Question about 1992 Jeep Wrangler

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Clutch seems to be slipping I put everything in new

I put new master slave cylinders new lines new clutch refaced fly wheel

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And new pressure plate, too? About the only thing that would cause a new clutch and pressure plate to slip would be oil or grease on the flywheel surface. Did you handle the new clutch disc a lot with your fingers and hands? Did you clean the flywheel (and disc if handled a lot) with brakekleen or similar non-residue leaving cleaner?

Posted on Jan 15, 2013

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  • Expert
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Sounds like bad clutch but that should have been replaced when fly wheel fly wheel worked on.

Posted on Jan 15, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Wrangler 2000 clutch

the slave cylinder needs to be level. get a small bubble level and jack up the front or rear appropriately till its level.

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

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SOURCE: 1990 wrangler all new slave cylinder, pressure

If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

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SOURCE: 1990 jeep wrangler just got all new master/slave

You have to bleed it at the slave cylinder not the master cylinder.Keep the bottle on the m/cyl full at all times and do not disconnect any lines.Bleed the system at the sl/cyl.Then do it again after a short drive.You still have air in the system.If you take off any m/cyl lines,you have to start all over again.
Hope this helps

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

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Were you careful not to get your hands on the face of the clutch disc too much? Any indication of oil or grease around the disc, like from a leaking rear crank seal, when you changed the clutch?
Did you bleed the slave cylinder, to get all air out of the system?

If still no help, someone will have to troubleshoot it. A new clutch should not slip, especially with the flywheel polished to smooth.

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If by pop you mean that the slave cylinder piston came out of the cylinder then I would fix that by installing a longer push rod to take up the extra length required by the slave cylinder being too far away from the clutch throw out lever (or relocate the cylinder closer to the arm. The length would be about 1/4" shorter than when the piston is fully bottomed out and that will give you a bit of free play and not let the clutch slip. Keep the fly wheel in mind but as long as the throw out bearing stays on the clutch input shaft housing then the flywheel would not solve much

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How do i get the master clinder off?? i have the lines and the bolts off but i cant pull it lose


Hello there, The slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is mounted to the very front of the transmission and is only held in place with two bolts and the hydraulic line, see item #42 (x2) and item #26 in the attached photo.You might as well let the old hydraulic fluid drain completely and fill with fresh fluid when you get done. I would take the hyraulic line off the slave cylinder and put it in a jar. Then open the master cylinder cover and let it gravity drain completely. This will allow you to replace all the parts with a minimal amount of fluid getting all over. Remember, brake fluid damages car paint!The clutch master cylinder is a little bit more tricky in that you have to get under the dash to remove the bolts holding it in. Other than that, you might have to take your old reservoir and attach it to the new master cylinder unless your new one comes with a reservoir. I doubt it will and you don't need it to anyway. Item #37 and #43 are the studs and nuts you will have to release to get the master cylinder off the firewall. Of course pulling the tube to the reservoir and the hydraulic line should be done before removing the mounting nuts. There may be a clip holding the clutch pedal linkage to the clutch master cylinder push rod.Once everything is reassembled and everything is tight, fill the master cylinder reservoir and then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You can depress the clutch pedal to force brake fluid from the master to the slave but if it goes like mine did, once I got the fluid running, it forced out all the air! I put a rubber hose over the bleeder screw and put it in a jar partially filled with brake fluid and kept adding fluid until no more air bubbles came out of the tube. You will know when everything is ok because the clutch pedal doesn't seem to want to come back up unless there is sufficient pressure in the clutch to force it back up. Buy about a quart of brake fluid to flush the lines and leave it topped off. Good luck...

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Shifter works when car is off, start car and then shifter won't go in gear. if i start vehicle in first with clutch pedal to floor, car starts going forward. mazda miata mx-5 just put new slave cylinder in...


The one item I would suspect is the through-out-bearing not completely disengaging the pressure plate from the fly wheel. If the vehicle is in neutral and you slowly depress the clutch and release it do hear a singing or whining sound? Since you cannot adjust the clutch any more the through-out-bearing is the component which moves the pressure plate from the fly wheel to stop the power from the engine to the transmission. It is difficult to shift when the engine is on because the fly wheel is still engaged and powering your transmission.

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do you mean- when you depress the clutch pedal, it goes to the floor, and you can't shift into any gear??
should have asked this first! front wheel drive or rear? i'll guess front wheel drive. may have hyd. fluid leak in master or slave. (apologize for 'terms', but as 'male & female connectors', it's traditional, non-racist and non-sexist nomenclature!!) gotta' be careful, in the 21st century!! if there are, as i stated previously, 2 similar reservoirs, close to each other, then you prob. have hydraulic clutch. may need 'master' rebuilt, or replaced, or 'slave' replaced-it can be rebuilt, but prob not cost effective!
sorry to be 'long-winded/ texted', good luck!

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You may want to read bleeding instruction at this link, it may shed some light.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b886d

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