For about a week we had to get the key in just the right position before the car would start. We bought a new key and it seemed solve the problem. Then today it started right up, we went from home a few blocks away & turned the car off. Went to start it about 10 minuetes later and all it would do is crank over but would not start, it seems to be getting gas but no spark either way it won't start.
We had to have it towed home
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If you have power in aux position(ex.)radio works but doesn't when you put the key in the start position,the ignition switch is bad,the contacts are warn out for starting/cranking&run positions,these are used everytime you start your car,but auxillary is ony used once in awhile(ex.)your sitting listening to music while waiting for someone to come,but if you do have radio in the run position,but no cranking/starting you could have a blown resistor on fire wall or fuse for ignition,or the starter has called it quits,good luck I don't know if the starter is clicking rapid or just one click or just no power not cranking or cranking a better description of everything that happens will make this alot easier
Won't turn over? Do you mean the starter won't crank the engine over?
Or the engine cranks over and won't start, and you have tested for spark when cranking and have no spark? And then you have tested the coil and ignition module, and they tested out good? Am I on the right page here? If so, maybe the next thing to check would be the crank position sensor. The ecu (computer) signals the ignitor (ignition module) when to initiate spark after it digests the signals from the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
You may be right. Sometimes a starter test doesn't reveal everything. But before you pull the starter, do this quick test. It should confirm if problem is the starter or the ignition switch. When the car won't crank over, pull the small wire off the starter solenoid (on the starter), and check if it has power when key is held in crank position. You need a helper to hold the key in crank. If the wire has power (use a testlight or meter to check for power), and the starter won't crank, pull the starter off for testing or replacement. But if there is no power on the wire when key is held in crank, then it confirms that power is not being transmitted from the switch to the starter. Not to say for sure it is the switch, could also be another part in the path from switch to solenoid (like the neutral safety switch). But more common for the ignition switch to go out first. Either replace the switch or continue testing your start circuit. Post back with results or for further help. Good luck.
First lets make sure it not the alarm issue.Roll down a window. key off engine off,remove battery cable,touch the two cable for 1 minute,reinstall cables. put the key in the ignition but dont crank it. Turn it to the ACC position and leave for one minute,start the vehicle.
Hi, if an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression.
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression.
Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.
If your key is not programmed for the car, then it will have this issue. I bought a 99 Maxima 3 weeks ago. One of the keys was programmed and worked perfectly. The other would turn the car over and stop it immediately. If you do this too many times without the key being programmed from the dealer or another source, it will erase all keys that are programmed and lock down the ignition.