I have a friend that asked me about this. Said I wasn't sure, but I know this guy...
She has an Acura, I think it's a 98 and don't know the model either (no answer on her phone right now). The steering got stiff. She had the pump replaced and the guy who did the job told her there was no difference. It had to be the rack. $890.00 to do the job.
In asking her a few questions, she said it was nearly impossible to drive.
I asked if the steering was easier with the engine off? Yes. While running, it is very difficult to steer.
It's not that I suspect the guy of scamming her, he removed the new pump, replaced the old one and charged zero.
I'm asking you in case her guy missed something or if this was something you heard of. Basically trying to save a friend some money she can't afford to spend.
Let me know the right questions to ask. Thanks bud. Mike
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Re: Acura steering problem
Hey. What I would do first is to raise the front end up, and check to see if the wheels turn left and right manually; engine off.
Wheels turn free, prob the rack
Second, start it up and feel the P/S hoses. Feel for pressure flow when the wheels are being turned. if there is no obvious feeling of pressure change, then I would think that the rack was bypassing thru the spool valve. Replace the rack.
Actually, $890.00 ain't bad...make sure they do an alignment when they are done.
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I could be wrong but I am pretty sure there are a few (3, I think) screws on the bottom side of the steering column. You remove those screws and take the plastic off from around the steering column, top and bottom. There are two 8 mm bolts on the top of the column holding down the ignition switch. The cylinder is on the bottom side of the column and should now come off.
hi it shoudnt be 2 much of a problem for your friend to do it providing they have some mechanical know how also check all vacuim lines 4 any spilts specaily were they plug on to fittings.its a good idear 2 change the fuel filter also replace the air filter
I just did a quick search and came up empty...I may be wrong about the
actual shop/store name...I sometimes associated shops through ownership
instead of what the name on the door was, because many shops are owned
by one person but have bought out other shops. Like the Volvo shop in
Amityville is owned by the same guy that owns the Land Rover shop up on
the North shore almost opposite Amityville and also the one in South
Hampton. I think the shop I was thinking of is in Valley stream. Generally speaking the further away you get from New York City, the more honest the shops get. Labor prices are scary high though in all of them. Personally I think all those cars are over -rated, Accuras are pretty much overgrown hondas. But, what do you expect from a Jeep guy? I re-read your post to see if I could offer any insight to the cars problems but aside from the possibility of a vacuum leak somewhere and maybe a lifter hanging up, I won't even try to guess at the scraping noise. I stress to everyone that asks for mechanical help the importance of testing. Yours is a good example of why "remote control" diagnosis is sometimes nearly impossible. If I was working on your vehicle I'd need to do some testing and probing before coming up with anything definitive. so, guessing is a "shot in the dark" You may be able to find a smaller shop with specialists who have left dealerships and started out on their own. Check with people you know and see if anyone knows of such a shop and has used them. I ran a shop some years ago and we took in just about anything that rolled. My guys were all specialists, and "fugitives" from dealerships. I found that by limiting stupid rules that restricted creativity and thought, I could turn these guys loose on anything and they would fix it! Hope you can find a shop like that...There are still a few around! Good Luck!!.
Hi this is average mileage for the age of the car just test drive it and check you can get all gears and listen for any knocking noises coming from the engine as this could be expensive engine rebuild. Also check the steering lock in both ways and listen for any noises whilst driving on full lock as this would mean new drive shafts and wheel bearings need replacing. Also check for any smoke coming out of exhaust as this could also mean engine rebuild. check all oil water etc. If all this is ok then go ahead and buy the car as they are pretty reliable and easy to maintain just make sure its been serviced regular and you should have no problems just check the front of the car underneath the bonnet for any accident damage because if its had a front end bump it could be out of allignment and dangerous to drive but you should notice any problems of the sort on a road test.
Let me know if you need further assistance. Good look with buying your car and wish you all the best...