1997 k-1500 4x4 silveraldo blower motor will not shut off
I replaced the blower switch in the cab which operates the fan speed the pig tail wiring was also shorting out i also replaced it and the blower motor still runs and will not shut off. i also have trouble with the steering nobody can explain it i replaced the power steering pump and it still steers hard like rack and pionion steering. can any body help with these problems.
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Usually the blower motor switch is ok. The problem is more likely to be the blower motor speed resistor block which is the device which regulates how much power the switch sends to the blower motor to control it's speed. I believe that on your vehicle it located in the engine compartment at the right [passenger] side of the firewall and has a 4 or 5 wire connector plugged into it. It's a pretty common and inexpensive part so it should be readily available at most parts stores. Good luck, hope this helps!
There is a wiring harness on hinge side of passenger door correct, take a look at the wiring colors. Hope you can read it. At the window switch, the outside wire on either side is voltage or ground depending on which direction, up or down, reversing motor. You don't need the window switch for testing, you should be able to operate from driver door master switch. If you get the wires reversed, the only thing that will happen is, up will be down and down will be up, if that happens, reverse the wires. Just my opinion.
At the window switch, top middle wire is lockout, so only the driver can operate the windows.
I would venture to say that if you hit the dash and the motor started running then the problem would be in the heater control assembly mounted in the dash, like bad wire to Heater switch connection. A bad connection can jenerate a lot of heat and start melting things unless you find the problem soon enough. The switch may already be damaged inspect switches and wireing for any vissible damage and replace as required. However if everything looks ok with the heater control assembly, Their are a few more things you can check to be sure of before relpacing the heater blower motor. Turn the heater controles to the high heat and fan on high as well, settings and remove the heater blower motor pig tail and check to see if power is getting to the motor,( use a 12 volt test light at the wire harness side of this connection ) also check for power going to and leaving the blower motor resistor assembly ( mounted to the side or top of the blower motor housing ). If so equipped. If you find no power getting to the motor at this point then you will half to start working your way back through the wireing towords the heater controles until you find the problem. Using your test light. Now if you did have power going to the motor then replace the motor. Good Luck From Ernie @ RedDeer, Alberta, Canada.
Either the blower motor itself has gone bad or you have a fuse blown. Could also be a bad connection at the blower motor. Check all the fuses and then the wires at the blower with a test light. You can also use two wires and run them as a straight wire from the battery to the blower motor, one as a hot and the other as a ground, to ensure the blower is good. Also check your switch on the dash.
The blower motor resistor is bad, when you have the fan on high the fan motor (or blower motor) gets full voltage. When you have the switch on any other setting it gets reduced voltage via the "Blower Motor Resistor". That part is usually fairly close to fan motor in the duct work and is held in place with a couple screws and has a plug in going to with several wires. Sometimes that plug in gets melted to the resistor and the plug (or pig tail) has to be replaced too. This should be a fairly simple fix depending on the location of the resistor. The parts should be less than $100.00
The problem is not with the switch, it's the blower motor resistor. The resistor is usually located in duct work near the blower motor. It will have 4or 5 wires going to it and is held in place with a couple screws. These things generate heat, so they put them in duct work so the fan blows air across them to keep them cool. Sometimes the plug gets hot and melts, you should be able to buy the resitor and the plug with wires (pig tail) from an auto parts store or a dealer. The resistors are usually about $50 the pig tail is about $30.
blower motor resister has burnt out also check wiring going to your blower motor resistor these must have a good tight connection or they will burn if any sighns of being hot change the complete wiring pig tail to your blower resistor
There are two fuses for the fan. One is probably a 20 Amp in the fuse panel in the cab and marked "Heater". or "Heater/AC" The second is under the hood may be marked Heater, Blower, or Fan and should be 30 Amp. The one in the cab supplies switched 12 volts to the fan speed switch. The one under the hood supplies the 12 volts to the relay. The relay is normally energized by the 12 volts through the 20 Amp fuse in the cab and through the switch. I think you find that the fan has the normal speeds except for missing HI with the underhood fuse removed, and will turn off with the ignition that way. There is no hazard in operating it that way but you may want to replace the resistor/relay assembly before it gets too cold. The relay is a pretty trouble free device in most cases, maybe you can find a deal on a good one at a junkyard.
The whole idea with the relay under the hood started back in the Sixties believe it or not. There is considerable voltage drop in the wiring between the fan switch and the blower fan motor. By adding the relay under the hood right next to the motor, the voltage drop was reduced, both by the shorter wire, and by using heavier wire to boot. The motor gets really close to the full system voltage when the relay is closed. In your case where the relay keeps the fan running, it can drain a battery rather quickly too!