Question about 1993 Chevrolet Cavalier

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How do you know if there is a problem with the fuel pump or whether or not it just requires a new fuse

My engine appears to be turning over however I know I eventually lost the battery, it has now been fully charged, yet car still won't start. Also how much could this cost me?

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  • Expert
  • 93 Answers

If you can locate the fuse you can simply replace it. If fuel pump works then it was the fuse. The manual should tell you which fuse it is.

Posted on Jan 15, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




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Posted on Aug 18, 2009

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: 40 amp ignition fuse blew.

The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.

My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?

If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:

Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!

I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???

I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!

The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)

I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)

Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.

At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.

Posted on Nov 23, 2010

SOURCE: Hello. My 1997 Chevy Tahoe

Now you have a good battery & a starter that turns over the motor

Have you cycled the key on & off with a fuel pressure gauge on the
fuel rail?

Do you have a fuel filter that isn't over 3 or 4 years old?

Have you checked for spark while cranking ? Use an old plug on the wires,
if you have ignition wires,don't ground the wire without resistance

If you removed the ducting & MAF Sensor it won't start

Tell us what you checked & exactly how that was done.

Posted on Jun 09, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Check engine light comes on.

Mine was doing that also.. We changed the two EGR valves, changed spark plugs and wires, and finally cleaned the Mass Air flow Sensor with carburetor cleaner. That seemed to helped the most. You have to take the sensor off to do it.. you can find a youtube video that explains it. Now all I have to do is figure out why my car's RPM's surge when slowing down.

Posted on Jul 04, 2011

  • 1608 Answers

SOURCE: 2009 HHR won't start. Battery is good.

Is the security light on or blinking?If not then do you have power to the starter.You can check this with a test light.You should have power when you turn the key to start.The test light should light up.Should be the small wire.I believe it is purple in color.If the security light is on then you will have to get the codes to see what is causing the no start.Hope this helps.Good luck.

Posted on Dec 07, 2011

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