Question about 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
Look everywhere want to flush system can not find cap
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if you dont see a radiator cap then the cap for your resevoir tank also serves as your radiator cap, thats where you would put your radiator cleaner and dex-cool in at. it is pressurized just like a normally radiator is with a normal radiator cap on it so dont open it when its hot! the resevoir cap should also have dex-cool stamped on it
Posted on Nov 22, 2008
My car keeps on overheating only on the highway when i reach bout 65 or 70 mph. it does fine all around town i can drive the thing all day around town non-stop, but when i hit the open road it gets hot tells me. hot turn ac off let engine idle...anyone knows the question to that let me know via email email@example.com i would really appreciate the advise or someone who knows what hell prob is.. preciate it...
Posted on Apr 12, 2010
SOURCE: My 1996 olds. aurora keeps
There are several problems that could be leading to an engine overheating. I will discuss some of them and you can try to act on which solutions that can help.
THERMOSTAT STUCK SHOT The thermostat, which is usually located in a housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, controls the operating temperature of the engine. It does this by blocking the flow of coolant from the engine to the radiator until the engine reaches a certain temperature (usually 190 to 195 degrees F.). When this temperature is reached, the thermostat opens and allows coolant to circulate from the engine to the radiator.
If the thermostat fails to open, which can happen due to mechanical failure or if a steam pocket forms under the thermostat due to incomplete filling of the cooling system or coolant loss, no coolant will circulate between the engine and radiator, and the engine will quickly overheat.
You can check for this condition by carefully touching the upper radiator hose when the engine is first started and is warming up. If the upper radiator hose does not become hot to the touch within several minutes after starting the engine, it means the thermostat is probably defective and needs to be replaced.
CAUTION: The replacement thermostat should always have the same temperature rating as the original. Do not substitute a colder or hotter thermostat on any vehicle that has computerized engine controls as engine operating temperature affects the operation of the fuel, ignition and emissions control systems.
DEFECTIVE FAN CLUTCH
On rear wheel drive vehicles with belt-driven cooling fan, a "fan clutch" is often used to improve fuel economy. The clutch is a viscous-coupling filled with silicone oil. The clutch allows the fan to slip at high speed, which reduces the parasitic horsepower drag on the engine. If the clutch slips too much, however, the fan may not turn fast enough to keep the engine cool.
The silicone fluid inside the clutch breaks down over time and can leak out due to wear, too. If you see oily streaks radiating outward on the clutch (and/or the fan can be spun by hand with little or no resistance when the engine is off), it means the clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. Any play or wobble in the fan due to wear in the clutch also signals the need for a new clutch.
EXTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
Leaks in radiator or heater hoses, the water pump, radiator, heater core or engine freeze plugs can allow coolant to escape. No engine can tolerate the loss of coolant for very long, so it usually overheats as soon as a leak develops.
A visual inspection of the cooling system and engine will usually reveal where the coolant is going.
Leaks in hoses can only be fixed by replacing the hose. Leaks in the water pump also require replacing the pump. But leaks in a radiator, heater hose or freeze plug may sometimes respond to a sealer added to the cooling system.
WEAK OR LEAKY RADIATOR CAP
If no leaks are apparent, the radiator cap should be pressure tested to make sure it is holding the specified pressure. If the spring inside the cap is weak (or the cap is the wrong one for the application), the engine will lose coolant out the overflow tube every time it gets hot.
INTERNAL COOLANT LEAK
If there are no visible coolant leaks, but the engine is using coolant, there may be a crack in the cylinder head or block, or a leaky head gasket that is allowing coolant to escape into the combustion chamber or crankcase.
In some instances a severe exhaust restriction can produce enough backpressure to cause an engine to overheat. The most likely cause of the blockage would be a plugged catalytic converter or a crushed or damaged pipe. Checking intake vacuum and/or exhaust backpressure can diagnose this kind of problem.
BAD WATER PUMP
In a high mileage engine, the impeller that pumps the coolant through the engine inside the water pump may be so badly corroded that the blades are loose or eaten away. If such is the case, the pump must be replaced. Most pump failures, however, occur at the pump shaft bearing and seal. After tens of thousands of miles of operation, the bearing and seal wear out. Coolant starts to leak out past the shaft seal, which may cause the engine to overheat due to the loss of coolant. A sealer additive will not stop this kind of leak. Replacing the water pump is the only cure.
CAUTION: A leaky water pump should be replaced without delay, not only to reduce the risk of engine overheating but to prevent catastrophic pump failure. If the shaft breaks on a rear-wheel drive vehicle, the fan may go forward and chew into the radiator ruining the radiator.
INOPERATIVE FAN MOTOR
On most front-wheel drive cars, the fan that cools the radiator is driven by an electric motor. A temperature switch or coolant sensor on the engine cycles the fan on and off as additional cooling is needed. If the temperature switch or coolant sensor (or the relay that routes power to the fan motor is bad), the fan won't come on when it is needed and the engine will overheat. Likewise, if the fan motor itself is bad, the fan won't work.
The system needs to be diagnosed to determine where the problem is so the correct component can be replaced.
Also check if you are not having a blockage in the coolants hose.
Take care and good luck
Posted on Oct 26, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 2001 Olds
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using Fixya. Fig. Correct sprocket alignment for the left secondary timing chain-3.5L engine Fig. Correct sprocket alignment for the right secondary timing chain-3.5L engine
NOTE Be sure the painted links are facing the front of the engine.
NOTE Be sure the lever on the tensioner is facing you when installed.
Primary chain tensioner. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm); then remove the chain tensioner pin. 4 chain guide access plugs. Torque the plugs to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Front engine lift bracket. Torque the hex head bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and the internal drive bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). CMP sensor. Torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
Front cover with a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm) and the coolant drain plug to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Crankshaft balancer. Torque the bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm); then an additional 120 degree turn.
Water pump with a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm). Belt tensioner. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Idler pulley. Torque the bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Power steering pump pulley Drive belt Underhood accessory wiring junction block Washer and coolant reservoirs Battery and tray Front diagonal brace Rocker arm covers. Torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Negative battery cable
Sprockets and chain Secondary timing sprocket and chain
Secondary timing chain on the sprockets, with the drive pins at the 12 o-clock positions Sprockets and chain assembly onto the camshafts, with the chain properly aligned on the tensioner
Rocker arm cover Negative battery cable
Fig. Correct sprocket alignment for the left secondary timing chain-3.5L engine
Fig. Correct sprocket alignment for the right secondary timing chain-3.5L engine
Posted on Apr 09, 2011
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