Question about 1999 Buick Regal
Sounds like it's coming from under the central part of the dash.
If the sound happens when the HVAC is changing temp or vent outlet, it could be a blend door problem.
Posted on Jan 15, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check to see if you have a lot of dirt in the throttle body. Clean the throttle blades out with brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. You'll see alot of dirt come out. Keep spraying until it comes out fairly clear and wipe the throttle body out with a rag. If this doesn't do it, you may have a problem with the throttle position sensor (TPS). This sensor controls the idle after the car warms up and keeps it from dying when you brake or sit at idle.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
SOURCE: Buick Regal brakes
Sometimes (when changing the brake calipers on disk brakes, or changing wheel cylinders on drum brake systems) the mechanic will clamp a vise grip pliers on the rubber hose to prevent hydraulic fluid from dripping out. This can break the internal fiber lining in the rubber hose. Then the fluid flow can be blocked. When you press the brake pedal, fluid may not flow to the wheel or wheels. As you press harder, the fluid may suddenly flow through the line, causing the brakes to suddenly activate.
Or an even more likely problem, your brakes drag (stay on) and get hot, because the fluid cannot flow back to the master cylinder when you release the brake pedal. In other words, when you press the brake you force fluid through a partially blocked rubber hose. But the return of the fluid (backwards through the rubber hose) is caused not by pressure, but just by equilibrium, a balancing act. Well, if the line (rubber hose) is blocked, the fluid stays in the caliper or wheel cylinder, and the brake is still on, and the brake gets hot.
Ken Camas, Washington email@example.com
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Having just repaired this problem in a 1998 Buick Regal, I can tell you that fixing the water leak is actually quite easy. It took me quite a while to track down the source of water, but I have discovered that it comes through the cabin air filter. There is a seal on the passenger side of the cowl (A two piece unit, black plastic, against the windshield) that seals it to the windshield to prevent water infiltration. It is very small and somewhat hard to miss. I took the cowl off to change the filter when I discovered this.
You can make a diverter to go over the air filter under the cowl, or even easier is to use some clear RTV silicone (avalible at any automotive and most hardware stores) and put a good bead on the old seal. When you re-install the plastic cowl, be carefull where it goes against the windshield to make sure you don't "smear" the silicone. After you re-install the plastic retainer hardware, smooth out the bead and clean up the excess silicone(a wet finger and some old cardboard works great). Let it dry and clean up the water in the passenger compartment.
Cleaning up the water is the hard part. Removing the plastic trim around the door (if you grasp the trip peices firmly they just pull up off some metal clips,but they can be quite stubborn) you will notice the carpet just pulls up. At the bottom front corner of the front doors the carpet has a plastic hook that is around one of the trim clips. Lift it off that and the rest of the carpet towards the firewall just pulls up. If it has been a long problem, your carpet may be moldy. Also, the carpet edges and some of the more hidden panel clips are very sharp and may cut you while you are poking around, so be carefull.
Since the water entered through the air filter and right over the fan, you will at minimum want to replace the filter. I had mold and moss growing on mine. My fan also squeels and chirps now, so I know it got wet. Not much to do about that but replace it or carefully lubricate the motor.
In your question you mentioned a door underneath the filter not closing. On my '98 Buick Regal there is no door or valve of any sort. The filter sits right above the fan blades. It is the cowel's job to prevent water from entering this part of the vehicle. I hope this helps you fix your problem.
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
The blower motor is vertically mounted below the glovebox on the passenger side. To replace the motor, follow these basic steps. It's actually very simple when you figure out how to contort your body so you can work on it.
You need to remove the bolster cover under the glovebox. To do so, just slowly pull the bolster out from the sides of the passenger side until you come to a plastic, one way connector. (Kinda looks like this -->) |>>>> They are ribbed and impossible to pull out. Take some wire cutters or diagonal cutters and clip the plastic connectors. They are cheap connectors that you can buy for $0.50 a bag at any auto supply shop. When you work your way through the connectors, remove the bolster and the blower motor cage should be visible. It will be lodged behind a mass of wires, and you won't have much room to move in. Look/feel for an electrical connector on the back side of the blower motor and try to seperate that first. If it is too tight, take off the mounting hardware first and see if that gives you more room. There should be three or four nuts securing the blower motor to the base behind the glovebox. Remove these and the motor should simply fall downward. You will have to adjust the wiring to pull it entirely out, but it shouldn't take long. Simply wiggle the new one in the same way you got the old one out. There may not be the same number of mounting screws or they may not line up exactly like the old ones, but it should fit in a particular position. Try rotating it.
When the motor is back in and the screws are back. Test it out and try all the speeds. If everything is working. Take an old plastic connector to a autostore and find matching ones. Reapply the bolster and snap some fresh connectors into the holes. That's all there is to it.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
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