Car misfires at cruising and idle. It doesent misfire on heavy acceleration and it wont misfire when its raining or damp out. I have replaced a lot of parts and tested many things like injectors vacuum lines. the misfire started right after i changed out the wastegate I have also swapped another wastegate in and its still misfiring.
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Re: misfire at cruising speeds
Buy some gas line antifreeze and try that as it could possibly be water in the fuel... not expensive to try and if i'm correct will save you alot of money in replaced parts. add two now and one each time you fill up.
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There are several different things that could make it misfire ! not just plugs ,does it have plug wires or is it coil on plug coils. Could have a coil breaking down. Does it do it in all driving conditions ? Idle , cruising speed ,under a light load and what codes .po300 random misfire or a specific cylinder misfire code ? P0306 cylinder #6 etc.
Some of these vehicles had issues with water getting under the hood through the seal at the cowl panel and getting into the back spark plug tubes, once the engine warms up and the water evaporates the engine will run fine. There is a replacement seal thatyou can purchase to solve this problem. Hope this helps.
The SES light flashing means the engine management software has detected a misfire condition resulting in exceeding 3 times the federal limit of emissions. Under heavy load such as acceleration one or more cylinders are misfiring and once cruising speed is reached the engine is under a lighter load (10 to 20 percent ) that is why it stops flashing several causes of misfires are worn spark plugs ,spark plug wires, faulty ignition coil or coils fuel injector or fuel pressure problems a quick check of the computer to retrieve trouble codes should identify the problem cylinder or cylinders and will direct you in the right direction to find the faulty component but will not tell you exactly what is wrong certain test must be performed to isolate the cause.
First, have your ignition timing checked. Have also your EGR checked. if this (EGR) is not functioning properly, engine will lose power. If your engines has a distributor, checked for cracked cap, excessive play in the distributor shaft, and other damaged components. You may want also have your ignition unit and coil checked. Don't forget to inspect the spark plug cables. For the high idling speed, have it adjusted to specification and look for sticking throttle linkage.
I think someone gave you wrong information. You know what a rough idle and a misfire you just went through it. And you went through a emission test and passed. Here the thing about the emission test they do it 2 ways if you went on a dyno. The dyno loads the engine and pressurize the system. It looks for pressure failure,like sparkvoltage leaks,and like transmission pressure line and test its ability to maintain gear ratio at an approprate load. Then the dyno heats the vehicle now it looks for operating temperature and that all sensor are within fuel control and do not go out of range. Here the thing. 5000k and 4000k it takes that much to get it to cruising speed. and once there its okay. You are describing a transmission slip. And catalytic costing 4 thousand. From the dealer? If the catalytic are clog there is no way to get it to cruising speed , No youll loose power and the vehicle will keep slowing down. If the transmission is slipping it will slip in a variety of ways One way is what you described. It will 5000k and 4000k to get it to cruising speed then its okay. And not do highway speed , catalytic is about 1200. transmission are 4000k.Plus Ford tried to sue states that put the vehicle on dynos,due to the high trans failures(this is on going debate)
heh, you might want to change the title here as I am pretty sure you cant idle under heavy acceleration. However I think you were on the right track with the plugs and wires. You didnt mention the cap though and that is usually the biggest culprit in damp weather. Put a new cap and rotor on it and see if that doesnt do the trick.
I just came up with that exact issue in my 2003 with 98K police crown vic. And the last time I had this issue in a 2001 police Crown vic it was the crank shaft position sensor. A $20 part and about 30 mins to put it in. located near the bottom of the engine. I had to un bolt the A/C compressor and push it out of the way a few inches to get to the sensor. If you have about 100K mile on it and its an idled heavy police car, this sensor should be changed out anyway. It can leave you on the road dead and some dealers have a hard time find out whats wrong as the OBD 2 does not see it as a problem when it goes bad or becomes touchy as I think mine is.
tried testing the igniter also i would look into the injector, that will cause a single cylinder misfire and probably is your problem?misfires are not noticeable at higher speeds, which im sure you know but i would go that route, could have a pinched injector or a stuck one. one easy way to test is swap 3rd injector with another and see if that one starts misfiring instead, another rought is to get a cheap auto stethoscope and put it to each injector to hear if its opening and closing, compare with others. good luck.