Question about 1994 Jaguar XJ6

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Fuel filter The car will run on tick over but when you require to move forward or backwards the engine will stop, a new rotary arm has been fitted due to spark not getting to the spark plugs, the engine will now run and have taken the car for a short run, but now the car will not start first time but when it does it will idle for about 5 minutes then stop.I have been adsvised to install a new fuel filter to my Jaguar 4.0 sport 1994- can you advise how to carry out this task.?

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Hi Russell

I do not think the fuel filter is the problem, but to renew it, you will find it located below the car, just in front, and in from the L/H rear wheel.
It is easy to replace, and you can undo the connections, and release the fixing cover, and slide it out.
Have you checked your petrol filler cap drain tube for blockage, and your petrol cap sealing rubber for splits ?
This is the usual way water gets in the fuel system.

I suspect possibly, you have a problem with your crank sensor, they do give lots of problems, and would tie in with your problem.

Give me some feed back as to what you think.

Good Luck !

P.S.Don´t forget to give me a FixYa rating, Please !

John.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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Why wont my car start 2000 monte carlo slx


It could either be a failed sensor such as the crankshaft or camshaft sensor, even though there are no error codes. It may even be a fuel shut-off sensor or EGR valve. get a mobile mechanic to look at it.


It could be caused by a sensor failure, yes, but the symptoms are also classic signs of :
1. A partial vacuum in the fuel tank
2. Blocked fuel filter
3. A failing fuel pump.

Partial Vacuum
Fuel tanks are vented to atmosphere. Air should be able to get into the tank. To achieve this the tank has a small tube which probably appears somewhere underneath the car in the vicinity of one of the rear wheels, or the fuel filler cap itself has a small vent hole in it.

If that vent tube becomes blocked by debris thrown up by the wheels or the vent in the filler cap becomes blocked, a partial vacuum builds up inside the tank. As the fuel level drops the vacuum 'holds it up' and restricts fuel flow to the engine.

A quick check is, when the car begins to splutter and die, is to quickly remove the fuel cap. If you hear air rushing into the tank you know that there was a partial vacuum inside.

Fuel Filter
A blocked fuel filter causes the same symptoms. However, you won't hear air rushing into the fuel tank when the filler cap is removed. There's no way of dealing with a fuel filter other than by replacing it with a new one.

A lot of fuel filter problems are caused by corrosion - that's corrosion from the tank and filler pipe itself. It blocks the fuel supply. It mainly applies to older cars but as the fuel filter is a service item it makes sense to change it every couple of years anyway.

Failing Fuel Pump

The most classic symptom of all.
In tank fuel pump -it lifts the fuel

The way to test a fuel pump is by disconnecting the fuel line that runs into the engine bay. Get somebody to turn the ignition on for you - and fuel should literally spurt out. Not trickle or dribble .. it should spurt out.

inline fuel pump pushes the fuel. Usually this type of pump is fitted underneath the vehicle or in the engine compartment

However, herein lies a problem. Fuel pumps that are nearing the end of their lifespan still work - it's those erratic moments when they stop pumping your car splutters and slows down. An erratic, failing fuel pump can still throw fuel out of a disconnected fuel line. You're no further forward.

Other than pressure testing the fuel supply a workshop can not do much else that you can not do. They certainly won't remove the fuel pump from the tank and test it. They would simply replace it. You would have to do the same if you suspected the fuel pump was failing and causing the problems.

Usually, the fuel pump is situated in the fuel tank. Access is via an inspection cover that is screwed to the top and accessible from inside the car (usually).
Some vehicles have two fuel pumps. There is the pump in the tank which lifts the fuel into the fuel line. The second fuel pump - either fitted underneath the vehicle or in the engine bay - pushes the fuel up to the injectors.
The in-tank fuel pump is accessed from within the vehicle
In such twin-fuel pump systems it is usually the in-tank lifter pump that fails, simply because it is the one that does the hard work.


Mechanical Fuel Pump
There's still a lot of mechanical fuel pumps around,admittedly on older vehicles. They're bolted onto the side of the engine block and driven by a cam - the arm on the fuel pump is spring loaded. The cam causes the arm to operate, moving a diaphragm inside the pump which shoves fuel up to the engine.

