Question about 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
The heater only blows out clod air
There is a reason for your problem? have you replaced any components in the coolant system?
I/We need more information to help you and you make it very difficult for my colleagues to respond with the correct advice, a very short and brief description make it very hard for us to diagnose.
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So, if you've possibly upset your cooling system? you may need to bleed it as an Air lock could be the/ your problem
Set the vehicle on level ground, From cold remove coolant filler cap, start engine and leave to idle, turn heater blower on max and heat to full!
Have plenty of hot water available, keep clear of coolant filler! hopefully gurgling and a boil over will occur at operating temperature, wait! top up with hot water and wait again as it may do this a few times.
IF settled? and heat through interior then replace coolant cap and hopefully problem sorted?
If not! investigation in the cylinder head/gasket area is possibly required?
I do hope this helps?
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Posted on Jan 24, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you recently had any thing done with the cooling system theres more than likely an air pocket in it.Let the engine cool down and remove the coolant cap and make sure it is full ..With the cap off squeeze the lines going into the cab which are black hoses about the size of your thumbs plus a little bigger.after doing that make sure you coolant is full and put cap back on and you should have heat continuously. Even if theres wasnt any work done on the truck it still could get air pockets in it.This should help you....
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
You need to check the heater core it has two hoses going to it feel of them if one is hot and the other cold heater core is stopped up replace it or flush it out if they are both hot it can be the switch or a vacuum line the vacuum line will be on the passenger side under the hood where the airconditioner hoses go in the body
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
SOURCE: 2003 Galant heater just stopped
There is an electric motor that turns heater core on and off. It's located under the dash to the left of the glove box. Some dis-assembly required. The part will cost about $120 to $180. part number is #MR958603. I saved money by purchasing it on line. It is a stocking part at most Mitsubishi dealers. Once you pull the glove box out and remove the bottom half of the dash all the way across, you should be able to gain access to the motor to replace it. Caution: if you do not put everything back in correctly and tie/tape it all back down carefully in the correct places you will have lots of under the dash noises when you are done.
Posted on Nov 11, 2010
First, I guess you realize that the heater is part of your engine cooling system. Then it also has its own parts inside the vehicle that have absolutely nothing to do with the engine cooling system.
The trick to getting your heater working is to first determine which part of the heater system has the problem.
First, you need to verify proper engine cooling system operation. There is more to this than just replacing a thermostat. If you have a problem like a blown head gasket, you r heater will not work. What SHOULD be done is to operate the engine while watching the computer data for the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT). Doing This, you can verify that the engine is warming up to operating temperature. You can also verify that the thermostat is opening at the correct temperature. Then take an infrared thermometer and take a manual reading from the engine near the temperature sensor. The reading you get from the thermometer should be within about 5 degrees of the reading that the computer is getting from the ECT. The engine cooling fans should come on between 220 and 228 Deg. F. When they do come on, the air that is blowing through the radiator should be HOT. If it is not, this is an indication that the radiator is stopped up, the water pump is not pumping correctly, or there is a blown head gasket that is filling your cooling system with combustion gasses. This can be done with just the thermometer, but it is best to also verify the ECT computer data.
If all of this is working properly, then it is time to look INSIDE the car for the problem. The blend-air door in your A/C-heater housing may not be working. When you switch the temperature control inside the car, you should be able to HEAR a change in the air flow. This applies to ALL vehicles, whether they are equipped with cable, vacuum, or electronically controlled blend air doors. If you cannot hear a difference in the sound of the air moving through the A/C-Heater housing, then chances are pretty good that the problem is with your blend-air door. If this seems to be the problem, let me know and I can give you further instructions on how to check this and/or repair the problem.
P.S. Just thought I'd mention that a pretty good infrared thermometer can be purchased at any parts store for around $40.....This is a very good investment because you can use it for many other things and is a lot cheaper than an hour of diagnostic time at most repair shops.
Posted on Dec 05, 2011
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