Question about 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

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Where is the radiator cap on 2001 olds aurora

Look everywhere want to flush system can not find cap

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Where is the radiator cap on 2001 Olds Alero?

if you dont see a radiator cap then the cap for your resevoir tank also serves as your radiator cap, thats where you would put your radiator cleaner and dex-cool in at. it is pressurized just like a normally radiator is with a normal radiator cap on it so dont open it when its hot! the resevoir cap should also have dex-cool stamped on it

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

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  • 615 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 olds aurora 4dr rear door power window cable system broke

I can email pictures if you send me and address.
charniw@Gmail.com

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 olds aurora keeps overheating!!

My car keeps on overheating only on the highway when i reach bout 65 or 70 mph. it does fine all around town i can drive the thing all day around town non-stop, but when i hit the open road it gets hot tells me. hot turn ac off let engine idle...anyone knows the question to that let me know via email treybird_loves_basketball@hotmail.com i would really appreciate the advise or someone who knows what hell prob is.. preciate it...

Posted on Apr 12, 2010

toyladi3
  • 597 Answers

SOURCE: My 1996 olds. aurora keeps

Hello,

There are several problems that could be leading to an engine overheating. I will discuss some of them and you can try to act on which solutions that can help.

THERMOSTAT STUCK SHOT The thermostat, which is usually located in a housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, controls the operating temperature of the engine. It does this by blocking the flow of coolant from the engine to the radiator until the engine reaches a certain temperature (usually 190 to 195 degrees F.). When this temperature is reached, the thermostat opens and allows coolant to circulate from the engine to the radiator.
If the thermostat fails to open, which can happen due to mechanical failure or if a steam pocket forms under the thermostat due to incomplete filling of the cooling system or coolant loss, no coolant will circulate between the engine and radiator, and the engine will quickly overheat.
You can check for this condition by carefully touching the upper radiator hose when the engine is first started and is warming up. If the upper radiator hose does not become hot to the touch within several minutes after starting the engine, it means the thermostat is probably defective and needs to be replaced.
CAUTION: The replacement thermostat should always have the same temperature rating as the original. Do not substitute a colder or hotter thermostat on any vehicle that has computerized engine controls as engine operating temperature affects the operation of the fuel, ignition and emissions control systems.


DEFECTIVE FAN CLUTCH
On rear wheel drive vehicles with belt-driven cooling fan, a "fan clutch" is often used to improve fuel economy. The clutch is a viscous-coupling filled with silicone oil. The clutch allows the fan to slip at high speed, which reduces the parasitic horsepower drag on the engine. If the clutch slips too much, however, the fan may not turn fast enough to keep the engine cool.
The silicone fluid inside the clutch breaks down over time and can leak out due to wear, too. If you see oily streaks radiating outward on the clutch (and/or the fan can be spun by hand with little or no resistance when the engine is off), it means the clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. Any play or wobble in the fan due to wear in the clutch also signals the need for a new clutch.


EXTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS

Leaks in radiator or heater hoses, the water pump, radiator, heater core or engine freeze plugs can allow coolant to escape. No engine can tolerate the loss of coolant for very long, so it usually overheats as soon as a leak develops.
A visual inspection of the cooling system and engine will usually reveal where the coolant is going.
Leaks in hoses can only be fixed by replacing the hose. Leaks in the water pump also require replacing the pump. But leaks in a radiator, heater hose or freeze plug may sometimes respond to a sealer added to the cooling system.


WEAK OR LEAKY RADIATOR CAP
If no leaks are apparent, the radiator cap should be pressure tested to make sure it is holding the specified pressure. If the spring inside the cap is weak (or the cap is the wrong one for the application), the engine will lose coolant out the overflow tube every time it gets hot.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAK
If there are no visible coolant leaks, but the engine is using coolant, there may be a crack in the cylinder head or block, or a leaky head gasket that is allowing coolant to escape into the combustion chamber or crankcase.

EXHAUST RESTRICTION
In some instances a severe exhaust restriction can produce enough backpressure to cause an engine to overheat. The most likely cause of the blockage would be a plugged catalytic converter or a crushed or damaged pipe. Checking intake vacuum and/or exhaust backpressure can diagnose this kind of problem.

