Question about 2004 Mazda RX-8

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Rx8 heater control valve

Does the valve have 2 or 4 hoses ?

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How to replace expansion valve on a 2005 rx8


1.) Discharge air conditioning.
2.) Remove dashboard
3.) Replace expansion valve.

ive never seen an expansion valve in an rx8 go.....
usually its the climate control head. The blend knob stops working...

May 18, 2014 | 1999 Mazda 626

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Pcv valve


see FSM?
open hood
touch valve cover. with finger,
now see 2 hoses. on VC. about 1inch OD.
one is PCV fresh air.
and one is PCV valve hose. that hose. the one with the PCV check valve device on the end.

Nov 22, 2013 | 2004 Honda Pilot

1 Answer

Heater control valve leaking


in the engine bay the heater hose valve is leaking
well that can only be 2 reasons.
1: bad valve.
2: bad hoses.

super simple failure... just a closer look and bingo who.

Nov 06, 2013 | 2004 Acura TL

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Where is egr valve located on 1983 chev s10 blazer


4 cylinder model the EGR valve is located between 2 & 3 cylinder on intake manifold and between Carb and valve cover it has a diaphragm cover about 3 inches round and one vacuum hose 2 bolts holds it to the intake. V-6 models EGR valve is located on drivers side of engine just behind carb and about the same size and roundness and one hose two bolts.

Nov 04, 2013 | Ford Expedition Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the evap canister solinoid located at honda accord 2000


2000
why not post the DTC error for better answers/?
and country.?
now my answer from USA, cars.
1: in usa open hood, see vacuum sticker, its there.
2: in FSM there are 3, purge control and bypass VSV. and vent shut off VSV.
so which one. ill answer for all 3.
at the canister. (im looking ,in alldata.com so an you)
1: CAN , hose.
one goes to tank, directly not that hose.
2: hose 2. is vent shut valve top of CAN, and goes to Vent can filter.
3: hose 3: to purge joint then purge valve.
4: and last host to bypass valve. this valve has 3 hoses (unique)

alldata.com click evap emmissions tab.

Oct 25, 2013 | 1998 Honda Accord

1 Answer

No heat new thermostat blows good was told may be valve going to hoses $200 tofix where can that be foun d is it easy fix?


easy is in the eye of the beholder and skill sets.
you could read the manual (FSM) and assess that for your self.
so you are saying the engine coolant thermostat is good and is at
180F or more all the time , hot, holding.
and that this hot coolant fails to reach the heater core?
right?
it can only be 2 things,
1: that valve some cars have.
2: or path is clogged.
3: some cars have a damper that blocks the core , so if that is stuck then bingo.

may be? why guess. do the tests to find the facts.
or guess and guess wrong.
$$$$
if you really want the facts, go to alldata.com $15 year DIY subs.
and read the HVAC section,
or get the Full FSM from Honda or Helm.? or anywhere.

in the book they tell you how to conduct these simple tests.

here is the heater valve test.
there are 2 water hoses from engine to cab, on right hand side
of RHD car. (usa)
a top hose
and bottom hose.
the bottom hose has a valve there.
the test:
engine hot. 180F +
heater on max. fan max too.
both sides of vavle, that is both sides of valve hoses
just be real hot, so hot hand jumps back after 5sec touch.
this is NORMAL.
if not hot both sides, the coolant is NOT flowing.
if not flowing , make sure valve is opening on demand.
if it is , this path is filthy and is packed up. (forgot the 2year flush and fill?s)

the valve is cable operated
have person one adjust dash temp lever from min to max
then person two ,look at the water valve , does that lever, move
from min to max.>?
the cable must be adjusted, if (messed with prev.)
dash temp to 60F.
take out all slick at cable, at valve, using. cable clamp next to valve.
keep in mind , if the heater core,is cold.
the valve is bad, stuck or clogged
or the core is packed in crud
or the hoses associated to all this are packed.

i can tell you guessing will be expensive.

Oct 25, 2013 | 2002 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Heater only blows cold air vent blend door working fine


Here we go.
Raise the hood and remove the radiator cap.
Start the car and heat up the engine, usually takes about 5 minutes.
Turn on the heater full blast.
At this time, be sure your radiator is full of coolant, because a low radiator will drop the coolant so low the heater will get no water, it could be "air-locked".
If the collant level is low, add coolant and run the engine at a medium speed for 5 minutes to "burp" the air out of the heater hoses.
Feel the heater hoses to see if they are hot. They should be.
Feel the radiator hoses to see if they are hot. They should be.
If the radiator hoses are not hot, you may have a defective thermostat, it it might be stuck open.
If so, the heater would not get hot, because the motor is not.
If the radiator hoses are hot, and the heater hoses are not, likely the hot water is shut off to the heater.
There is likely a control near the firewall that is either controlled by a wire cable or a vacuum line.
This control valve has 2 heater hoses connected to it, one incoming and one outgoing.
Often, the wire cable or the control valve itself will stick due to rust or corrosion, or disuse.
If it is vacuum controlled, you may not be getting vacuum to the control valve, or again, the control valve may be stuck closed.
Sometimes these controls can be freed up with penetrating oil, sometimes they are too far gone to repair, must be replaced.
If you can fix it with penetrating oil, you may need to do that once a year.

Jan 19, 2013 | 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

1 Answer

Heater control valve location 2000 Durango


In the 2000 Ford F150, you'll find the heater control valve by looking right above the battery. You'll find a little black hose leading to it. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Renault CAN Clip

Dec 10, 2012 | 1999 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Hyundai santafe 2004 how to fix p0456...or what are ur suggestions for repair? i was advised to change the gas cap!


