What thing should I check first so I dont waste time

SOURCE: engine power loss

Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). in this list u will find a answer to ur problem Shaun 2 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 4 Inspect Distributor Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor. 5 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap 6 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. 7 Inspect PCV Valve Plugged or damaged pcv valve. 8 Inspect Air Filter Restricted or clogged air filter. 9 Inspect Catalytic Converter Clogged, damaged, defective or faulty catalytic converter. 10 Inspect Automatic Transmission Improperly adjusted kickdown cable adjustment or internal transmission problems. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. 12 Inspect MAP Sensor Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor. 13 Inspect Mass Air Flow Sensor Improperly connected or faulty mass air flow sensor. 14 Inspect Throttle Position Sensor Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit. 15 Inspect Timing Specification Incorrectly adjusted engine timing. 16 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system.

SOURCE: 2002 Civic EX wont accelerate

It sounds like a problem with the transmission. The creaking could be a bad power steering pump or simply a dry/leaking rack & pinion.

SOURCE: Vehicle "Choking" While Driving

On my 2002 windstar, I had intermittent problems with the engine light flashing while the motor was accelerating or going up a hill, about 3 minutes into a drive following being left alone all night. During this time, the car engine shook and acceleration was poor. Later, the problem was minimal.

Root cause:
The coil block has one coil for two cylinders. In my case, the middle coil fires cylinders 2 & 6. When I cleared the codes and got the problem to occur again, the codes came back at the same time. I removed the cowling to access the col block. When I examined the bottom of the coil, I discovered that a crack had occurred across the resin just under the location of the middle coil.

Autozone has a diagram of the pinouts of this coil block you can download to see if your dual-intermittent cylinder misfire problem corresponds to another coil in the block.

Explaination:

When moisture gets into the coil, it causes the problem. When moisture is driven out of the crack by engine heat, the problem subsides.

Procedure I used for repair:

Access: Remove Cowling:
1. Remove Wipers
2. Loosen Plastic Cowling cover
3. Remove washer fluid hoses from nozzel
4. Remove plastic cowling
5. Disconnect wiper power from connection on drivers side wiper motor.
6. Disconnect wiper fluid hose from connection above passenger front wheel.
7. Remove metal cowling.
8. Change out the coil with three screws - very easy to do.
9. Replace components in reverse order.

Note: While I was at it, I changed the wires and the spark plugs. The spark plubs in the back were accessable but hard to get to without a swivel head socket wrench.

SOURCE: steering wheel shakes when driving at high speeds between 45-60 m

Have frount end alligned, balance tires, check ball joints, tie rods.

SOURCE: My 1978 Chevy truck will choke down and die

Not sure what "choke down" means. If you mean run really rich and smoke black, like the choke is stuck, look at the choke linkage. If you mean lay down and give no power, but not smoke black and not sound farty and blubbery, that is likely not a choke problem.

Look at the fuel filter. They can be mostly clogged but pass enough fuel to get by under most situations; also their internal gunk load can shift, causing a filter that was serving okay to be clogged at a moment's notice.

Check the gas cap and the tank vent / evaporative emissions system - if air can't get in to replace the fuel you removed from the tank, pretty soon your fuel pump is trying to **** fuel out of a tank that is already under a vacuum.

If those two are OK, throw an ignition coil in it. They are cheap and easy enough, and a failing one will intermittently lay down and give weak sparks. If you can catch the truck in its failure mode, try loosening one of the plug wires (either end) and holding it a half inch away from its previous mount. You should get fat bright blue sparks jumping the gap, snapping as they fly; if they won't jump that far, or sound or look wimpy, your coil is suspect.

If you change your coil and the problem goes away, give the truck a tune-up - cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, and also change the ignition module (an extra $20 for a cheapie.) Coils don't die of old age; they die of overwork, like trying to push very high voltage through high-resistance spark plug wires and across worn-out plugs. The ignition module has to handle all of the power that goes through the coil, and if the coil is stressed, so is the module. They can fail without warning, stranding you until the module cools down enough (30 minutes to six hours) that it will run again.