Question about Cars & Trucks
Hello everyone and thank you for this forum it's been more than four months that I have a problem with hot start my ford fiesta 2007 1.25 Duratec 16V petrol, let me explain the problem, cold car starts normally, because I think that helps the car starter to start, hot and stop directly after the engine started if I want to start it as normal but it should not exceed 15 minutes I or 20 minutes, if I stop the car more than 15 minutes or 20 minutes after I circulated can not start the car unless I press the accelerator for the help, I brought in my ford he changed the fuel filter plugs and cleaning the butterfly, they performed a CT scanner shows no error, but the problem persists, I remmener at a garage I tried another coil ignition harness another fiesta and my coil in my car the other coil works very well in the other fiesta, he told me that I have a problem in the butterfly. I do not know what to do everything is normal in my fiesta acceleration even cold start unless warm start after I leave the car stopped 15mn to 20mn or more prayer helped solved this problem, I even change the battery. when I add fuel to the product wynn's ANTI CONDENSATION problem disappear only to the treated fuel ends
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: surging while driving
This is a notorious problem with the Windstars. There are oodles of ground straps in them. Make sure they are all clean and tight. ESPECIALLY THE STARTER GROUND STRAP. If it's loose, the car may just die when you turn up into a driveway or parking lot or just go over a bump. If you notice the "Check Engine" light comes on momentarily, at the time of the surge or the engine kills completely, it's DEFINITELY the starter ground strap! My engine used to kill at odd times -- even when on the freeway going at 75!-- Then we'd go over another bump and SURGE_O_RAMA, the engine's running again or I'd restart it and it would be fine for a while. What's happening is the loose ground strap loses it's connection when you go over a bump in the road. The next bump jogs it back into the connected mode, albeit tenuous at best. All of the computer techs couldn't find the problem. It took a 70-year old seat-of-the-pants mechanic to make the SIMPLE fix. It took so long to find the common-sense mechanic, however, that the down-shot of all of the surging tanked my tranny, which I had to have rebuilt! AND then, after I drove away from the 5-star AAA BBB "transmissing" shop, I found that THEY HAD NOT TIGHTENED ALL OF THE GROUND STRAPS! I took it back. They had no knowledge of ALL 9(?) ground straps and had to take it to THEIR mechanic who tightened them ALL down! It's been 5 years since then and I haven't had another problem with it. RULE OF THUMB: EVERY TIME YOU HAVE THE VAN SERVICED have them tighten-down ALL of the ground straps! If your mechanic doesn't know what you are talking about, go find a new mechanic. Generally, the AAA "Top Shops" are your best bet. They fix things right the FIRST time. I still haven't found a manual that has all of the ground straps listed, by the way.
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
SOURCE: My 1989 Mercedes Benz 300E
The inside of the ignition dealer (Delco) must be thoroughly cleaned and all metal parts passed with fine metal wool. Sparkplugs must also be cleaned or renewed. The air inlet-valve is very sensitive. The cylinder and the disc must be carefully cleaned with light metal wool and contact cleaner. The fault is due to the disc remaining stuck in the cylinder, so no idle function and malfunction of the auto-choke system. If this solution does not work, then the vacuum pressure is defective.Hint from a German Mercedes specialist.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
hi,seem all part have been check,to check further,you need to use a pressure gauge, to check the lower and upper chamber of your fuel distributor,only dealer have the tools,valve clearance is a hydraulic valve,no need to adjust,seem your car start,engine timing is ok,ty
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
Another place to look is your IAC, or Idle air control valve. It is bolted to the back of the intake manifold, and can be removed and cleaned. It is usually the cause of most Honda Idle problems.
Posted on Apr 18, 2010
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