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Hearing air when i pump my brakes and it feels like there not working properly could the be wet

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Could be a leaking power brake booster.

Posted on Jan 16, 2013

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3 Answers

Very little brake pedal, no brake fluid leaks


fil the reservoir and bleed the brake system

Nov 27, 2013 | 1986 Dodge Aries 4 Door

2 Answers

Brake problem.


bleed the brakes again starting form the longest line back to the shortest
if you have been getting a pulsing feeling at the pedal under normal brakes you have warped rotors that need replacing or machining
under normal brakes the abs is not effective and it is only under sever brakes that you will experience the pulsations at the pedal

May 15, 2017 | 2005 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Brake booster appears not to be working properly. brakes work ok for 1 or 2 apps then pedal gets hard. cannot hear any vacume leaks. the car does have a vacume switch in the booster


the booster is the problem, or a hole or leak in vacuum line to booster check the check valve also ! from manifold. heres the symtoms of a bad brake booster. primary symtom is a hard pedal on application, to test booster. pump brakes several times with engine off. to deplete stored vacuum. turn on engine with pushing slightly on brake pedal. you should feel the pedal fade away abit and then become firm. but not hard. if you feel nothing at pedal when engine starts, brake booster is not working! check the vacuum lines first!!

Jun 11, 2011 | 1985 Pontiac 6000

3 Answers

Losing break peddle when stopping


You may have a fluid leak, look for any puddles where you park or wetness on the inside of your wheels. Also make sure that there is enough fluid in the fluid reservoir. This is a pretty serious issue as you could lose your brakes altogether if there is a leak or lack of fluid. I would not drive the vehicle and have it towed to a shop where they can find whatever is leaking. Alternatively, you could have air in the system which causes a somewhat spongy brake pedal feel. This could happen if the brakes were not bled properly after a brake job was completed. Either way, it is dangerous to drive in this condition and really should be dealt with ASAP.

Apr 04, 2011 | 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

I replaced the drivers side rear caliper and brakes feel soft and slowly go to close to floor when pressed. Bled caliper several times but pedal still doesnt feel right. There doesnt seem to be any more...


Check line on caliper you replaced it may not be tight enough and letting air into system.if this is not your problem rebleed brakes do not pump brake pedal while bleeding brakes. if you are not aware of how to properly bleed brakes email me at ken17402@msn.com and I will fill you in.

Nov 20, 2010 | Volkswagen Rabbit Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My chevy lumina and when you go down the road the brakes start to rub and can smell them burning pressure builds up in the brakes the more you drive


Sounds like a typical frozen brake caliper situation.
First thing to do is not drive this car any further as you may have severe problems on the road, using either a car lift or a floor jack and safety jack supports, locate by eye and/or by smell which wheel is burning and smoking,example: If the passenger front brake is the one at fault, you will need to replace "both front brake pads, possibly both front disc brake rotors and if the disc brake caliper has a frozen piston on the right front, both front disc brake calipers(which can be simply determined by trying to squeeze the piston back with a large clamp or special tool that is made specifically for this and is easily obtained and easy to use from any parts store(Auto Zone or the like ) may even lend you some of the tools you need if you buy the parts from them...how cool is that?
If the caliper piston won't press back into its bore, it needs to be replaced and always replace both calipers not one side, the same with replacing the brake pads, example: right front caliper and brake pads are defective, replace also the left front caliper and pads as well, to allow for a proper stopping action, be sure to replace the disc brake rotors when changing brake pads as well.
Also while inspecting the vehicles brake system check the brake hoses(Heavy rubber lines that connect from a metal brake connector to the back side of your brake caliper, each wheels brake caliper or (wheel cylinder,used on the older drum brake systems) has a brake hose) look for cracks and leaks in the hoses, replace as needed.
Be certain to also check all four wheel disc brakes for signs of wear, if the brake pad (asbestos material mounted on the metal brake pad backing plate, known as the "web") looks about the thickness of the metal "web" or thinner, replace the disc pads and or drum brake pads along with the rotors(dish looking object that disc brake pads actually squeeze against to stop the car).

