2006 ford 6.0 deisal leaking oil from top rear engine a lot

The smoke is due to the leaking oil. there is a common problem where the oil hose that feeds the turbo leaks, and drips on exhaust. Open bonnet on cold engine and clean the rear part using degreaser of sprayer, start up the engine and let it idle while checking the rear . for better results i usually pull the car up on a white sheet of cardboard or paper so i can see where it drips or splutters the oil on top the paper. Turn off car about 10 minutes in and check under the car. the area where you see oil will tell you where to investigate further. Another common VW problem is the tappit cover gaskit that leaks from time to time. Remove plastic engine cover and have a look

I'm guessing you can't find it because it's in a separate housing or located under the lower battery tray in the housing (depending on model of engine). Even though this is specific for 1998; I believe it's the same for 1996-1999 Taurus's. I have access to illustrations, but only .gif and/or .bmp extensions were available which would not copy here. If you need these, I will try an extension change to .jpg. Good luck, this should be enough info. It is helpful to include the engine size in question, for future reference...

Thermostat, Water

CAUTION: Do not mix Standard (green) Coolant with Extended Life Coolant (orange). If mixing occurs, drain engine cooling system and refill with originally equipped coolant type. If this contamination occurs the service change interval on Extended Life Coolant will be reduced from 6 years/150,000 miles to 3 years/30,000 miles.
1. WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE AND/OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE, USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP FROM A HOT COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY UNTIL PRESSURE BEGINS TO RELEASE. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN CERTAIN ALL PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE PRESSURE CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP

THE ABOVE APPLIES TO ALL MODELS

3.0L (2V) Engine
Removal
Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat (8575) as described.
2.Disconnect the upper radiator hose (8260) from the water hose connection (8592) .
3.Remove the three water inlet connection retaining bolts. Remove the water hose connection .
4.Remove the gasket and water thermostat from the water hose connection . Do not reuse gasket.
Installation
1.Install the water thermostat , gasket and water hose connection as illustrated.
2.Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (89-124 lb-in).
3.Connect the upper radiator hose to the water hose connection .
4.Fill the engine cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (green), (in Oregon, F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-10), or Ford Extended Life Engine Coolant F6AZ-19544-AA (orange), or DEX-COOL coolant, or a coolant meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D and water, as described under Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding procedure.
5.Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
6.Stop the engine. Top off degas bottle as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.

3.0L (4V) Engine
Removal
Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat ; refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
2.Raise vehicle on hoist.
3.Disconnect the lower radiator hose (8286) from the water inlet connection.
4.Remove the two water inlet connection retaining bolts. Remove the water inlet connection.
5.Remove the O-ring seal and water thermostat from the water thermostat housing. Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.
6.If required, remove water thermostat housing retaining bolts, water thermostat housing and O-ring from lower radiator hose tube. Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.

Installation
1.Install the water thermostat , O-ring, water thermostat housing (if removed) as shown.
2.Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in).
3.Connect the lower radiator hose to the water inlet connection.
4.Lower vehicle.
5.Fill the engine cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (green), (in Oregon, F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-10), or Ford Extended Life Engine Coolant F6AZ-19544-AA (orange), or DEX-COOL coolant, or a coolant meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D and water; refer to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
6.Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
7.Stop the engine. Top off degas bottle as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.

3.4L SHO
Removal
Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat ; refer to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
2.Remove battery.
3.Remove power distribution box.
4.Remove battery tray.
5.Disconnect upper radiator hose and position out of the way.
6.Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water inlet connection (8K528) .
7.Remove the two retaining bolts. Remove the water inlet connection .
8.Remove the O-ring seal and water thermostat from the water pump (8501) . Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.

Thermostat

Installation
1.Install the water thermostat , O-rings and water inlet connection as illustrated.
2.Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in).
3.Connect the lower radiator hose to the water inlet connection .
4.Install upper radiator hose . Position spring clamp securely.
5.Install battery tray.
6.Install power distribution box.
7.Install battery.
8.Fill the engine cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (green), (in Oregon, F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-10), or Ford Extended Life Engine Coolant F6AZ-19544-AA (orange), or DEX-COOL coolant, or a coolant meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D and water; refer to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
9.Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
10.Stop the engine. Top off degas bottle as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.

