Stuttering in idele and acceleration

SOURCE: 1992 civic hatch acceleration problem

it might just be your timing i had the same problem with my 94 hatch did have any power on first or second just had a friend adjust the timing and werks just fine.

SOURCE: 1992 honda accord stutters when accelerates

Check the catalytic converter. If the carbon monoxide cant get out, it sometimes will act like this. It plugs up over time.

Has it ever been replaced??

I did mine about 2 months before I got rid of my Civic.

By the way, the exhaust system on most Hondas is the Welded, so you have to pull off the whole line from the back of the motor to the muffler.

SOURCE: Intermittent stuttering

Hello wrob1359,

While this may seem like a fuel issue, and very well may be, let take into considerations some other possibilities, but first, lets first go ahead and cover all the fuel related possibilities:

1. Fuel Filter - has been replaced
2. Fuel Pump - car runs - so pump is good - fuel pumps don't start going out - either they work, or they don't.
3. Fuel Pump Relay and Fuel Pump Regulator - Replace these.
------OTHER POSSIBILIITES------Basic Tune Up
1. Plugs and Wires
2. If carburated, cap and rotor - point on cap may be shot, rotor may be worn or cracked
3. Harmonic Balancer - check for chunks of rubber missing or cracked (if it has rubber in it)
a. Crank Shaft Sensor - replace, or have replace (will need feeler gauge - be sure to read instructions for installation<--very crucial
b . Cam Shaft Sensor (replace - usually fairly inexpensive)
4.If equipped with coil pack(s) and modular<--coil pack(s) mount on top of this.
a. have all coil packs (if not a single, there will be 3) tested
b. if modular is white, or looks bubbled, or melted, replace it.
5. DO THIS REGARDLESS OF CAUSING ISSUE OR PART(S)
a. Check all wiring connection to battery, both posotive and negative
b. Check all connection of starter.
c. Check your ground wire at both the batter, and on the block, bracket or frame, whichever it is grounded to. If need be, disconnect Posotive, then the ground at block, bracket or frame: clean wire end, as well as the place it is bolted too: use sand paper to sand a clean area (or wire brush or both). Reconnect Ground. Reconnect Posotive.
d. Check all fuses, and relays in the fuse box - and the fuse/relay box under the hood (usually located near, or behind the battery). WARNING: When checking fuses and relays, disconnect the battery or you pose a chance of blowing them.

It is a good idea as well to purchase (or borrow) a complete service/repair manual for your year, make and model so as to have a professional reference to work by. While I am confident in my solutions, the manual may suggest some things I may have overlooked.

I hope this information is helpful in helping you get your Honda running smoothly again. Thank you for choosing fixya.com; please let me know if you have any other questions or comments, or if I can be of any further assistance.

carsandcomps
Guru, fixya.com
Oregon

SOURCE: We have a 1990 Honda civic LX 5 speed.

Try to give it a little time because you just did some work, it may need to burn out... but black smoke is an oil burning problem. even though the car will still run you dont want this problem because if oil is burning in your engine, it means oil is getting where it does not need to be witch HOPEFULLY, is just a gasket but you are not just burning fuel so it may be affecting your gas mileage!. it sounds like old gaskets!? maybe? gaskets are a **** to replace especially in a civic, and they are everywhere! i know i just took the whole engine apart and put it back together again in a 95.

As far as the heavy exhaust smell... may be a leak or crack in the manifold!

And as far as your sensors and dash lights go, save your money and dont replace any more! especially if you smell a problem and are getting only 20 miles to a gallon (especially in a honda) because the sensors are probably right!

Tim

SOURCE: 1994 honda civic 1.5 16v stalling after pressing accelerator from idle

Another place to look is your IAC, or Idle air control valve. It is bolted to the back of the intake manifold, and can be removed and cleaned. It is usually the cause of most Honda Idle problems.