Question about 2005 Chevrolet Uplander

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Steering Column Slip

I own a 2007 Chevy Uplander and when I turn going right around a bend if feels like the steering column is slipping inside. Not the steering column itself.

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Sounds like the vehicle needs to be serviced by a dealer. is it under 36000 miles? factory warranty runs 3 years or 36K whichever comes first. check with your local dealer or the NHTSA for related recalls or TSBs

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

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2003 chevy steering colum has bumping sound @feeling.whitch shaft needs replaced. the upper or lower.


Not sure what type of Chevrolet you have, but a lot of pickups in that year had trouble with the intermediate shaft (Between the column, and the steering gear) It is a type of 'slip joint' that allows movement between the cab, and the frame, it has a nylon insert that wears out over time. The new one has a larger shaft, looks longer lasting. Pretty easy to replace too. - Seems a few full size Chevy vehicles used this shaft. You can actually feel it if you have someone move the steering back and fourth while you put your hand on the shaft.

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I recently got a automatic 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500. Right away I had to get a new steering column. It has always been a little difficult to shift (pulling it down from park to reverse, drive etc). To


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I want to know if it is dangerous to drive with a squeeky clock spring in my van


Yes its risky. Dont drive with that noise from clock spring.Its indication of its failure.
I believe this is the "clockspring" -- the electrical cable inside the steering column that connects your steering-wheel-mounted electrical controls to the rest of the car. ("Controls" used be just the horn.) The cable wraps around the steering column so it can turn with the steering wheel. Sometimes it starts to rub and squeak.

For more troubleshooting on steering Squeak issues and steering column problems,click the link below and follow the troubleshooting details:-----
http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/10/steering-squeaks.html
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These details will help.
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1 Answer

Occasional bumping feeling in the steering column


I can think of one of two things:
Make sure your power steering fluid is full. My Bonneville was low, and it did some weird stuff.

But more likely it's your intermediate shaft. This shaft looks like a mini drive shaft with two miniture u-joints. It's located at the end of the steering column and passes thru the firwall. It's about 12 inches long. It has a slip spline that starts to not-slip, and you will feel a light thump in the steering wheel when turning. Sometimes thumps a little, sometimes alot.

There are several articles at the forum at: http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums

I decided to just pull my steering column on my 2002 Impala and lubricate the spline with regular grease.

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Chevy cobalt noise knocking in front end when you turn the steering wheel from left to right. Also knocking noise over bumps.


Hello and welcome. this noise is normally caused by a noisey steering I-shaft. there is a steering shaft that goes in between the steering column and the steering gear. this shaft has a slip joint that becomes noisey. all you need to do is lube the i-shaft with some special lube and you will be good to go

Sep 30, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

1 Answer

My steering wheel column wigls at the tilt part how do i fix it


    If your third gen is NOT air bag equipped, just follow the blue NUMBERED steps only!
    If you have a 90-92 F-Body equipped with an air bag, skip steps 1 and 2 and go to step A in red letters just below step 2!
  1. Remove steering wheel horn button and assocated wiring.
  2. Remove steering wheel nut clip and nut then using a steering wheel puller, pull off the steering wheel.
    1. Disconnect battery
    2. Remove both lower under dash panels.
    3. Remove SIR (airbag) fuse from fuse panel. (this is overkill since you disconnected the battery but gm recommends it)
    4. Disconect the big yellow wire with the yellow SIR tag going to the steering column. (there will be a saftey clip you have to remove before unplugging the connector)
    5. Disconnect the smaller 2 connector wire that is right beside the yellow SIR connector. (this usually has a orange cover around the wires on the steering column side)
    6. Remove the airbag from the column by unscrewing the 4 torx screws on the back side of the steering wheel. (these screws will not come out of the wheel since they have retaining devices on them. Also back these screws off a little at a time simultaneously or you will put the airbag in a bind.)
    7. Disconnect SIR connector on the airbag at the steering column (make sure to remove the blue saftey clip first)
    8. Set airbag aside. (carry it with the finished side facing away from you and place on a smooth surface face up.)
    9. Remove steering wheel with common steering wheel puller.
    10. Once steering wheel is removed you will see the SIR sensor underneath. Remove this by using lock ring pliers to remove the retainer)
    11. Slide the SIR sensor out (the wire will pull out enough to clear the column and set aside but still be connected to the column)
      From this point you will remove the lockplate at step 3 below (in blue letters). Things should be pretty much exactly the same.

  3. Remove the lock plate cover
  4. Remove lock plate with lock plate depressing tool (remove C-clip when lock plate is depressed
  5. Remove the loose parts (i'm not sure what they're called but they just slip off)
  6. Remove the hazard light button.
  7. Remove 3 phillips screws that hold the turn signal mechanical switches (you may have to flip the turn signal to the left to get to the bottom screw.)
  8. Remove the vanity plate under neath the dash to get to the wiring at the base of the steering column (this is above the driver's feet)
  9. Pull on the turn signal wires to get some slack and pull it over the middle spindle thing.
  10. Remove the ignition cylinder hold down pin (it's smaller than a t-10 torx, not sure what number) and pull the ignition cylinder out.
  11. Remove 3 torx bolts (I think #15 or 20) Be careful not to drop any of these bolts or screws into the steering column.. they're hard to get back out..
  12. Unscrew the tilt steering lever
  13. Remove the steering column collar. This is kinda tricky and you gotta pull this over that center spindle. Takes some stretching of the wires to get it to pull over it but it's do-able.
  14. Now there's a circular thing under the spindle, using a big philips screw driver, push it down and turn it. Careful cause there's a spring under it. release the spring and remove it.
  15. Now you need a tilt steering pin remover. These things are hard to find.. I know the MAC man and the Snap-on man have them and those are the only two I know of that have them. (I borrowed a snap-on one from a mechanic at a shop I used to work at. You can use a screw and thread it and then pull on it with pliers but that's a pain in the ****.. I've heard one guy use a dent puller and it worked fine.
  16. When you pull the pins out the tilt head will move and you should be able to pull it out towards you some. (you might have to put the tilt steering lever back in to release the cogs inside the column)
  17. There are four inverse torx (size E8) bolts in there. Just tighten the heck out of them.. they'll stay.. Don't take them out cause there's a plate on the other end. If you pull out the bolt to loctite it, the plate will fall off and you'll have to pull the whole column to get the plate back in. If you've got the steering column out of the car, then I guess this isn't an issue but there isn't a need. My column has stayed tight for a year now.

Installation:
Once they're tightened up, installation is in reverse order. Getting the tilt part of the column back on is kind of tricky too but with that spring out (step 14), it's not too bad.. I did it with the spring still installed.. Be careful when you put the collar back on, you don't want to bend the piece that sits on the left side of the column that's attached to the ignition cylinder. if you bend it, you may not be able to turn the key or the car may not statr when the column is put together. If it does get bent or look bent, you can bend it back by hand.
When you're putting the high beam linkage back on, make sure that the end metal rod fits into the switch under the steering column and then put grease on the steering column piece to hold it in place as you put the collar back on. then it's just bolts and screws and you're set.
It took me 2 tries to get it right.. First time, I didn't tighten the 4 bolts down tight enough and it got lose again quick. You might also want to loctite the screw that holds the turn signal lever in place. That likes to get loose and then you have to take off the steering wheel and lock plate to tighten it.
If you have any questions, let me know..

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1 Answer

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Chevy Uplander 2007 Steering column noise


you need to take this vehicle to a gm dealer right away sounds like a rod thats loose in there ?please rate my response thank you very much

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