Question about Chevrolet Blazer
My car makes a vibration or jet engine sound when driving over 40mph it also just started making a clicking sound when i turn my wheel all the way to park my car.
The vibration or jet engine sound as you described it sounds like to me could be wheel bearing they tend to make a growling sound the faster you go. The clicking sound while turning could be cv axle if your vehicle is equipped with them if not could it be 4x4 it would still be a wheel axle. You need to have it checked and pin point which wheel is causing the sound.
Posted on Jan 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
this is either a loose belt, or low power steering fluid. Remember that Honda uses a diffrent power steering fluid from everyone else. Make sure it is a Honda compatable fluid, or you will get leaks.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
This sounds like one or more of your motor/powerplant mounts is broken. Here is an easy test:
Have someone sit in the driver's sear with engine running and trans. in Park.
You stand in front with the hood open. Have them shift from Park to Reverse, and then Drive and back to Reverse and Park, taking time to stay in each gear and give some throttle while holding the brake pedal tight. This will rock or move the engine a certain amount as they shift through the gears and apply power lightly. It will move alot more violently with broken mounts.
If you have a clunking noise on Reverse shifts, you should be able reproduce this with the hood up and pinpoint the noise and/or sight the faulty motor mount with a friend's help. Good luck, I hope this puts you on the right track to fixing this annoying noise.
Sincerely, Tater Todd
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. This should solve this. nutetral is for the four lo only to engage.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
Slim possibility it could be a bearing too. When it's not under load and is free-wheeling (2wd) the stress on the hub assembly changes, making the clicking more noticeable. When under a load, being driven, the pressure on the bearing would be more steady (in 4wd) and might make it less noticeable, if at all.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
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