How to change the air filter on a 2006 VW Jetta 2.0 FSI:
1. Unplug the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
2. Undo the spring clips and pull out the turbo inlet connector.
3. Remove the two T-25 screws on the air snorkle as shown below.
4. Remove the engine cover by pulling up HARD where indicated by the green circles in the photo below.
5. DO NOT APPLY ANY FORCE where indicated by the red diamonds in the photo below.
6. If it's cold weather, make sure the engine is warm so that the rubber grommets warm up and are flexible enough to come off. Cold, brittle plastic and stiff grommets will lead to a broken airbox/cover even if you otherwise do everything correctly.
7. Pull up on the rear driver's corner (near the battery box) first, then the rear corner where the MAF sensor is, then the fronts.

1. Unplug the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
2. Undo the spring clips and pull out the turbo inlet connector.
3. Remove the two T-25 screws on the air snorkle as shown below.
4. Remove the engine cover by pulling up HARD where indicated by the green circles in the photo below.
5. DO NOT APPLY ANY FORCE where indicated by the red diamonds in the photo below.
6. If it's cold weather, make sure the engine is warm so that the rubber grommets warm up and are flexible enough to come off. Cold, brittle plastic and stiff grommets will lead to a broken airbox/cover even if you otherwise do everything correctly.
7. Pull up on the rear driver's corner (near the battery box) first, then the rear corner where the MAF sensor is, then the fronts.

How to take off engine top plastic cover to get to the spark plugs:

1. Unplug the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
2. Undo the spring clips and pull out the turbo inlet connector. 3. Remove the two T-25 screws on the air snorkle as shown below. 4. Remove the engine cover by pulling up HARD where indicated by the green circles in the photo below. 5. DO NOT APPLY ANY FORCE where indicated by the red diamonds in the photo below. 6. If it's cold weather, make sure the engine is warm so that the rubber grommets warm up and are flexible enough to come off. Cold, brittle plastic and stiff grommets will lead to a broken airbox/cover even if you otherwise do everything correctly. 7. Pull up on the rear driver's corner (near the battery box) first, then the rear corner where the MAF sensor is, then the fronts.

A new turbo charger is about $340, but you can buy the bearings and seals and rebuilt if yourself for about $100
http://turbosandparts.com/
It is not hard, and it does not take long to do.

I normally do not bother with synthetic, but with a turbo charger, it might be worth it. What really seems to ruin turbo chargers the most is not letting them cool off before parking.
Once you turn off the engine, there is no longer any cooling, so the build up heat will burn up the oil and seals.
Run the engine for at least 5 minutes below turbo levels, before shutting down the engine.

1 - Remove the turbocharger intake tube
2 - Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe
3 - Remove the push pins on turbo cowl
4 - Disconnect the turbo VGT solenoid
5 - Remove the oil supply tube
6 - Using the special tool, remove the oil feed tube
7 - Remove clamp from the turbo down pipe
8 - Remove the clamp from the turbo inlet
9 - Loosen the exhaust inlet pipe-to-EGR cooler clamp
10 - Loosen the RH & LH exhaust inlet pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts
11 - Remove the rear turbocharger mounting bolt
12 - Remove the front mounting bolts
13 - Position the turbocharger and remove the turbocharger drain tube
14 - Remove the turbocharger

If you cant do it with these instructions put down your wrench and take to a dealership for a professional to work on it

some oil will leak out of the turbo and will get inside the inlet pipes but so long as the motor is not smoking and your not loosing engine oil dont worry to much about it,,a new turbo will cost more than a fuw pounds!! you would need to sell off both kidneys to buy one and maybe a leg as well???

this symptom sometimes points to a bad turbo seal leaking oil, or it could be bad valve seals if it has a lot of miles could be valve seals does engine oil dissappear quickly if it does than its could be either when hot the turbo seal expends and stops leaking . there are ways to test each problem

if your not having problems with the vehicle missing the injectors are fine. if your getting alot of oil in the uper in take chances are that the seals inside the turbo are leaking and if you have excessive blowby then perhaps a replacement of the o-rings on the injectors might be needed but i would say that 5-6 thousand sounds way off the mark as far as replacement parts and shop labor