I am in need of a brake line diagram. A few weeks back I removed the lines due to severe corrosion. However, with the redundant system I am not fully certain of the connections. My Hanes manual provides no diagram.
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If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.
For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.
Tranny cooler lines usually are about 1/2" outside diameter steel or reinforced rubber going to a separate chamber in radiator side or bottom. Always one in and one line out separated by about 10 inches apart. You can follow those lines back to the tranny.
What you need to do is take off the original line. If you check on the Web, you may find some kits for a complete system, but an individual line is often difficult to ship.
There are different size fittings on the ends of brake lines. In some cases, the Universal lines may work, but the end fittings must match your vehicle. This is why taking the old line with you is important.
Some mechanics get coils of brake lines and bend and fit the ends themselves. It takes a few specialized hand tools to accomplish this. They are not terribly expensive, but for 1 line it is not worth it and it takes some skill to properly install the fittings on the line.
Now you have a 14 Year old car, and I can't recall when they stopped all production. But even a later model may be too old for them to stock a Factory replacement part.
A good brake shop would be your best bet. Call ahead and ask if they can make a line to replace what you have. It should not take but a 1/2 hour or so to swap out what you have, then some time to bleed the brakes.
One thing to consider- ALL lines were new at the same time. If one rusts out, there are few reasons for corrosion to be any worse for the failed line than the rest of the lines on your van. The exception would be collision replacements in which some brake lines might be newer than your van.
The cables usually use a groove and hook system where the Emergency brake cables slide into the hook of the fixture on the Caliper. The assembly must be turned almost 90 degrees to slip the fixture into and out of the channel.
Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc
1999 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) . Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120) , front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185) .
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386).
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125) . Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
NOTE: To prevent damage, do not allow disc brake caliper to hang by the front brake hose (2078) .
Position disc brake caliper out of the way.
Remove inner outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate .
Inspect both rotor braking surfaces. Minor scoring or buildup of lining material does not require machining or replacement of front disc brake rotor.
remove the 2 pins, #10 in pic. Usually has a dust cover over pin accessopening. Usually torx haed or hex head bolts (pins).