Question about 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

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Brake Pedal not always releasing

I replaced Master Cylinder & booster because brake pedal would not release after applying brakes. After Bleeding all lines I still have same problem. What do you suggest?

Frank

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Sounds like the calipers are siezed, Suggest a full brake service to free them off.

TL

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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Need to know procedure for bleeding master cylinder and lines.


There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

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How to bleed brakes on a 2000 toyota tundra


Start with bleeding master cylinder, have some one pump pedal 3-6 times while lines at master are tight then loose fittings at master a few sec then snug repump aft each snug untill all bubbles are out you have to do both lines,

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99 ford explorer brake pedal goes to floor. Booster or master cyl. ?


Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.

If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....

Mar 03, 2011 | 1999 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

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For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

How do you disconnect the brakebooster rod from the brake pedal on a 1998 4x4 z71chevy truck? how do you take the plastic conector off?? pics would help


  1. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Use line wrenches and remove the brake lines on the master cylinder. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Lay it down with the line holes up to prevent leakage. The brake activator rod must be removed next---this is attached to the top of the brake pedal arm.
  2. There are two types of brake light switches. One is mounted remotely and has a button that is depressed by the brake pedal when it is released that creates an open circuit and turns the lights off. When the brake pedal is depressed, the button is released and allowed to extend, creating a completed circuit and turning the brake lights on. These are adjustable. All that needs to be done to adjust these switches is to adjust them where they are making contact with the arm of the brake pedal when the pedal is released. The second type is a switch that is directly attached to the brake pedal where the activator rod and pedal arm are attached with a through pin.
  3. Remove the bottom portion of the driver's side dash to gain access to the activator rod. Remove the clip or spring lock from the side of the pin holding the activator rod to the brake pedal. Disconnect the electrical connector to the brake light switch. Rotate the switch upward and dislodge the brake activator rod from the brake pedal arm. Remove the electrical switch. Using a long 3/8-inch drive extension with a swivel and a 15 mm socket, remove the four nuts under the dash on the firewall holding the brake booster to the firewall. Unplug the vacuum line to the booster and remove the vacuum booster from the firewall.
  4. Install the new booster, keeping the brake activator rod on the inboard side of the brake pedal arm. Go under the dash and install the nuts retaining the booster to the firewall and tighten. Install the brake switch over the brake pedal. Hold the electrical end up while the activator rod is pulled and inserted over the retaining pin on the brake pedal arm.
  5. Install the retaining clip on the retaining spring and connect the electrical connector to the switch. Install the lower dash panel. Install the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Install the master cylinder and tighten the nuts. Install the brake lines to the master cylinder and attach the electrical connector. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.
  6. Have someone sit in the car while you loosen the front brake line on the master cylinder. Have the person helping push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there. Once the pedal is to the floor, tighten the brake line and repeat the procedure for the rear line. Recheck the level in the master cylinder and fill with brake fluid as needed.

Oct 29, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

How to remove power booster 1998 chevrolet pickup


It should be bolted on. Depending on the model, things might look different, but a socket wrench set should be all that is required.
Maybe a pry bar.

Power Boosters Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum assisted power brake system to multiply the braking force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always available when the engine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is located on the front of the master cylinder and assists the driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into moving the brake pedal.
The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the diaphragm housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuum brakes assist will not be lost.
Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum source and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes. When the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to both sides of the diaphragm and springs return the diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the released position.
If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the brakes without any power assistance. The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that the pedal feels harder than usual.

Jul 05, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Is there a special way to bleed the brake system on a 2001 catera


  1. Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
  2. With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.

Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level. Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
  1. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
  2. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
  3. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
  4. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
  5. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
  6. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
  7. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat these steps until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
  8. Repeat this procedure with the LEFT FRONT, then LEFT REAR and finally the RIGHT FRONT.
  9. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
  10. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

Feb 27, 2010 | 2001 Cadillac Catera

1 Answer

Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking


it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms

Aug 16, 2009 | 2006 Fiat 124

1 Answer

Need help in bleeding brakes on 92


Always start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Have someone sit behind wheel and pump the brake pedal 5 times and hold the fifth pump to the floor. The other person, while the pedal is still held to the floor, opens the bleeder valve and releases all fluid and air and closes the valve. Then and only then does the person behind the wheel release the brake pedal. Repeat this process at each wheel until no sign of air bubbles are present in the fluid. Then move to the next closest wheel to the master cylinder. Be sure to periodically check and refill the brake fluid in the master cylinder. Good luck!

Apr 18, 2009 | 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis

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