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Bleeding brakes on my 2002 Suzuki xl7

When I changed my brake caliper on left front and bleed. My brakes my pedal still feels soft do need to do all of them?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: no brakes after changing brake caliper & bleeding system

Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER SOFT BRAKE PEDAL AIR IN LINES

I am a hydraulic technician and I can tell you that air is a killer in the hydraulic system.

Start from the rear and work your way forward. I f you are using the two person method, make sure the second person keeps the master cylinder full. If the fluid level dropped anywhere in between pressing and releasing the brakes....you have a lot of air in the system.

Make sure you are tightening the bleed valve when the brake pedal is full pressed.

Remeber...start from the rear brakes first, then do the front.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 139 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding brakes

always bleed front driver side first, front right,left back
right back.
make sure you always have oil in the master

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: having trouble bleeding brakes on my ford f150 4x4

1 Siphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood.
2 Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system).

3 Start with the brake farthest from the Master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder.

4 Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard.
5 Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferrably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately!
6 Go to step #4 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder every time and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid.

7 Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #4 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles.
8 Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Then the drivers side and the same procedure.
9 When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
10 Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.
Note: if you assistant releases the brake pedal before you can close the bleeder valve then air will be introduced into the brake lines. This is no good! Before you start tell your assistant you will tell him/her PUMP, HOLD DOWN, RELEASE commands.

That's it, you're done. Congratulate yourself on saving some cash instead of handing it over to a mechanic.

Posted on May 13, 2009

junmag
  • 175 Answers

SOURCE: Rear brakes wont bleed. Sucks fluid in when brakes applied. Has ABS.

try this. open the two bleeder screw at the rear calipers. leave it open untill the fluid drips generously. close the bleeder. try the brakes. if it works bleed it the nornal way. note: make sure you dont run out of fluid in the master cylinder

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

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1 Answer

I have replaced 3 disc brake calipers on my 2001 pt cruiser. after bleeding all 4 brakes 3 times, I started the car and brake pedal goes to floor. is my brake booster shot?


Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

Jan 24, 2016 | 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Replacing caliper on 2002 dodge neon


The first thing is to make sure the caliper piston is all the way in, the caliper then slides over the brake pads and bolts on, make sure you have the correct caliper on the right side, the way to know this is when caliper is on the little bleeder screw should be on the top, if it is on the bottom then wrong caliper, try the other one,

After caliper is on you will then need to bleed the brake system,
This all depends on what happened, if the brake fluid did not all leak out and caliper was just bad then before removing brake hose off old caliper pinch rubber brake line with a pair of needle nose grips or there is a line crip tool that crips hose to avoid fluid from leaking out. this makes bleeding easier , other wise you will need to make sure fluid is full and start at the right rear wheel bleeding and move to left rear then right frt and last left front, you will need to keep an eye on the level of brake fluid and add as need to keep it from going empty,
you will need some one to pump and hold brake while you bleed them, pump pedal three times and hold down while you open bleeder screw, this is to be done to every wheel about four to five time to make sure all air is out . good day. note if pedal feels low bleed again wont hurt anything just a little more fluid lost.

Aug 03, 2012 | 2002 Dodge Neon

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I replaced front and back brakes on my 1996 1500 Chev Suburban. Bled the brakes starting at the farthest line. The pedal is soft and travels too far. Does not seem to stop very good. What is the...


it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.

Apr 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

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1 Answer

I replaced the drivers side rear caliper and brakes feel soft and slowly go to close to floor when pressed. Bled caliper several times but pedal still doesnt feel right. There doesnt seem to be any more...


Check line on caliper you replaced it may not be tight enough and letting air into system.if this is not your problem rebleed brakes do not pump brake pedal while bleeding brakes. if you are not aware of how to properly bleed brakes email me at ken17402@msn.com and I will fill you in.

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3 Answers

2001 kia sportage soft brake pedel still doing a complete brake job same as before changing the calipers/pads/ shoes /master cylinder /brake cylinders rear/ bleeding comp. system ? ANY HELP .yet the low...


hi from the uk have had this problem on a customers car b4 who had replaced frot calipers and pads and pedal went to floor on inspection of caliper i found that the steel spring clip that fits into two holes in the front face of caliper and must also locate behind the caliper carrierbehind two lugs was fitted incorrectly it had been fitted behind the outer pad resulting in when brake pedal off ?the caliper being floating type as it is known because it is fixed by two screw pins/bolts and moves on these pins/bolts as pads wear ? what happens is the spring fitted wrongly ? actually pushes against the outer pad and as a result the caliper piston is pushed back into its cylinder slightly as it moves on the locating pins/bolts resulting in pedal going to floor on 1st application but if pumped ? some brake pedal force is felt but is lost again when pedal released ? so try this ? remove the steel clips from both front calipers that retain caliper to carriers then press brake/pump pedal ? if as suggested above works? your pedal should pump up and remain ok when you release and still be firm when re applied ? all above is what i found on ford ford but many other models use similar calipers and spring locating recheck how this spring should locate hope this helps ? good luck

Mar 19, 2010 | 2001 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Driver side brake not bleeding properly after bleeding left side and changing rotors, calipers, and pads?


first of all make sure master cylinder is full of brake fluid.then you crank car leave foot off brake pedal. watch abs light on dash it should turn off in 10 seconds if not have car towed to garage or dealer. they have to use a scanner to scan the abs brakes if abs light turn off in 3 seconds. then starting bleeding from master bleed the lower brake line fitting at the proportional valve followed by the upper brake line fitting. keep eye on brake fluid in mastercylinder dont let run dry.next prime the abs hydralic modulator.connect the bleeder hose to the rear bleeder valve on the modulator.place the other end into a container partially filled with cleab brake fluid.make sure the end of the hose is submerged.open the bleeder valve slowly about 1/2 to 3/4 turn have an assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it in the depressed position. when the flow of fluid ceases close the bleeder valve.repeat process until no air bubbles are present in the fluid.then tighten the bleed valve securely. start bleeding brakes. your bleeding sequence is right rear - left front - left rear - right front.WARNING IF ALL FAILS YOUR BRAKES DONT FEEL SOLID AND FEEL VERY SPONGY.DONT DRIVE CAR. HAVE IT TOWED TO DEALERSHIP.THEY WILL HAVE TO PRESSURE BLEED YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM.

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1 Answer

How do you bleed the abs unit on a 1997 chevrolet truck


start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.

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2 Answers

I just replaced my front rotors, pads, and calipers on a 98 olds achieva. After doing this I bled the the front brakes but am now experiencing a very soft pedal. I am wondering if something else could be...


Because of the ABS system if you press the brake pedal with too much pressure then it will give you the illusion of a soft pedal. Does it feel like a soft pedal when the vehical is in motion and you then press on the brake pedal (normal)? The other thing is if your pads and/or caliper were frozen, when you changed them out. The brakes are not going to feel or brake exactly the same, after the repair. But you are there, if the pedal is real low or goes to the floor then there is still air in the system or for some reason, your master cylinder is defective.

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