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Best case scenario bad vacuum pressure to the brake booster. Worst case bad abs control module or valve body/motor the abs system works by add and removing hydraulic pressure through valves and electric motor. Try using block off plugs at the master cylinder( remove lines plug outlets at master cylinder) check if brake pedal position and pressure is good(if there is no change problem is master cylinder or brake booster/ vacuum) if plugging at master cylinder solved issue repeat procedure at abs valve body after reinstalling lines from master cylinder if your problem returns your issue is in the abs valve body if plugging at the abs solves problem reconnect at the valve body bleed each line one by one testing between each line until you find the problem
Start with bleeding master cylinder, have some one pump pedal 3-6 times while lines at master are tight then loose fittings at master a few sec then snug repump aft each snug untill all bubbles are out you have to do both lines,
Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.
If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....
Is the master cylinder good? a bad master can cause this also did you bleed the master first before bleeding at the wheel and also make sure the bleeder screw is clean, if the hose is good then theres only a few things, a bad master or a master that wasnt bleed, try bleeding the master first then try rebleeding the brakes.
Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...
FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....
Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.
Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.
For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
Tighten the line connection(s).
Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).
Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.
Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.
If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.
During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.
Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.
Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.
Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.
try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons
loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal
do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line