake components clean with a
dampened cloth. Dispose of cloth and all residue containing asbestos
fibers in an impermeable container with the appropriate label. Follow
practices prescribed by the Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for
the handling, processing, and disposing of dust or debris that may
contain asbestos fibers. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder
reservoir. If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full
point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be
removed from the reservoir before proceeding. If the brake fluid level
is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum
allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before
Raise the vehicle and suitably support.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Pull down on the front park brake cable.
Remove the front park brake cable from the park brake cable
When using a large C-clamp to compress a caliper piston into a
caliper bore of a caliper equipped with an integral park brake
mechanism, do not exceed more than 1 mm (0.039 in.) of piston travel.
Exceeding this amount of piston travel will cause damage to the internal
adjusting mechanism and/or the integral park brake mechanism.
Install a large C-clamp over the top of the brake caliper housing
and against the back of the outboard brake pad. Compress the brake
caliper piston into brake caliper bore to allow the piston enough
clearance to slide the brake caliper off the brake rotor.
Remove the C-clamp.
Be sure to plug the opening in the brake caliper and brake hose to
prevent fluid loss and/or contamination.
Remove brake hose to caliper bolt attaching the brake hose to the
Remove the brake hose from the brake caliper.
Remove and discard the two copper brake hose gaskets. These
gaskets may be stuck to the brake caliper and/or the brake hose end.
Remove the park brake cable bracket from the brake caliper. Leave
the park brake cable attached to the cable bracket.
Disconnect the park brake cable from the park brake lever on the
Remove the lower brake caliper pin bolt.
Rotate the brake caliper up.
Remove the brake caliper from the upper brake caliper pin bolt.
If reusing the brake caliper retainers, clean the sleeves using
denatured alcohol, or equivalent.
Lubricate the brake caliper pin bolts with a thin coat of high
temperature silicone lube.
Install the brake caliper to the upper caliper pin bolt.
Rotate the brake caliper down over the brake pads into the brake
Install the brake caliper pin bolts. Tighten the brake caliper pin
bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Remove the plugs in the brake hose end.
Install NEW copper brake hose gaskets.
Assemble the brake hose bolt and the NEW copper brake hose gaskets
to the brake hose.
Install the brake hose to caliper bolt to the brake caliper.
Tighten the brake hose to caliper bolt to 44 Nm (33 ft. lbs.).
Connect the park brake cable to the park brake lever on the brake
Install the park brake cable bracket to the brake caliper. Tighten
the park brake cable bracket bolt to 43 Nm (32 ft. lbs.).
Install the front park brake cable to the park brake cable
Bleed the brake system.
With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to
of its travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
The Bosch 2U ABS system cannot increase brake pressure above
master cylinder pressure applied by during braking. There is no need to
depressurize the system prior to service.
Remove brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir
until the reservoir is approximately
Remove the front wheel. Mark the position of the wheel to the
wheel studs, prior to removal, for installation reference.
Install 2 lug nuts to retain the rotor once the caliper is
Using a large C-clamp, bottom the piston in the caliper bore by
positioning the C-clamp on the outboard pad and on the round portion of
the brake caliper where the piston is housed.
Remove the banjo bolt that fastens the brake hose to the brake
caliper. Discard the gaskets.
Cap the brake line to avoid excessive fluid loss or fluid
Remove the rubber dust boots from the caliper mounting bolt heads
Remove the caliper mounting bolts.
Remove the park brake cable from the caliper.
Remove the caliper from the vehicle.
Remove the brake pads.
Install the brake pads. Lubricate the slides where the caliper
mounts on the steering knuckle with silicone grease.
Install the caliper over the rotor.
Install the caliper mounting bolts. Torque the mounting bolts to
38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm).
Install the park brake cable.
Install the rubber dust boots over the caliper mounting bolt heads
Fig. Measuring the caliper clearance
Check the clearance between the brake caliper and caliper bracket
stops. If the clearance is too tight, check the caliper leading and
trailing edges for build up. File down as necessary.
Connect the brake hose to the caliper. Install the brake hose
banjo bolt, using new gaskets, and torque to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Remove the lug nuts used to secure the rotor.
Install the wheel, aligning the reference marks made during
removal, and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
Refill the master cylinder and bleed the brake system using the
Road test the vehicle and check for proper braking performance
First have the tires spin balanced - my guess is you have a seperated tire You could have a brake hanging up on that wheel Or not making proper contact - thus causing the rust or more correctly not removing the rust It may also be a wheel bearing
Obviously you have some dangerous brake problems and shouldn't be driving it. With that said, besides putting everyone else in danger, as well as yourself, your heating up parts that become brittle when heated, and could snap off, like a wheel. You more than likely have warped rotors, seized calipers, defective flex hoses, just for starters. Park it until you can get it checked, please!
Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full
Sounds like it was pulling before the brake job...if so the only thing you didn't replace was the rotors, I assume you turned them? and did you see hard spots on the rotor? discolored area that didn't cut the same......switch the rotors left to right and see if the problem moves or just replace them if they've been cut twice.