Idles fine, but chokes out when given gas. No check engine light comes on. Thought it was water in gas and put high grade gas in and it ran fine and then started again. Replaced catalytic converter, and ran fine for two runs and then started again.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
its a faulty auto choke not sure on model so dont know if its electrical on machanical the used to be a small spring that was conected to the carbs with water running around a housing unit when the water got hot the spring contracted causing the choke to go on or off but i would bet its the auto choke
In a word, NO- don't worry about the gel. There are 2 different kinds of "goop" that is sold for installing new plugs- one is to lubricate the spark plug threads, and the other (which I think you are calling the "gel") is to lubricate the boot and direct fire coilpacks. These are for making it easier to install and replace your plugs and coilpacks....nothing more.
The flickering check engine light is indicative of a misfire condition, which makes sense since your codes said the same thing. The most common cause for this is using a non-premium grade of gasoline or a gas with a high ethanol content (very common in the Mid-West) in a high compression engine such as yours. I had a 2001 Subaru with a high compression 3.0L 6 cylinder engine that did the exact same thing.... it ran fine, but a lower grade of gas would cause a "misfire" code. This is because lower grades of gas burn hotter and the piezo sensors in your engine are very sensitive- the explosion that takes place in a cylinder is much more pronounced with a lower grade gas to the sensor, even though it sounds fine to human ears.
Fill your car with permium, then go back to autozone and have them clear the codes. You will probably not have it happen again unless you go back to a lower gas grade.... and stay away from the Idaho Gasahol!
Had exact same problem after driving 120 miles in Florida heat. After 30 minutes started but ran rough for a day and now seem fine. Thought at first fuel filter or dirty gas. Going to replace filter anyway. Is this a common problem?
If you have a carb, and nothing but a carb, you probably need to have your carb adjusted. If your carb has an automatic choke, it could be stuck. Check and make sure the choke's butterfly valve (the one in the top of the carb) is opening up once your engine has warmed up. If it doesn't, disconnect the valve from the auto choke and manually open it, that should change idle. Do not drive with the choke disconnected. Write me back if that doesnt solve the problem.
The 02 sensors are probably bad or idle is up to high. 02 sensors let the computer know to give rich/lean gas mixtures. Sounds like you engine is getting too much gas and you are getting fuel burnt after igniton is off.
Well, depending on your market of course, I'd still be fairly sure you do have a choke! It is located on the rear of the intake air plenumn chamber and has 2 small coolant hoses that come up from underneath - one comes from the thermostat housing area, and the other goes to the water pump area. Disconnect these and make sure you can blow easily through the choke unit. Like most Suzuki thermo-wax choke elements, they need hot water to contract, and in so doing, reduce the amount of extra air let into the engine. Unfortunately, it sounds like you may have adjusted the throttle stopper screw (it may have had a tamper-proof cover on it). If you have, the throttle plate-to-barrel clearance should be set back to as close as what your other car is by measuring the clearance with feeler gages. Let me know how you get on. I've got a 1991 version of the same and I'm in Australia.