Here's the procedure:

Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) Line Inspection
1. Ignition "OFF".
2. Disconnect the hose leading from the PCSV to the intake manifold at PCSV.
3. Using a vacuum pump, apply specified vacuum(Approx. 15 in, Hg) to the manifold side of the valve and verify PCSV holds vacuum.
4. Ignition "ON" & Engine "OFF".
5. Install scantool and select "EVAP PURGE VALVE" on the Actuation Test mode.
6. Activates "EVAP PURGE VALVE" by pressing "STRT(F1)" key.
7. Verify PCSV release vacuum while valve is activating(should hear a faint click from PCSV).
8. Repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to ensure PCSV reliability.
9. Is PCSV working properly?
YES
? Go to "Canister Closing Valve(CCV) Line Inspection" procedure.
NO
? Verify arrow on PCSV is pointing towards intake manifold. If it is not, reverse installation. Reinstall as necessary.
? If OK, check for cracks or damage in hose connecting PCSV and intake manifold. Repair or replace as necessary.
? If OK, test with a new PCSV and check for proper operation. If problem is corrected, replace PCSV and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
Canister Closing Valve(CCV) Line Inspection
1. Return vehicle to original condition.
2. Ignition "OFF".
3. Disconnect the hose connecting Canister Closing Valve(CCV) to canister.
4. Blow air to the canister side of the valve and verify air escapes to the air filter side.
5. Turn ignition on and jumper a wire to GND(back probe) at terminal 2 of the ECM connector(CCV valve should click).
6. Blow air into hose and verify air does not escape.
7. Repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to ensure CCV reliability.
8. Is CCV working properly?
YES
? Go to "Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Inspection" procedure.
NO
? Check for cracks or damage in hose connecting CCV and canister. Repair or replace as necessary.
? If OK, replace CCV. If CCV was stuck closed, inspect all lines and canister for liquid fuel. Replace any contaminated components and blow out lines and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Inspection
1. Start engine and install scan tool.
2. Monitor "FUEL TANK PRESSURE" parameter on the current data list with depressing increasing engine speed.
Specification : Signal value will vary between -2mmHg to 2 mmHg depending on variation in engine speed.
A. Approx. 0~2 mmHg(2.5V) at Ig. On
B. Approx. 0 mmHg at 1400rpm .
C. Approx. -2 mmHg at 4000rpm.

3. Is signal value within specification?
YES
? Go to "PCSV to Canister Line Inspection" procedure.
NO
? Check for cracks or damage in hose connecting canister and fuel pump. Repair or replace as necessary.
? Check for open or short in FTPS harness. Repair as necessary.
If OK, test with a new FTPS and check for proper operation. If problem is corrected, replace FTPS and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
PCSV to Canister Line Inspection
1. Check for leakage in hose.
(1) Disconnect the hose leading from the canister to the PCSV at canister.
(2) Using a vacuum pump, apply specified vacuum[Approx. 10cmHg(4 inHg)] to the manifold side of the valve and verify PCSV holds vacuum.
(3) Monitor vacuum pressure for 1 minute. After 1 minute, pressure should not drop more than 2cmHg(0.8 inHg).
(4) Is pressure within specification?
YES
? Go to "2. Check for leakage in canister" procedure.
NO
? Check for cracks or damage in hose connecting PCSV and canister. Repair or replace as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.

2. Check for leakage in canister.


Thoroughly check all fuel vapor hoses and hose clamps between:
1. Canister and fuel tank.
2. Canister and CCV.
3. Canister and PCSV.

If NG, replace hose or clamps as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
If OK, go to next step as below.
(1) Disconnect hose clamps and remove canister assembly .
(2) Block the hose of between:
A. Canister and fuel filler neck.
B. Canister and CCV.
C. Canister and PCSV.

(3) Apply maximum of 10cmHg(4 inHg) pressure through fuel tank port from canister.
(4) With system sealed and pressurized, check for leaks.
(5) Were any leak(s) found?
YES
? Repair or replace leaking system component(s) and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
NO
? Go to "Fuel Tank Line Inspection" procedure.

Fuel Tank Line Inspection
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure and remove the fuel tank.


Before removing the fuel tank, make sure the fuel hoses are not leaking.

2. Block all of the following outlets:
(1) Fuel lines.
(2) Fuel filler neck.

3. Apply maximum of 10cmHg(4 inHg) pressure to the EVAP. hose at the fuel tank. Then, pinch the EVAP. hose to retain the pressure.
4. Check the suspect area for leaks with a soap solution.
5. Were any leak(s) found?
YES
? Repair or replace leaking system component(s) and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.
NO
? Check for poor connection between ECM and component: backed out terminal, improper mating, broken locks or poor terminal to wire connection. Repair as necessary and go to "Verification of Vehicle Repair" procedure.

Jun 30, 2011 | 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Heater stoped blowing out hot air


Your problem can be caused by a bad thermostat, bad heater control valve, a heater door that's not opening or a clogged heater core. If the thermostat is good, check your heater hoses when the heat is on. Both should be hot; if one isn't there is a vacuum operated device inline with one of the hoses (heater control valve) make sure the vacuum line is connected to it. Sometimes you can manually force the valve to move; if you can do it and see if the 2 hoses get hot as a result. If they do, change the valve. The heater door is inside the vehicle and it too is usually vacuum controlled and often somewhat involved to service. I'm not sure of the exact configuration of your heater core but they too can become very involved to replace. More than likely the heater core isn't clogged and there's a very good chance you just have a sticking heater control valve.

Jun 23, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet Impala

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