Question about 2002 Lincoln Blackwood

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Tonneau want open

Checked all fuses replaced electric motor in drivers side quarter panel in cargo compartment still want work !

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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emissionwiz
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SOURCE: power tonneau cover "dead"

I changed a tonneau cover module 2 years ago or so. It is a major pain in the a$$ to replace. You have to take a lot of panels off, and those stainless steel panels are razor sharp. I cut my hands up pretty good. But you pretty much can't completely take the back stainless steel panel off and have to pry it up and try to reach your hands under it. I had the detailed instructions from some service manual or some online manual. But even they were not as good as they should have been. I had to do some guessing here and there.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

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I have a 07 G6 2.4 auto the car will rev up fine in park or neutral but when in gear it wont rev past 1500rpm and wont go over 15 mph and the radio quit working


check engine control box.
The engine compartment fuse block is located on the driver side of the engine compartment, near the battery. 42 Transmission Control Module Battery
check
The rear compartment fuse block is located in the trunk of the vehicle. Access the fuse block through the trunk panel on the driver side of the rear cargo area.
20 Cigarette Lighter, Auxiliary Power Outlet
check
The instrument panel fuse block is located on the passenger side of the vehicle, on the lower portion of the instrument panel console near the floor.
RADIO Audio System 5 across top down 4. right side
check these fuse.

Apr 30, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have power to the door lock switches on the drivers door but the locks do not work nor does the back hatch or the switch at the back hatch that controls all the locks in the vehicle. Do the locks g


Power Door Locks Circuit Description
The power door lock system incorporates door lock switches on both front doors and on the RH D-pillar, door lock motors in all passenger doors and in the RR cargo door, a door lock relay and a door lock control module.
Power for the door lock switches and the door lock control module is supplied from the CIG LTR fuse 13 through CKT 640 (ORN). Power for the door lock relay is supplied from the PWR ACCY circuit breaker through CKT 540 (ORN). Ground for the door lock relay is supplied from G202 through CKT 150 (BLK) and ground for the door lock control module is supplied from G400 through CKT 150 (BLK).
The door lock motors are reversible and both sides are connected to the normally closed contacts of the door lock relay. Those contacts of the relay are connected to G202. When any of the door lock switches are placed in the lock position, voltage is supplied through CKT 195 (LT BLU) to the relay lock coil. Since the other side of the lock coil is connected to ground, the coil is energized and it pulls the lock contacts closed. Voltage is then supplied through CKT 295 (GRY) to all the door lock motors and the doors lock. The unlock function operates in much the same manner except that when any of the switches are placed in the unlock position, voltage is supplied through CKT 194 (WHT) to the unlock coil of the relay and CKT 294 (TAN) supplies voltage to the apposite side of the door lock motor and the doors unlock.
Door Lock Control Module Description
The door lock control module is used on vehicles equipped with cargo doors. The purpose of the module is to lock the cargo doors after a lock cycle has been commanded from any of the door lock switches with the cargo doors open. When the RH cargo door is open, the module receives a ground signal from the closed contacts of the rear door jamb switch on CKT 1897 (ORN/BLK) to G400. When a lock command is received, the module retains this input until it receives an open input from the rear door jamb switch. Then the module sends a lock command through CKT 194 (WHT) to the door lock relay and the doors lock.
Rear Cargo Doors Description
The power door lock motor will not operate unless the rear cargo doors are fully closed. The power door lock motor is in the right cargo door. The contactors are on the rear cargo door opening on the body and on the right cargo door.

May 23, 2017 | 1997 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Where is the factory amplifier on gmc envoy 2003


For the XL - The AMP is located on the drivers side, behind the left rear trim panel.

1. Remove the cargo shelf. 2. Tumble the third row seats to the cargo position. 3. Remove the left body side window rear garnish molding.4. 4. Remove the left body side window forward garnish molding. 5. Remove the liftgate sill plate. 6. Remove the left rear door sill panel. 7. Remove the lower seat belt anchor bolt. 8. Remove the auxiliary power outlet from the trim panel. Release the five screws that retain the rear quarter trim panel to the body. 9. Remove the rear quarter trim panel from the vehicle.

