Question about 2003 Chevrolet Impala

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Why would using the turn signals make the engine misfire

My uncle asked me to lookat his car. I drove it and found: 1. Ignition key takes wiggling to get it to turn on. 2. The Traction light and ABS light in the dash cluster are on (the traction button on the dash doesn't do anything. The red light doesn't work when pushed) The ABS light wil turn off intermittently but comes back on. 3. When I use the turn signal to move over a lane on the highway, I can feel the engine misfire. 4. The battery light comes on when slowing down to a stop but then turns off. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

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  • 248 Answers

The common element to me is the battery - bad voltage can upset the computer.

Posted on Jan 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: turn signals and traction control are not working properly.

I had the same problem with mine.  All you have to do is replace the hazzard switch.  It costs about 40 bucks for the switch, and takes about ten minutes to replace.  Just take off the dash cover and swap them out.
Hope I helped!

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Chevy Impala Service Traction Sytem show on Dash

I can't answer the question about the gas fumes, but I had the same problem last year with the "Service Traction Sysytem" message and the Trac and ABS lights coming on in my Impala. Mine turned out to be because of a bad wheel bearing, that was causing the ABS and traction system not to work. I'm not sure if you've experienced this, but another thing that would happen with mine was that I would go to brake and have a hard time depressing the brake pedal, almost like it was pushing back. That is the point when the Trac and ABS lights came on.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: traction system light and abs light come on at same time

You still have issues with the speed sensors. The wires that connect to the hubs are known for failure.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: Service traction system and ABS light

verify all tire pressures are correct this can affect abs traction control on your vehicle

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my turn signals cut in and out

need new hazzard light switch cost arround 50 bucs

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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1 Answer

What do you think is wrong


intermittents are sometimes hard to diagnose out !! and this seems as one , im curious though what made them wiggle the relays and fuses ?? was there a previous problem there ?? depending on year of manufacture of car , is weather or not the cars own pcu can help diagnose what made car stop , as later models "remember " what there last condition was that shut off engine , of course this requires diagnostic equipment to see this info that typically car owners don't own , but a qualified service tech does and knows how to use it to find your problem

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Sounds to me like you need a new ignition switch. Take the vehicle to a mechanic and have them further evaluate.

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Have a '98 Chrysler Cirrus. Drove it home shut it off. Next morning would not start. No check engine light. No codes detected. Would turn over but not fire. One friend looked at it checked for spark at...


Try that rebooting, though I've never heard of that, I have doubts that it makes any difference, but try it anyway.
Most likely, the intermittent loss of the sensor is a wiring problem, like wires chaffed or partially burnt or broken. You know, like wires routed too close to exhaust or something like that. It would be a pain, but if you could test the wires with an ohmmeter to see if they are still good, it may help.

Remove negative battery terminal. unplug sensor connector and connector at the pcm. Use ohmmeter and test resistance of the two or three wires from sensor to pcm. While ohmmeter is connected, wiggle the wiring along it's path to detect any breaks. The resistance reading on a good wire will be very low, like under 1 ohm. Also check elec. connectors for loose pins or corrosion.

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Hello! Tell me where you placed the jumper wire?...Also is the Check Engine light on?...If it is (See photo below) push a paper clip into the 2 female pins of the OBD 1 connector...Turn on the key and count the Check Engine Light flashes...Example; 5 long flashes followed by 2 short flashes= Code 52...code list below...Guru...saailer

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
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Code 8 Top dead center sensor
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Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
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Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
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check the fuse under the fuse box in the engine compartment. it's the main fuse for all components on the care. should be able to locate it under that fuse box.

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I have had this same problem on 4 of my Jeeps. A locksmith provided me with two answers.
This key thing happens to me at least once a week.
It is a common problem with Jeeps. 1998 Wrangler, 2007 Cherokee and two 2000 Cherokees all had the issue.


1. Replace the tumbler assembly. $150. USD (Not!)
2. Place the key in the ignition, smartly impact the key on the **** end, end that is sticking out of the ignition. (Harder is not better) strike straight on as to not break the key off. 4 or 5 strikes should fix the problem every time.

FYI - flooding the switch with WD-40 will not fix the issue, it is a tumbler problem.

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Last night I checked the battery and it was still good. I disconnected and then reconn ected both terminals and that brought the power back. When I turned the key the power went out again. I repeated the procedure but did not turn the key. Instead, I took off the knee bolster and tried to wiggle the wires under the dash to see if I could find the source since it seems to be related to the ignition. Nothing cut the power so I started it up and it worked fine except for the check engine light which was flashing that says I have a misfire condition. I drove the car 25 miles to work this morning and will be taking it to the dealer for a better inspection.

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