Question about 2004 Saturn VUE
I replaced pads and rotor, greased caliper pins. Pistons were difficult to compress more difficult than other side. After assembly i pushed and released brakes and this side does not seem to release all the way( I could turn but it was difficult). I loosened bleed and tightened and the caliper freed up and was able to turn rotor by hand as easily as the other side. But the problem repeated when I pushed on the brake pedal and released it again.
Pistons are sticking in the caliper, plain and simple.. sorry to say its time for replacement of the caliper, if not the brake will heat up and prematurely fail or cause you to skid out of control in less than ideal conditions..it is now a safety issue..please replace it..good luck..on rare occaisions if you can take the caliper back off and work the pedal until the pistons fall out, clean them with a wire brush to remove all the built up gunk on the back of them then open the bleeder screw and reinsert each piston and set in place with a c clamp being careful not to mes up the seals..try that also be sure all air is out of the system..good luck again..
Posted on Jan 13, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words. Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
SOURCE: brakes are pulsating in pedal.
Your rear drums are out of round (warped). Eventhough you turned them the problem will not go away because they have hot spots in them that turning can't remove. You need to replace them with new ones to solve this problem. Pulsing pedal is rear brakes and a shimmy in the steering wheel while braking is in the front brakes.. Good luck I hope this helps you out.
Posted on Jul 14, 2011
SOURCE: I put new brakes in
try adjusting the rear brake shoes but.....spin the rear wheels first is u get the feeling of the shoes grabbing then releasing ( the tire gets loose then tight as u rotate it) u will need to have the drums cut on a brake lathe or replaced...when u have this done , then adjust the rear shoes until u get a slight drag on the rear wheels..go pump the brake pedal to seat the shoes if the wheel spins free adjust the shoes more an repeat until they have a slight drag after pumping the brake pedal
Posted on Jul 16, 2011
An ABS module fault resulting in brakes seizing would be quite usual. The ABS can be tested using a Tech2 (Tech 2 ) scanner. The tool is quite expensive. You will need to get the job done at the dealer's place or at a qualified garage. Also, most problems with ABS module are detected by ECM and you get ABS light on the dash. If problem was ABS, at most it could be an ABS modulator valve. The valve can be checked bleeding fluid at valve and checking if caliper releases.
Regarding the problem, check if both brakes on one side are affected. In that case it is worth checking the master cylinder.
If that does not work, you may have a problem in brake lines. A defective brake line, for example because of a restriction at the rear right hand side brake may hold the fluid, resulting in the front brake from same side seizing. The testing job is done cracking one by one the brake lines at caliper or ABS module. Start from rear wheel (it is more distant from master cylinder).
Posted on Aug 27, 2011
SOURCE: Brake pedal goes nearly to
I would go with not bled correctly
The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake
Posted on Sep 16, 2011
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