I had the check engine light come on and then the car stalled. I had the CAM sensor replaced, but now the car is idling oddly ( a little rough) then the temperature light came on. And now there is no heat.
The car is not stalling anymore, but I'm worried that it will start doing it again.
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Re: Temperature light comes on
You say you have no heat even after vech has warmed up by the gauge. you may have a themostat that has stuck open and this will cause a ilde problem also since the ecm looks at temp check stat operation change if you have any doubth at all . kdc744
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If the sensor detects a problem, it sends a trouble code to the ECM and your "check engine" light will come on. IMO, your symptom sounds like "cold engine" issue. Myself, our 98 Toyota Rav4 will idle rough and engine stalls when put in drive, but the problem goes away when temperature shows the engine had warmed up to operating temperature. FYI the temperature sensor monitors the radiator coolant temperature. Normal engine temperature is when coolant reaches 120 degree fahrenheit. At around 130 to 140 degrees fahrenheit, the coolant thermostat opens to let radiator coolant flow from "bypass" mode to "enter radiator" mode. If it takes longer than 10 minutes for your engine to warm up, its possible the coolant thermostat is stuck in open "enter radiator" mode. When thermostat is close, coolant radiator bypass the radiator to speed up engine warm up, but if its stuck in open, it will take longer to warm up the engine. Another factor is ambient temperature. If its cold below 50 fahrenheit, it will take longer to warm up the engine.
Although your temperature gauge may show that it works, some models have a second temperature sensor for the engine management system. That second sensor provides info which sets curb idle and timing advance. The "Cold start" feature is a part of this. The hic-cup is something of a bucking symptom as the engine controls toggle between hot and cold run settings repeatedly as water temperature is not stable. In the past, I found several 1984 engines having defective thermostats which are tied into "Step-up" solenoids for the curb idle. What happens is idle speed is suppose to drop when the engine is hot. When someone adjusts the curb idle while the engine is on the "cold setting", the setting(rpm) will be too low once the engine has heated up and the part drops to a hot setting. So to clearly define your problem, you have 2 stemming from the same defects. The "in motion" problem is caused by timing changes based on temperature and the "idle" problem is caused by improper adjustment of the curb idle solenoid because of unstable operating temperature. What you want to do is change your thermostat. This will give you a stable temperature. Then let the engine heat up and you should notice a "click" and the engine should idle down. It may stall. Then turn the idle rpm up until the engine will not stall. The hic-cups should disappear once the operating temp is reached. If you still have problems then look for the water temperature sensors before replacing expensive parts.
The Cam sensor usually senses the position of the timing belt or timing chain gear and tells the computer when #1 cylinder is at top dead center. In other words, when #1 cylinder comes up. Crank sensor tells the computer when to fire the spark plugs in the rest of the cylinders. In other words, as the crank shaft goes around it tells the computer when each piston comes up so it can fire it's spark plug
The Ford Escort ZX2, the 2.0 liter is a interference engine,The valve and the piston kissed each other as they met with a broken timing belt,Just to let you know a cam position sensor does not create rough idle, it can stall the engine at a stop sign,but the solution is a valve job, and who ever put the timing belt on after the job should have done a cylinder effeciency test.
A stalling problem doesn't have to turn on the check engine light . Try some basic thing's like cleaning the throttle plate (body) air passages for the IAC - idle air control valve . There are videos on youtube , also check for a vacuum leak !
You say the engine service light cam back on. Was it on before? Did you have the computer scanned to find out what the light was for? Changing the thermostat and coolant wouldn't have anything to do with the engine dying. What sensor did you replace. When you turn on the defroster, the air conditioner also comes on. Engine idle speed is supposed to increase when the a/c is on so the engine wont stall. If the computer is not increasing the idle speed,that may be the reason the engine is stalling. Need to get those trouble codes.
Check the connection to the cam sensor (the ECU cannot see any signal from it). If the electrical connection looks clean and good check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. If the connection and the wiring are deemed good then remove the cam sensor itself and inspect it. These things become gradually cooked by engine temperature cycles over the years and eventually give up, Sometimes the casing shows signs of cracking Replace the cam sensor ans this should sort the problem...and it is not that expensive or difficult to do.
Often when the battery is disconnected or replaced the computer will lose it's learned idle settings. You could try letting the engine idle in park until the engine temperature comes up to normal and leave it like that for a few minutes, then put the Air con on and let it idle again for a few minutes, then switch the air con off and put it into drive. If it does not stall, let it idle in drive for 2 minutes or so, and then do the same with the Air con on. This should relearn the base idle settings and stop it from stalling on you. Before you carry out this procedure you should make sure that when you replaced the battery you didn't remove any other plugs or knocked anything that may be causing the fault. If you try this procedure and it still stall when you select drive, you will need to get a Mechanic to check the vehicle over.