The two main faults associated with the mechanical fuel pump: the diaphragm splits and perishes due to age. It becomes incapable of pumping fuel (replacement diaphragms are still available).

That spring loaded arm wears a groove in the cam and it- the arm - no longer has the 'reach' and full range of movement. A get-you-home fix is to remove the gasket so that the arm can reach further into the block. And that's all it is - a get you home fix.

It's actually easier to fit and adapt an electric fuel pump than it is to replace the worn cam that drives the mechanical fuel pump's arm.

Feb 12, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi can some one tell me why after fitting new spark plug motor stopped after about 10 minutes of use and plug required cleaning before restart


Dear
As you mentioned the plug required cleaning, indicates the plug gets carbon due to un burnt oil or dirty. Pl. check fuel filter air filter for clean. If the plug gets oily after 10 minutes it may be due to the oil ring of the piston of that particular cylinder. If its so it has to be restored at workshop.

Thanks.

Feb 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to install a 1995 e320 wagon fuel filter


First thing to do is to locate the fuel filter, most likely down near the tank.
Second thing to do if it is a fuel injected engine is to open the bonnet and find the main fuse box. Remove the Fuel pump relay, or fuse. This will prevent the fuel pump from working. Now start your engine and run it until it stalls out. Shut off the engine, go to the fuel filter and remove the clamps or spring clips attaching it to the fuel line.
Now take the filter off and replace it with a new one, make sure you snug up all the connections. Now go back to the front and replace that relay or fuse. Turn the key until the and wait until all the dash lights have gone out or stopped flashing. Wind over the engine until it catches and runs. Put the hand brake on and with the vehicle in neutral if a manual or in park if auto.
Check the filter for leaks if leaking turn it off and tighten the clamps, try not to refit old clamps or spring clips always try to fit new ones and new fuel hose if possible. Make sure if you fit new fuel hose you fit Fuel injection hose, not standard fuel hose. As the standard fuel hose will split due to the pressure.

Viola your done. Drive and check for abborations.

Sep 11, 2011 | Mercedes-Benz E320 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Shakes and misses while accelerating , has a tick to the engine , i already replaced the spark plugs and wires, 1 new coil pack, air filter, fuel filter , new rear rocker arm and push rod. and oil change


Sounds like you still have a problem where the ticking is coming from. You may have to run a compression test on that cylinder you put the rocker arm on, are that side of the motor that is ticking. Could be the cam lobe wore down and need a camshaft.

Mar 09, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

How to change a fuel filter on a 1994 mercury sable


this is for a 3.8 GS the fuel filter is located near the right rear tire


RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE

  1. open the trunk. on the driver side pull back the carpet and you find the fuel cut switch. take your open hand and slap the side of the switch. it should pop up. now get in the car ans start it and run it till it stops. when it dies try to start once more.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the push connect fittings at both ends of the fuel filter. This is accomplished by removing the hairpin clips from the fittings. Remove the hairpin clips by first bending, and then breaking the shipping tabs on the clips. Spread the 2 clip legs approximately 1 / 8 in. (3mm) to disengage the body and push the legs into the fitting. Gently pull on the triangular end of the clip and work it clear of the fitting.
  3. Remove the filter from the mounting bracket by loosening the worm gear mounting clamp enough to allow the filter to pass through
  4. detach lines from fuel filter. move small bucket or whatever to catch what left in lines ( filter will still have gas in it)
  5. Install the new filter in the mounting bracket, ensuring that the flow direction arrow is pointing forward. Locate the fuel filter against the tab at the lower end of the bracket.
  6. Insert a new hairpin clip into any 2 adjacent openings on each push connect fitting, with the triangular portion of the clip pointing away from the fitting opening. Install the clip to fully engage the body of the fitting. This is indicated by the legs of the hairpin clip being locked on the outside of the fitting body. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the ends of the fuel filter, then push the fittings onto the ends of the filter. When the fittings are engaged, a definite click will be heard. Pull on the fittings to ensure that they are fully engaged.
  7. Tighten the worm gear mounting clamp to 15-25 inch lbs. (1.7-2.8 Nm)
  8. open the trunk again and push the button on the fuel switch down and reconnect the battery and start the engine and check for leaks


