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What thing should I check first so I dont waste time

My 1990 chevy corsica LT wont get up to speed and wont go over 60 mph I can have the pudal to the floor and it doesnt matter also when I am driving at a steady speed it seems to kind of choke makes the car jerk a little the 20 year old car only has 70,000 miles so I would asume not much has been done under the hood

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  • 373 Answers

Lack of info, but These cars are known for bad computers. The wires on the back of the harness that plugs into the computer gets loose. I would let car idle and wiggle wires at the same time. I had 2 corsicas that did this. They were 3.1L engines. My 4 cylinder corsica had knock sensor issues. What size motor do you have??? A knock sensor does the same as what you are describing as well. Give me more info and we can go from there.

Posted on Jan 15, 2013

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  • jordan meiselwitz Jan 15, 2013

    4 cylinder thanks for your help

  • jordan meiselwitz Jan 15, 2013

    1990 2.2 liter corsica LT

  • jamiem1416
    jamiem1416 Jan 15, 2013

    Since it is a 4, I would say it sounds like a coil going bad. . You will find the coil packs by following the spark plug wires back to the coil. I replaced a couple of them in corsicas [ great cars ] When I changed the coil on one car, it wouldn't run properly, but it turned out to be the knock sensor. I would say it may need a good tune up anyway, going by the low milage. Spark plugs , wires, air filter etc., but find the problem first. , also inspect the wiring on the coil that is on the car now, they sometimes get bad. just throwing things at you right now, but I would say start with the coil, and also check wiring going to the computer. The computer is on the passengers side under the dash. on the side. wiggle the plug while the car is running, and see if there is an up or down idle, rough idle etc. Just to rule it out. Let me know how you make out. Cheers from Nova Scotia!

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ndguy2481
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SOURCE: engine power loss

Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). in this list u will find a answer to ur problem Shaun 2 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 4 Inspect Distributor Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor. 5 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap 6 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. grey_line.gif 7 Inspect PCV Valve Plugged or damaged pcv valve. grey_line.gif 8 Inspect Air Filter Restricted or clogged air filter. grey_line.gif 9 Inspect Catalytic Converter Clogged, damaged, defective or faulty catalytic converter. grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Automatic Transmission Improperly adjusted kickdown cable adjustment or internal transmission problems. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. grey_line.gif 12 Inspect MAP Sensor Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor. grey_line.gif 13 Inspect Mass Air Flow Sensor Improperly connected or faulty mass air flow sensor. grey_line.gif 14 Inspect Throttle Position Sensor Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit. grey_line.gif 15 Inspect Timing Specification Incorrectly adjusted engine timing. grey_line.gif 16 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. grey_line.gif

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

RattMur
  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Civic EX wont accelerate

It sounds like a problem with the transmission. The creaking could be a bad power steering pump or simply a dry/leaking rack & pinion.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Vehicle "Choking" While Driving

On my 2002 windstar, I had intermittent problems with the engine light flashing while the motor was accelerating or going up a hill, about 3 minutes into a drive following being left alone all night. During this time, the car engine shook and acceleration was poor. Later, the problem was minimal.

Root cause:
The coil block has one coil for two cylinders. In my case, the middle coil fires cylinders 2 & 6. When I cleared the codes and got the problem to occur again, the codes came back at the same time. I removed the cowling to access the col block. When I examined the bottom of the coil, I discovered that a crack had occurred across the resin just under the location of the middle coil.

Autozone has a diagram of the pinouts of this coil block you can download to see if your dual-intermittent cylinder misfire problem corresponds to another coil in the block.

Explaination:

When moisture gets into the coil, it causes the problem. When moisture is driven out of the crack by engine heat, the problem subsides.

Procedure I used for repair:

Access: Remove Cowling:
1. Remove Wipers
2. Loosen Plastic Cowling cover
3. Remove washer fluid hoses from nozzel
4. Remove plastic cowling
5. Disconnect wiper power from connection on drivers side wiper motor.
6. Disconnect wiper fluid hose from connection above passenger front wheel.
7. Remove metal cowling.
8. Change out the coil with three screws - very easy to do.
9. Replace components in reverse order.

Note: While I was at it, I changed the wires and the spark plugs. The spark plubs in the back were accessable but hard to get to without a swivel head socket wrench.

Posted on May 03, 2009

  • 396 Answers

SOURCE: steering wheel shakes when driving at high speeds between 45-60 m

Have frount end alligned, balance tires, check ball joints, tie rods.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: My 1978 Chevy truck will choke down and die

Not sure what "choke down" means. If you mean run really rich and smoke black, like the choke is stuck, look at the choke linkage. If you mean lay down and give no power, but not smoke black and not sound farty and blubbery, that is likely not a choke problem.

Look at the fuel filter. They can be mostly clogged but pass enough fuel to get by under most situations; also their internal gunk load can shift, causing a filter that was serving okay to be clogged at a moment's notice.

Check the gas cap and the tank vent / evaporative emissions system - if air can't get in to replace the fuel you removed from the tank, pretty soon your fuel pump is trying to **** fuel out of a tank that is already under a vacuum.

If those two are OK, throw an ignition coil in it. They are cheap and easy enough, and a failing one will intermittently lay down and give weak sparks. If you can catch the truck in its failure mode, try loosening one of the plug wires (either end) and holding it a half inch away from its previous mount. You should get fat bright blue sparks jumping the gap, snapping as they fly; if they won't jump that far, or sound or look wimpy, your coil is suspect.

If you change your coil and the problem goes away, give the truck a tune-up - cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, and also change the ignition module (an extra $20 for a cheapie.) Coils don't die of old age; they die of overwork, like trying to push very high voltage through high-resistance spark plug wires and across worn-out plugs. The ignition module has to handle all of the power that goes through the coil, and if the coil is stressed, so is the module. They can fail without warning, stranding you until the module cools down enough (30 minutes to six hours) that it will run again.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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