If you don't have the XL then the AMP is located on the passenger side.
1. Remove the screw that retains the trim panel to the body. 2. Remove the cargo net retaining knobs. 3. Remove the bolt that retains the seat belt upper guide to the body. 4. Remove the rear upper quarter trim panel from the vehicle. 5. Remove the cargo shade/cover. 6. Remove the inflator access panel. 7. Remove the right rear quarter upper trim panel. 8. Remove the liftgate sill plate. 9. Remove the right rear door sill panel. 10. Remove the lower seat belt anchor bolt. 11. Release the retaining clips that retain the trim panel to the body. 12. Partially remove the trim panel in order to remove the inflator switch from the inflator bezel. 13. Remove the auxiliary air outlet washer and retaining nut. 14. Feed the auxiliary air outlet through the inflator bezel. 15. Remove the inflator bezel from the trim panel. 16. Disconnect the the 12-volt power supply electrical connector. 17. Remove the 12-volt power supply. . 18. Remove the trim panel from the vehicle. 19. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the radio speaker amplifier. 20. Remove the 4 bolts that retain the radio speaker amplifier to the body. 21. Remove the radio speaker amplifier from the body.

Mar 16, 2011 | 2003 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Electric windows dont move up or down on my honda accord


If the windows don't work, any of several issues is likely to blame, including no electricity, bad switches, bad motor, damaged window regulator, or even a broken wire.

Automotive power windows use a switched motor to operate a mechanical window regulator. This regulator moves the pane of glass into the door.

To check and confirm the fault try this procedure:--

1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and replace if faulty.
2)
Test the wiring harnesses from the fuse panel to the switches and from the switches to the window regulator motor. If the circuits test fine, then proceed to the next step. If a wiring harness is shorted or damaged, it will need to be replaced.3) Remove and test the switches on the driver's side door panel. Pry them up with a screwdriver and pull them free of the panel's opening. Disconnect the switch assembly from the wiring harness by pulling the adapter plug from the assembly. Test the switches individually by touching both sides of one switch with the circuit tester. Each switch will have two terminals, and if the tester is positive on both terminals while the window is activated, then the switch is good. Replace the switch assembly if any of the switches fails the test. Most power window switches come in assembled modules and cannot be replaced individually.4) Remove and test (if possible) the power window motor. Turn the armrest bolts and interior door handle screws counterclockwise, then pull the door panel free from the pop rivets. Behind the panel are a window regulator, the window glass, and the electric driver motor. The motor is usually located in the lower right section of the door. Unplug the motor from the wiring harness and unbolt it from the window regulator by turning the bolts counterclockwise. Pull the motor straight out, away from the gears. And check out if motor is receiving exact 12 volts at the terminals. If not then either motor is faulty or there is a confirm short if motor is replaced.

5) If all the above mentioned possibilities are checked out ok then the window regulator needs to be checked. Inspect the window regulator's joints for rust or stiff movement, if the electrical system is operating correctly. These joints can corrode or break, causing the window to stop working. With the door panel off, the window regulator can be removed and replaced by sliding the glass away from the track mounts, then turning all mount bolts counterclockwise and manipulating the regulator out of the door.

Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Sep 16, 2010 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear wiper and window does not work


If the windows don't work, any of several issues is likely to blame, including no electricity, bad switches, bad motor, damaged window regulator, or even a broken wire.
Automotive power windows use a switched motor to operate a mechanical window regulator. This regulator moves the pane of glass into the door.
To check and confirm the fault try this procedure:--
1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and replace if faulty.
2)
Test the wiring harnesses from the fuse panel to the switches and from the switches to the window regulator motor. If the circuits test fine, then proceed to the next step. If a wiring harness is shorted or damaged, it will need to be replaced.3) Remove and test the switches on the driver's side door panel. Pry them up with a screwdriver and pull them free of the panel's opening. Disconnect the switch assembly from the wiring harness by pulling the adapter plug from the assembly. Test the switches individually by touching both sides of one switch with the circuit tester. Each switch will have two terminals, and if the tester is positive on both terminals while the window is activated, then the switch is good. Replace the switch assembly if any of the switches fails the test. Most power window switches come in assembled modules and cannot be replaced individually.4) Remove and test (if possible) the power window motor. Turn the armrest bolts and interior door handle screws counterclockwise, then pull the door panel free from the pop rivets. Behind the panel are a window regulator, the window glass, and the electric driver motor. The motor is usually located in the lower right section of the door. Unplug the motor from the wiring harness and unbolt it from the window regulator by turning the bolts counterclockwise. Pull the motor straight out, away from the gears. And check out if motor is receiving exact 12 volts at the terminals. If not then either motor is faulty or there is a confirm short if motor is replaced.
5) If all the above mentioned possibilities are checked out ok then the window regulator needs to be checked. Inspect the window regulator's joints for rust or stiff movement, if the electrical system is operating correctly. These joints can corrode or break, causing the window to stop working. With the door panel off, the window regulator can be removed and replaced by sliding the glass away from the track mounts, then turning all mount bolts counterclockwise and manipulating the regulator out of the door.


Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Aug 16, 2010 | 2004 Toyota Sequoia

1 Answer

Windows not working


If the windows don't work, any of several issues is likely to blame, including no electricity, bad switches, bad motor, damaged window regulator, or even a broken wire.
Automotive power windows use a switched motor to operate a mechanical window regulator. This regulator moves the pane of glass into the door.
To check and confirm the fault try this procedure:--
1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and replace if faulty.
2) 
Test the wiring harnesses from the fuse panel to the switches and from the switches to the window regulator motor. If the circuits test fine, then proceed to the next step. If a wiring harness is shorted or damaged, it will need to be replaced.3) Remove and test the switches on the driver's side door panel. Pry them up with a screwdriver and pull them free of the panel's opening. Disconnect the switch assembly from the wiring harness by pulling the adapter plug from the assembly. Test the switches individually by touching both sides of one switch with the circuit tester. Each switch will have two terminals, and if the tester is positive on both terminals while the window is activated, then the switch is good. Replace the switch assembly if any of the switches fails the test. Most power window switches come in assembled modules and cannot be replaced individually.4) Remove and test (if possible) the power window motor. Turn the armrest bolts and interior door handle screws counterclockwise, then pull the door panel free from the pop rivets. Behind the panel are a window regulator, the window glass, and the electric driver motor. The motor is usually located in the lower right section of the door. Unplug the motor from the wiring harness and unbolt it from the window regulator by turning the bolts counterclockwise. Pull the motor straight out, away from the gears. And check out if motor is receiving exact 12 volts at the terminals. If not then either motor is faulty or there is a confirm short if motor is replaced.
5) If all the above mentioned possibilities are checked out ok then the window regulator needs to be checked. Inspect the window regulator's joints for rust or stiff movement, if the electrical system is operating correctly. These joints can corrode or break, causing the window to stop working. With the door panel off, the window regulator can be removed and replaced by sliding the glass away from the track mounts, then turning all mount bolts counterclockwise and manipulating the regulator out of the door.
 
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 10, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

On a 2003 Ford E250 Econoline van with electric door locks...is it possible to disconnect the rear and side cargo doors from being electrically controlled so that only a key can open them? How would I do...


Hi! Yes its possible if manual you want it to be. Try this, If the cargo doors have separate fuse from the fuse box then just remove the fuse and it would work manually. If you wont find the door fuse then you should work on the door manually. Open the cargo door trimming and you will find a motor inside the door. The motor has a connector that leads to the lock. Remove the connector to cut the power supply to the motor and you'll be on manual now. Hope this helps and have a good one!

Apr 27, 2010 | Ford E-250 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Tonneau Cover won't open


Check your fuse box....unless you hear it trying to close or open, function whatever... but im sure you have a blown fuse. especially if they stoped working at the same time.

Feb 27, 2010 | 1994 Audi Cabriolet

1 Answer

Accessory outlets do work.


Are you saying that the cargo compartment 12v outlet quit working? If so it has its own fuse.. its on the back side of the fuses you can access with the driver door open. you have to lay down in your floor boards and look up! hard to find, only like 4 fuses there.

Jun 06, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

2001 Pontiac Montana Rear heat blows only cold air???


The rear temp blend door is stuck in the cold position ,very common problem on vehicles with rear HVAC units . There is no valve , electric actuator !
Air Temperature Actuator
The air temperature actuator is a 3 wire bi-directional electric motor. Ignition 3 voltage, ground and control circuits enable the actuator to operate. The control circuit uses a 0-12 volt linear-ramped signal to command the actuator movement. The 0 and 12 volt control values represent the opposite limits of the actuator range of motion. The values in between 0-12 volts correspond to the positions between the limits.
When the HVAC control module sets a commanded, or targeted, value, the control signal is set to a value between 0-12 volts. The actuator shaft rotates until the commanded position is reached. The module will maintain the control value until a new commanded value is needed.

You would need to remove the
Quarter Lower Rear Trim Panel
Remove the rear seats. Refer to Rear Seat Replacement in Seats.
Remove the back body pillar trim. Refer to Upper Rear Trim Finish Panel Replacement .
Remove the body side upper trim panel. Refer to Third Pillar Trim Replacement .

Remove the cup holder from the rear quarter trim.
Remove the rear accessory panel from the left side quarter panel. Refer to Rear Accessory Panel Replacement .
Remove the retainer bolt from the seat belt retractor. Refer to Rear Seat Belt Retractor Replacement in Seat Belts.
Remove the upper cargo net retainers. Refer to Cargo Net Replacement in Body Rear End.
Remove the liftgate sill plate. Refer to Liftgate Door Sill Plate Replacement .
Using J 38778 remove the rear quarter trim panel retainers.
Remove the rear quarter trim panel from the vehicle.
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Oct 14, 2017 | 2001 Pontiac Montana

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