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if trans changed out and no movement and front is not freewheeling did you check and or dropped out the transfer case to check if stuck damaged or engaged ---or the new transmission is operational ---check the 4x4 actuator to see what position it is in or pull it out and check if damaged or stuck --lastly have you pulled the covers off the front and rear axles to make sure their nor frozen or damaged -do the transfer case check first disconnect the front driveshaft and check for freewheel do the same with rear driveshaft and rear with axles off and transmission in neutral try to turn tailshaft of transmission than try yoke of transfer case if any of these units dont move than thats where you check for problem
Drain the case, remove the drive shaft, remove the bolts that hold the two case halves together and gently pry the case apart, it will be difficult to seperate. Once the rear tail half is off take it to a machine shop and have the bushing replaced, you can't do it at home without special tools.
The easiest way to check is put a piece of cardboard under your vehicle when it is parked in one spot.Then look for where the drip is coming from.Fluild leaks can be tricky because when you drive,the wind blows the fluid back towards the rear of the car.The fluid lines run to your radiator for cooling when you are driving your car.They can leak at either the radiator or at the transmission if so,take them loose and wrap them with teflon tape then tighten back down.. Also your pan gasket can leak which is a simple fix with some rtv sealer and a new gasket.Or you can have either a tailshaft seal leak or a front pump seal leak.The tailshaft seal is in the rear of the ****** where it meets the drivetrain.The front seal is up by the engine and the ****** would have to come out to replace that.Depending on the leak,you might try so transmission sealer additive just to see if it stops.
Remove transfer case shield. Remove clamp on boot where front drive shaft meets transfer case. use a flat screwdriver to pry free end up and release clamp. (you need a special clamp tool to reinstall clamp ) Remove 4 bolts at differential end that hold U joint Retainers to yoke. Slide drive shaft to rear enough to clear yoke. then let drive shaft drop so it clears differential and slide forward until it come off transfer case shaft.
It isn't too bad if you have done wrenching on other things.
Both driveshafts need to come off,
the crossmember and mount need to come off,
I believe the Y pipe or the left side of the Y pipe need to come off as they are in the way,
a few wiring connections,
support the trans at a certain height so the tranfer case isn't sitting on the rear crossmember, remove the six bots on the front of the transfer case, slide backward off the splines and tip the front downward and out.
You mean between the case halves? It is just silicon, no gasket. These are good for the pump wearing a hole in the rear housing and leaking oil. The cure for it is a new rear housing and a piece called a case saver that keeps the pump from doing it again. Taking the transfer case apart to fix it is easy, I can tell you how to do it.
The most common thing to go wrong with chevy transfercase is the rear tailshaft has a snap ring that breakes. Just remove the bolts holding it on and inspect the shaft and see if the snap ring is broken.Then just replace it with a new on from the dealer.