BAD WATER PUMP
In a high mileage engine, the impeller that pumps the coolant through the engine inside the water pump may be so badly corroded that the blades are loose or eaten away. If such is the case, the pump must be replaced. Most pump failures, however, occur at the pump shaft bearing and seal. After tens of thousands of miles of operation, the bearing and seal wear out. Coolant starts to leak out past the shaft seal, which may cause the engine to overheat due to the loss of coolant. A sealer additive will not stop this kind of leak. Replacing the water pump is the only cure.
CAUTION: A leaky water pump should be replaced without delay, not only to reduce the risk of engine overheating but to prevent catastrophic pump failure. If the shaft breaks on a rear-wheel drive vehicle, the fan may go forward and chew into the radiator ruining the radiator.


INOPERATIVE FAN MOTOR
On most front-wheel drive cars, the fan that cools the radiator is driven by an electric motor. A temperature switch or coolant sensor on the engine cycles the fan on and off as additional cooling is needed. If the temperature switch or coolant sensor (or the relay that routes power to the fan motor is bad), the fan won't come on when it is needed and the engine will overheat. Likewise, if the fan motor itself is bad, the fan won't work.
The system needs to be diagnosed to determine where the problem is so the correct component can be replaced.

Also check if you are not having a blockage in the coolants hose.

Take care and good luck

Posted on Oct 26, 2010

jturcotte
  • 8841 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Olds

Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using Fixya.


jturcotte_1505.gif

To install:

  1. Rotate the crankshaft so the No. 1 piston is at TDC and the mark on the crankshaft is at the 4 o-clock position.
  2. Rotate the balance shaft so the timing mark is at the 5 o-clock position.
    NOTE Be sure the painted links are facing the front of the engine.
  3. Install the timing chain on the sprockets.
  4. Center the mark on the left intake camshaft sprocket between the 2 painted links.
  5. Lift the chain onto the right intake camshaft sprocket. While doing this, align the marks on the balance shaft and crankshaft sprockets with the painted marks on the chain.
  6. Verify that all of the timing marks are aligned.
  7. Install the primary chain tensioner shoe. Torque the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  8. Compress the primary chain tensioner using the following steps:
    1. Rotate the ratchet release lever counterclockwise and hold it.
    2. Press the tensioner shoe in and hold it.
    3. Release the ratchet lever and slowly release the pressure on the shoe.
    4. Insert a pin through the hole in the lever as the lever moves to the first click. The ratchet should hold the shoe in the compressed position.
      NOTE Be sure the lever on the tensioner is facing you when installed.

  9. Install or connect the following:

    Primary chain tensioner. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm); then remove the chain tensioner pin. 4 chain guide access plugs. Torque the plugs to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Front engine lift bracket. Torque the hex head bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and the internal drive bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). CMP sensor. Torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  10. Remove the camshaft holding tools.
  11. Place a small bead of RTV sealant on the 3 areas indicated in the diagram.
  12. Install or connect the following:

    Front cover with a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm) and the coolant drain plug to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Crankshaft balancer. Torque the bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm); then an additional 120 degree turn.
  13. Raise the engine cradle and install new bolts. Torque the bolts to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).
  14. Coat the sub-frame bushings with rubber lubricant.
  15. Install or connect the following:

    Water pump with a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm). Belt tensioner. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Idler pulley. Torque the bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Power steering pump pulley Drive belt Underhood accessory wiring junction block Washer and coolant reservoirs Battery and tray Front diagonal brace Rocker arm covers. Torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Negative battery cable
  16. Refill the cooling system.
  17. Refill the crankcase.
  18. Start the engine and verify no leaks.
Secondary Chain
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove the rocker arm cover and install camshaft holding fixture J-42038.
  4. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and install the timing chain holding fixture J-42042 on the cylinder head.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Sprockets and chain Secondary timing sprocket and chain
To install:

jturcotte_428.jpg

Fig. Correct sprocket alignment for the left secondary timing chain-3.5L engine


jturcotte_429.jpg

Fig. Correct sprocket alignment for the right secondary timing chain-3.5L engine

  1. Install or connect the following:

    Secondary timing chain on the sprockets, with the drive pins at the 12 o-clock positions Sprockets and chain assembly onto the camshafts, with the chain properly aligned on the tensioner
  2. Remove the timing chain holding fixture
  3. Install the sprocket bolts. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm); then an additional 45 degree turn.
  4. Remove the camshaft holding fixture.
  5. Install or connect the following:

    Rocker arm cover Negative battery cable

Posted on Apr 09, 2011

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. Clean the radiator inside and out---flush the inside with flush cleaner especially designed for auto coolant systems.
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Replace the thermastat
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