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Oil leaks from this hose when i am driving down the road, I believe this is the blowby hose, I am wanting to know what's wrong? And it leaks about a quart a month of driving

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 14,363 Answers

Where's the other end of hose?

Posted on Jan 14, 2013

  • 2 more comments 
  • Kole Holliday
    Kole Holliday Jan 14, 2013

    Im not sure where the other end goes, i havent really gotten under my truck good enough to see it, i just know that its on the left side of the oil pan and is between the starter and oil pan

  • Thomas Perkins
    Thomas Perkins Jan 14, 2013

    Yeah it could be a blow bye hose,came loose and is hanging there,look and see if you can see a home for it.

  • Kole Holliday
    Kole Holliday Jan 14, 2013

    Alright so you think maybe it came loose from somewhere and is hanging?

  • Kole Holliday
    Kole Holliday Jan 14, 2013

    And also my truck is a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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glennsmart
  • 818 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak?

Whoa whoa ... You've said that the car takes 7 quarts of oil. That's 14 pints. Depending on which engine variant is fitted, engine oil capacity is either:

  • 5.75 litres + 0.4 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • Turbo - 3.85 litres + 0.6 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • These figures are for a UK 3 litre version of the 960
If you've filled the car with 7 quarts of engine oil that's almost twice as much oil as should be in the engine. Did you mean pints when you wrote quarts?

If you've filled it with 7 quarts it's overfull. Way too full. Check your oil dipstick - remove it, wipe it clean and then dip the oil level. At the bottom of the dipstick there is a flattened wider part. The oil level should not be below the bottom of this marker, and nor should it be above it. If the oil level is way above the flattened marker bar - you're overfull and will have to drain some oil out of the engine. An overfilled engine will try and blow oil out from wherever it can as the oil system will over-pressurised.

Ok .. so there's no problem with the engine compression. The crankcase isn't overfilled with oil (the crankcase is known as the oil sump in the UK). There's no oil fouling of the plugs and the car isn't burning oil, just leaking it. There's no misfires or running

If the engine isn't overfilled with oil there may be a problem with a broken/sticking piston ring or piston/cylinder. That high oil loss you mention seems severe. A problem with a piston/ring/cylinder can allow the compression to leak past the rings/piston into the engine oil sump and pressurise it. Under pressure, the oil will try and leak to atmosphere from anywhere it can.

A blue smoky exhaust is also an indication of piston/ring problems. A quick check is to start the car. If there's a cloud of blue smoke at start up which clears quickly, it's like to be worn valve guides. If, when driving the car with a warm engine there's blue smoke on acceleration - it points to a problem with rings/piston.

A quick check is to remove the spark plugs. Is there engine oil on one or more of them? An oiled up plug indicates that the engine oil is finding its way up past the rings/piston - and if oil can find its way up to a spark plug, then exhaust gasses/compressed fuel/air can find its way into the engine oil sump and pressurise it.

Another quick check is to start the engine and remove the oil dipstick. If fumes are 'chugging' out of the tube or oil is spitting out, that's another sure-fire sign that the oil sump is becoming pressurised due to a piston ring/piston/cylinder problem.

If you possess or can borrow an engine compression tester there is a further test you can do yourself to confirm whether or not there are piston/ring problems. Basically, a compression tester is just a gauge that screws into the cylinder head in place of the spark plug.

Warm the engine for 5 minutes so that the pistons expand fully in the bores.
Remove the spark plugs
Fit the compression tester into No1 cylinder and crank the engine for 10 seconds. Make a note of the compression reading on the gauge.
Do the same for each cylinder.

Here's an example of what you might find (the figures are for example only)
Cylinder Reading
1 115
2 120
3 118
4 95
5 96
6 117

Figures vary, but there should not be more than a 10% difference between the readings.
In the example above you can see that cylinders 4 and 5 have readings that are well below those of the other cylinders. This is indicating problems within those two cylinders. The lower compression could be due to a head/gasket fault or piston ring/piston problem. A split or worn exhaust valve in the head may cause low compression, a misfire and uneven running but it won't cause the engine oil sump/crankcase to pressurise. Now, some fine tuning to locate the exact problem:

Put a liberal squirt of oil into each cylinder - something like Redex, WD40 or engine oil.Put a cloth over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to get rid of the excess oil. The idea is that the oil you have squirted into the piston bores will form a 'seal' around the outside of the piston/rings.

Do the compression tests again and note the readings. If the readings go up significantly it indicates that the rings/pistons/bore has a problem. Readings that go up significantly are due to the oil forming a seal around the piston which raises the compression whilst testing. Here's an example:Cylinder Reading on 1st test 2nd test
1 115 118
2 120 121
3 118 120
4 95 110 Significant rise - more than 10%
5 96 98
6 117 119

Ok .. all this means is that cylinder 4 has compression problems due to the rings/piston/bore. The 2nd compression reading (with the oil squirted in) is higher simply because the oil formed a seal. Cylinder number 5 still has a low reading which didn't increase significantly on the 2nd 'wet' (when oil is added) test. This suggests that the problem is an exhaust valve/head gasket/head problem.

If there had been no significant increase in the reading on number 4 cylinder, this would suggest valve/gasket head problem. Low readings on adjoining cylinders (and which don't increase with the 2nd compression 'wet' oil test) would indicate a faulty head gasket between those two cylinders.

I'll continue this article ... ran out of word space

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

SOURCE: oil leaks

http://www.volvoforumsrepairs.org.uk/800Repairs/inmanpcv.htm look at all your hoses i changed all mine for 4mm silicon hose and found some split /blocked that fixed the back pressure problem dont drill your cap that aint going to fix it it just lets oil run every where .

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

bmw_tech_38
  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Oil light comes on once every two months

Hi, it doesn't sound like you have a problem as BMW's can use up to 1 litre of oil per 1000 kilometers, are you using the correct grade of oil?
it should be 5 W 30 fully synthetic

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76164 Answers

SOURCE: transmission problem

the vacuum modulator that the vacuum hose connectes to at the transmission has a ruptured rubber diaphram, replace the vacuum modulator and the vacuum hose.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: How many quarts of oil is required for an oil change

put three in then check dip stick..let oil settle before checking.if low add another.

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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http://www.volvoforumsrepairs.org.uk/800Repairs/inmanpcv.htm look at all your hoses i changed all mine for 4mm silicon hose and found some split /blocked that fixed the back pressure problem dont drill your cap that aint going to fix it it just lets oil run every where .

Aug 01, 2008 | 1996 Volvo 850

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