Question about 2006 Ford Escape XLT
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the clearance of the wiper blade from the edge of the glass at the top of it's sweep. If you have over an extra inch of glass, you can go with a 2 inch longer blade (one inch above the pivot point and one inch below). If you have over 2 inches, go with a 4 inch longer, etc...
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
SOURCE: Front Windsheild Wipers
I have 2007 only. please rate as solved if this is what you needed. good luck.
SECTION 501-16: Wipers and Washers 2007 Freestar/Monterey Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 04/27/2006
Wiper Motor — Windshield Printable View (104 KB) Removal
Remove the pushpin-type retainers and the cowl panel grille.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
Front Wiper Motor Removal & Installation
NOTE A new wiper motor assembly comes with the linkage arm installed.
WARNING Do not remove the wiper motor linkage arm from the wiper motor assembly. If the arm is removed, the wiper arms may not park in the correct location.
NOTE Use a suitable tool to separate the wiper linkage arm from the wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly.
Fig. Wiper motor and linkage
Rear Wiper Motor - Removal & Installation
Fig. Rear wiper motor view-2008 model shown, other years similar
Good luck (remember rated this post).
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks !! Especially for the diagrams."
I have a 2002 Escape and have changed my bearings. The 2006 is the same. The front wheel bearings on the Escape are simple cartridge bearings, or Gen1 bearings, that are pressed onto the hub and knuckle. They are not so simple to replace. Unless you have the experience and tools, you'll need to take it to the dealer or a shop.
You will need a press and the correct press tools.
The knuckle/hub assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle.
Here's the short version:
Remove the tire/wheel.
Remove the brake caliper w/ bracket.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Remove axle nut and press the axle inwards, until loose. (sometimes easy, usual needs special tool).
Remove the strut bolts, tie rod, and the lower ball joint from the knuckle/hub assembly. Each of these connections can have it's issues.
Press the hub out of the assembly. One half of the inner race will be stuck on the hub. Use a bearing splitter to remove that half.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing from the knuckle.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only!
Make sure the dust sheild is still in place.
Press the hub into the bearing. The bearing must be supported on the inner race only!
The point is that you must not press thru the balls in the bearing. That can cause the bearing to get brinnelled.... not good.
Reassemble the knuckle on the vehicle in reverse order. I like to put a little grease on the axle spline. The axle spline has a little helix on it... about half a degree. It's supposed to be a tight fit. The torque on the axle nut is 300Nm (about 220ft-lbs?). This torque is very, very important. It is needed to keep the bearing together and at the correct preload, so use a big torque wrench.
...or you can take it to the dealer.
Good luck. Here are some pictures that may help illustrate the difficulty:
Posted on Jan 02, 2011
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