BLEEDING or PURGING AIR FROM THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM:

The bleeding or purging of air from the hydraulic system in any brake system requires quite a bit of knowledge and patience, however, and if purging is needed ,two persons to do the job correctly.
First be certain the vehicle is jacked off the ground and secured on jack stands, start bleeding the furthest away brake from the master cylinder which is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall and be sure you have filled the master cylinder up with the proper recommended DOT (probably DOT lll or lV) brake fluid. Put the cover on the master cylinder once you have it filled and be aware to check the fluid level after each bleeding is done.
Step1:
After all your brake replacement work is done, fill master Cyl. and secure it's cover, be sure car is safely secured with jack stands , starting with both rear brakes/wheels off the ground(furthest from master cyl) have second person pumping(pushing the brake pedal up and down without letting off the pedal) this action forces any air in the hydraulic line to find its way out.
Pump pedal this way at least four to five pumps and hold the pedal down to the floor or as far as you can push it, don't let off the pedal, the person bleeding the passenger side rear disc brake caliper (furthest brake purge valve away from the master cylinder) will say "Ok, holld the pedal down", of course after he/she first told you to "Pump it up".
Step 2:
While the pedal is held tighly down the person bleeding will have located on the back of the disc brake caliper assembly a small(1/4 or 5/16 typical hex size) bleeder valve.
The valve must be opened with the proper size box wrench allowing the air to purge out(installing a small rubber hose on the end of the bleeder valve nipple approx. 1 1/2 ft. long and having it suspended and submerged into a clear plastic jar that is 3/4 full of new brake fluid in it) you will see and hear the air release and if using the jar system(I totally recommend) you will see the air bubbles escaping out of the submerged hose. Doing it this way also will not allow air to re enter the system if the person pumping the pedal should happen to release the pedal before you tell them to. Close the bleeder valve.
Step 3: Repeat the process on each wheel at least four times or until you see no visible signs of air coming out, remember, wrench and hose (secured tightly on bleeder valve nipple and submerged in fluid) "Pump it up,(3-4 pumps)" Hold it Down", open the bleeder valve and repeat this process until each wheel has clear fluid flowing out of the bleeder purge valves. Be certain all lines and valves are closed tight.
When the system is purged of all air, the pedal will be as good as the way it was when new, dont forget with all "Power" brake systems, the brake pedals will never be all the way up to the top when pressing the pedal down, it may also feel like it is low, but after a good road test you will see that the static feel of the pedal is not the same as the actual stopping feel of the pedal on the roadway driving.
The only time the feel of the brake pedal should be questioned is if it sinks to the floor, or if you can litterally pump the pedal up a few times and on the second or third static pump(static meaning the car is not moving) the pedal is actually getting higher off the floor, then you may have air still in the system.
If so repeat all the prceedures again being sure you have the master cylinder full of fluid before after and during the entire process.


This is a hard, dirty, and lengthy job, doing it yourself will save you hundreds of dollars, but if you do not work with safety being your primary concern, all the money saved is worthless.
Please be sure to wear the proper eye/hand protection, and wear a painters mask as well.
Happy Motoring!!

May 19, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

I replaced a brake line on my 1993 olds 98 and the brakes still don't work


Did you bleed the line for air? If the break line was by the master cilinder, got to bleed all 4 tires, otherwise, got to bleed the two front or two rear tires.

If you step on the brake and feels spongy, is probably air in the lines, if it feels hard check master cilinder, if you hear an air leak, check brake booster.

Mar 02, 2010 | 1993 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight

2 Answers

Brake pump new and the brakes still hit the floor


http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/detail.htm
Will tell you if you have any recalls.
I'm assuming, when you say brake pump, you mean new master cylinder.
Most of the time, when a brake feels "soft", it has pressure problems in the line.
It sounds like the power booster unit could be broken, or you could be leaking pressure at your wheels.
Also on a similar note, I once witnessed a very spongy brake brake, that would not become more "firm" with bleeding. The person working on it was very confused as to why, and upon further inspection, I discovered a small clamp, he had forgotten to take back off the line.

Jan 07, 2010 | 2003 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Break problems


Sounds like your pads or shoes have worn out. Also your brake fuild reservoir is low and sucking air. You need a brake job and brake need to be bled.

Sep 13, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Vibration when braking that I feel through the brake pedal.


Is it possible that you are hearing the abs pump running in the engine compartment? It sounds like an ABS problem with one of your wheel speed sensors.

Mar 01, 2009 | 2005 Saturn VUE

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