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Dec 17, 2010 | 1994 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Fuel not pasing to engine


There is not much to go on here from your description but I will give you the basics on where to start, Check the fuse to the fuel pump, check the fuel filter, if your not getting fuel to the engine it has to be either the pump or the filter. unfortunatly the fuel pump is in the gas tank o checking it is a little more difficult. Have someone turn the key on and get under the car next to the fuel tank and listen to see if you hear any humming noises. the noise should tell you your pump is running or at least trying to run and this will let you know if it is a electrical issue. if the pump is running and still no fuel, change the filter. you can also have someone turn the key on while you have the filter off and see if any gas is coming through the line, if no gas then the pump is not working or bad one of the two. I think too many people forget about this and it is straight forward and a good preventative maintenance. From my experience if it hasn't been changed by 40-50 K get it changed. You're just asking for fuel pump problems. The more restriction there is in the fuel path the harder that pump works to push fuel. It's located just under the driver's seat on the frame rail. You will need a 13mm socket/wrench, and a flat screwdriver to undo the supporting bracket/clamp respectively. A special tool is required on most models to release the fuel line; however, it is relatively cheap and can be obtained at your local parts store. It is used like a quick-disconnect to undo the fuel line.
Once disconnected the new filter is just snapped on the line with ease and the safety clips can be reinstalled and thus the filter remounted. Interestingly, take your old filter and turn it opposite of the fuel flow and empty it in a coffee can. To see just how plugged it was getting, try blowing backwards on the filter and you can see a lot of the sediment come out in the can
The real key to removing the special fittings from the fuel filter
is the technique employed using the special fitting removal tool. Once the fuel pressure has been relieved and the filter mounting bracket and band clamp have been loosened and moved out of the way, proceed as follows:

Remove the lock clips that are placed over the fuel filter tubing and the fittings. They should come off without having to use excessive force. A small screwdriver inserted into the open end of the clip at the fitting end can serve as extra leverage if needed to get the clip off.
Grasp the fuel filter in one hand and one of the fittings in the other. Try gently moving the fitting back and forth while it is still in place. Notice that there is about 1/8" to 3/16" worth of movement. Pull gently until the fitting is all the way back as far as it will move. Clip the special fitting removal tool (the tool should be designed to work with 3/8" fuel lines) over the fuel filter tubing. Now push the fuel line fitting towards the tool as far as it will go. While still holding the fitting in, use your pointer and index fingers on the same hand holding the fitting to pull the fitting removal tool "into" the fitting itself as far as it will go (the tool should "bottom"). Still grasping the fitting and tool together, pull them back in the direction for removal, keeping the tool inserted in the fitting (important). At some point, the tool will stop as it hits the fitting retainer "nub" on the filter tubing. Keep the tool pressed against the retainer nub (use ! ! your other hand now for this) and continue pulling the fitting off of the tubing. It should come off with only a few pounds of force. Repeat the procedure for the other fitting. It is important to push the fitting in towards the filter to engage the fitting removal tool as this relieves the tension on the "fingers" prior to insertion of the tool. If you don't push the fitting all the way towards the filter first, the tool will not release the retainer spring and you won't be able to pull the fittings off. This is the mistake that I made repeatedly the first time I tried changing the filter in my vehicle. Don't use the tool to try and "pull" the fitting off with - it isn't supposed to work that way.

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1 Answer

RX6 2005 won't crank after a short start up to move car out of way and parked.


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1 Answer

Car cannot move forward while engine running


check transmission fluid first.if its low add to get correct level.if transmission fluid look dark smells burnt replace fluid and filter.if car still dont move forward.looks like you have bad worn out forward clutch plates and seals.also bad transmission oil pump.you need a overhaul or new transmission.

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Engine moves after changing spak plugs & wires on 02ChevyTahoe


Well first thing you do is take out the plugs again and regap to 0.25tho(not 60) and it the fitting of the leads If there fitted correctly etc then it sounds like you have pre ign (due to over heating and tomuch fuel ,cause the engine to either keep running OR running Backwards thats called pre- igniton and can stuff your engine..
Let me know how you go Ron

Oct 01, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

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