I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a cold weather oil leak at the filter housing. It is actually where the filter housing connects to the block (6 cyl). After the motor warms leak self seals and appears to be OK. Only occurs when engine block is cold.
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Hello Debra Russ, U may locate oil filter 4 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 way's.
1.) Open 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Glove Box, remove the 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee owners Manual from glove box. Open owners manual to index page, locate oil filter page.
2.) Secure 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee from moving fowards or backwards by blocking wheels in front and back which will NOT allow movement of said 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Using a small person of average build, average height, average weight, average intelligence, average physical appearance, move average said person with said average features of above near the 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee, instruct said person to physically crawl under vehicle while laying on said person backside, (**** scraping on average dirty ground or average dirty filthy oil filled garage floor filled with oil filled kitty litter. Hand said average person an average shop light with an average wallmart brand soft white light bulb, light bulb will bo out very soon so move to next step ASAP. view engine while calling out all massive oil leaks INCLUDING a dirty oil caked oil filter.
Congradulations! You found it when a black oil droplet drips from the oil filter into said average oil filled hair of said average person! (insert smiles here) FASTESTNASCAR
The oil filter housing and the timing cover can all be worked on with engine in car. For the rear engine seal (rear main seal), the transfer case and transmission will have to be removed to access the seal. Most of the time, the oil pan can be removed without raising the engine. Check your clearance under there for anything obstructing removal. (I loaned out my Jeep manual and never got it back!) On some cars, engine needs to be raised about 4 inches for pan to clear the oil pickup tube. Don't know about your Jeep.
Unless you live in an extremely cold climate (sub or close to sub zero) I'd recommend using at least a 10w 40 oil. The first number indicates how well the oil pours (flows) at freezing, the second is how well it protects at operating temperature. Your other option is to use a 10W 40 synthetic which actually flows and protects far beyond the #'s on the container on both ends of the scale. One reason some manufacturers have specified a lower first number is because they feel that will keep the piston rings free. In reality, any good oil will do that (non-paraffin base) and any of the synthetics will do it better. I live in an area where we get both very cold weather and also some very hot weather. I use a 20w 50 synthetic and have never had an oil related problem (my engines regularly go over 350K and vehicles are replaced for other non engine related reasons such as body rust)
remove gearbox from engine and then flywheel and then change crankshaft oil seal, not a job for the faint hearted. Could the oil be dripping down from the camshaft cover, this is more common and easier to sort
It is very hard to turn, but it will come loose, a cut off allen wrench attached to a pipe works great, as there is no clearance to do it any other way. Have at it cause the allen bolt is pretty hefty.
I'd suggest using a good brand of synthetic oil (which was actually developed a really long time ago for the armed forces for use in polar reigions) Most flushes loosen too much material all at once, causing blockage of the oil pickup screen. You can get a bit more cleaning and lubrication protection by adding a bit of marvel oil to the synthetic. Change just the filter (and lost oil) about every 1500 miles, till the problem subsides.