Hi, i have a 1991 mr2 , i do everything to bleed my cooling system and teh car still bubbling and the coolant comes out when i shut off the car.
my car does not have heater (is eliminate in puerto rico).I think that is make it easy to bleed.i rebuild the engine complete and i presurized the head cylinder.if you have any solution to my problem please send me back.
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Hi Manuel, That warning light indicates the coolant level is low. To attend the problem make sure the engine is cold. Open the filer cap and the bleeding nipple. Open the cabin heater control to fully hot and fill until all air bubbles have been evacuated from the cooling system (top up with the required mixture of water and coolant/anti freeze, about 40 percent coolant sixty water) When all bubbles have been evacuated, close the bleed nipple and replace the filler cap. Set the cabin temperature as required. If coolant is at correct level and system has been bled it is possible the sender unit may have become defective. Regards John
OK this is not be a big problem. You have air in your coolant system. The temperature sensor is not immersed in coolant but is in an air pocket.
When the engine is cool remove the coolant filler cap. Inside the car switch the heater controls to maximum. Switch the engine on. As the engine gets warmer squeeze the top rubber pipe between the engine and the radiator. Add more coolant to the filler cap to replace the air bubbles when they are expelled. When the engine is near operating temperature screw the coolant cap on tightly. Keep running the engine and keep squeezing the rubber pipes occasionally to help any air bubbles move. Make sure that the bottom rubber hose from the radiator back to the engine gets hot. Ensure that the fan for the radiator is running. Only when you are sure that no more air is in the system do you switch the car interior heater off. Check the coolant level when the engine has again cooled down and add more coolant if it looks low.
hi check the coolant level it may have dropped slighly causing the idle cotrol valve to play up
you may have to bleed the cooling system once you have done this there is a bleed nipple near the distributer undo this while the engine is running and the heater is switched to hot but the blower fan
is off bleed out some coolant until the air stops bubbling out if this doesnt work you may need a new idle control valve situated behind the inlet manifold near the firewall
Hello, and welcome to FixYa. Please allow me to assist you.
The MR2 auto transaxles are very reliable units. Just change the ATF with the correct fluid every 30,000 miles. If it has high mileage, 90 + K miles, and is a dirty colour, I'd recommend a transmission flush. This will remove all of the dirty fluid from the system.
The MR2 non-turbo was a fun car, and had very few comon failures.
Try to stay away from the turbo cars, the turbos are know to fail, and the parts and labour to replace the turbo is very expensive.
The MR2s are rather quirky when it comes to servicing the cooling system, you have to bleed the air out. The necessary procedure is in the owner's manual, or online.
Other than those items, the MR2 is a very decent and reliable car. A little noisy, with the engine right behind you, but, that is part of the fun.
It won't make any difference. The trick is to attach a piece of hose on the bleeder screw. Vacuum line or something small that will fit tightly over it. Loosen the screw, attach the hose. Put the other end of the hose in a clear glass or plastic bottle about half full of brake fluid. Then pump your brakes until no more bubbles come out of the hose. Have someone hold the brake pedal down, and tighten the screw. Repeat on all 4 wheels.
You need to go through the proper coolant system bleeding procedure.. There is a bleeder valve in the front center of the intake manifold. You must fill the system, run the car with the heat on until the thermostat opens, top off the coolant and open the bleeder until coolant a steady stream comes out without any air bubbles. Close bleeder, top off coolant, and replace radiator cap. Run car until fan cycles twice on its own.
have you replaced the thermostat , checked for leaks , etc. ? If so, when adding coolant did you bleed the system ? The system has to be bled of air bubbles . Almost all cars have a bleeding screw right at the thermostat housing. It is a regular screwdriver screw. you must bleed the cooling system after adding coolant . If you can't find a bleeding screw, get some thick gloves so you won't burn your hands . Turn the radiator cap until you hear air hiss out. Let it bleed until only coolant wants to come out into the reservoir. The car must be running to operating temperature when you blled the system.
If you had a blown head gasket, you would have HUGE amounts of white clouds of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Your engine would be overheating/temp gauge reading high. Since you have not described either of these two things, I would hesitate to pronounce your veh with a head gasket problem.
Now, the bubbling that you speak of: MR2s are notorious for "air pockets" in the cooling system, as the engine & the radiator have a significent distance from each other. This can cause the bubbling sound. Knowing this, Toyota had the wherewithall to provide a cooling system air bleed proceedure when it was built. Open the front hood, and remove the spare tire. You should see a plastic tube coiled against the firewall. This ius for bleeding the air from the cooling pipes under the car. If you do not have the owner's manual that describes the coolant bleed proceedure, I will e-mail you a copy.
I would look at this long before I ripped the head off for no reason.