Question about Cars & Trucks
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To my knowledge a 2003 Toyota Camry uses a dual filament halogen bulb, either by Osram, Philips or Sylavania. If on the dashboard, the blue indicator lits when the switch is moved to bright or the passlight is engaged but no headlight, then it could jut be busted bulb (or part of it since you still have driving/low beam). In some cases, it could be the relay that supplies power direct to the bulb. At other times, it could be fuse(s) assigned to high beam. At certain instances, it could be also a loose, corroded or burned connector.
Corrective measure for your concern would be to check the 2 bulbs. This is performed by removing the rear covering (rubber or plastic cap) of the headlight assembly from the rear. The bulbs are held in place by a spring clip that needs to be unlatched from the base/holder. Carefully remove the bulb taking care not to touch the glass envelope. The filaments would be readily visible and cut/breaks would be apparent. If determined that one of the filaments (high beam) is open, replace the bulb(s).
If the bulbs prove to be OK, you need to work yourself backwards tracing the wiring harness. After the bulb, check the 3 prong connector for any corrosion or scorching/burnt marks; clean as maybe required. Next to check would be the relay that provides the +12VDC and then the fuse.
I doubt if the dashboard or steering wheel components involve with headlights may be at fault.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jun 02, 2008
SOURCE: LOW BEAM LIGHTS
Hi Rich Million,
Check the bulbs for the low beam problem and if they're ok, check the fuses under the bonnet (hood) which are found in the fuse box. If you've already checked those, go to the fuse box inside the vehicle.
Still no luck....remember that there are fuses and relays inside the cabin behind the kick panel.....You may find that there is a problem with the main fuse box.....If you drive over rough terrain, check the connections under the main fuse box....even if your roads are all smooth, it's still worth checking.....
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
When dealing with wiring on a vehicle, it can go from something real simple, to something real complicated, in a hurry!
1.Checked to make sure the headlights have high beam? Bulbs are good in that respect? Not trying to insult your intelligence, but sometimes it's the simple things we overlook. Again, not trying to sound 'Uppity', but do you have access to a type of jumper wire, that has a needle type of tip on both ends? This way you can stick the needle tip, into the wire that has 'juice' for the low beam side of the headlight, and touch the high beam side. See if the high beam comes on.
2.Sometimes it's as simple as a bad ground. There is a wire, or wires, that come out of the headlight wire loom, and have a rounded metal terminal end. A machine screw, goes through the hole in this rounded metal terminal end, and fastens it to the metal sheet metal of the body.
The metal frame of a vehicle, and the metal sheet metal, is the ground for a vehicle.
A lot of times, where this rounded metal terminal end is fastened to the sheet metal, (Or frame), rust can develop between them. Between the metal terminal end, and the sheet metal. This makes a bad contact for grounding.
There is enough of a ground source for low beam headlights, but not enough for the additional draw of the high beams.
3.In the headlight wire loom, there is a Fusible Link. This looks like a 1, or 2, or 3 inch large bump in the wire. This fusible link is designed to melt inside, and break contact, should it need to. Sometimes it's readily apparent when you view this fusible link. It will have the plastic covering melted on one side, or partially around. Sometimes it's not so obvious. (Isn't wiring fun(?)
You just have to use the probes, (Needle tip is real nice here), on a multimeter, (Set to DC voltage, and the 50 volt scale), and track from battery to headlight switch, to headlights.
4.Lastly, it may be the headlight switch itself.
Posted on May 06, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
The ability of the control modules to communicate through the serial data circuit
The identification of any stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and their status
The use of the Diagnostic System Check will identify the correct procedure for diagnosing the system and where the procedure is located.
Mar 15, 2015 | 2002 Buick LeSabre
May 08, 2011 | 2005 Ford Focus
Apr 07, 2010 | 2001 Ford Focus
Mar 28, 2010 | 1993 Geo Metro
Mar 03, 2010 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta
Jan 27, 2010 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab
Sep 26, 2009 | 2001 Ford Focus
Jan 13, 2009 | 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
61 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!